ZX6R F3 (97) problem

Morning all,

quick question on the my ninja i have put some new down pipes on and have the carbs balanced and between 4-7k it coughs and splutters until the 7k mark where it does the 1 wheeled dance,

I got told that the ninja are know for not wanting anything other than orginal downpipes

does any one know if this is true or not, or any exprience with a similar problem,

cheers for any help

Its not just kwaks that suffer from aftermarket pipes being fitted , from experience its the quality of the pipework in terms of internal shape etc . A session on a rolling road and the carbs rejetted may work as if you've fit a full race system it plays hob with the mixture and runs the engines lean.

A mate of mine had exactly the same thing with some budget shite from e-bay for his Honda

3 sets of pipes from the same bloke before the bike ran proper

Hope this helps
does help mate thanks,

booked in on the rolling road, the garage who supplied and fitted said its an aftermarket thing,
and a dynojet kit would sort it,

spoke to the rolling road guys and they said it was an aftermarket thing and a dyno kit would do nothing,

so im taking it up to see what they can do to refine it,

gutted! it was such a great bike certainly wont be going back to the original garage
People forget that when you start to play with exhausts on bikes, due to the high state of tune, you will get some issues.

If you compound that with a set of race pipes, then you will escalate those problems 10 fold...so flat spots, gurggles, backfires etc are possible.

BUT, the good news is, its dead easy to fix...and you are doing the correct thing....

.....rolling road, dyno kit, maybe new higher flow air filter (K&N/Pipercross) and you should be sorted :)

My CBR 6 runs with full titanium race pipes..£1800 worth..and it ran like a bag of nails before the above work..now its MENTAL...but smooooooooth.
Is it an original can or a race can ??

There may not be enough back pressure if its a race item as a lot of em are straight through with no lumps n bumps to give any semblence of back pressure. The rolling road bods ll know all this anyhoo.

I had 1 as a track bike ;cracking piece of kit just needed more stomp for my fat gut :D
its not meant to be a race system and has an arrow can, which was fine on the original pipes,
I'll try the uprated air filter (as its cheap) and it feels like an over fuel problem so more air might help.

and just hope the rolling road will smooth it out fingers crossed,

Any other advise would be great and ill post back after the rolling road
Carbs you say? Remind me what they are... :p
PE4rocks said:
Carbs you say? Remind me what they are... :p
its was the heart of the bike before electronics took over and made them machines,

not a living breathing feeling machine, just machines :lol:

my car is injected and is the same old every day of the week!!

my bike has life and has its good .... and some times bad days if i dont give it the love and affection it deserves

belive it or not i do even have a bird, dont know why cause i always tell her


spad said:
its not meant to be a race system and has an arrow can, which was fine on the original pipes,
Replacement pipes...what make are they?

I used Micron downpipes on my track bike (ZXR 400)...they had a bigger bore than standard and thus I had to rejet, even though I was using the same end can as before :)

Some pipes come with a balancer pipe (pipe fitted between downpipes) to allow pressure to be equally dissipated...that can make a difference.

Lastly, some say going from steel to stainless or Titanium can also make a difference due to different warm up characteristics...but I find that one hard to see..might have tiny affects though.

The Dyno boys will sort you toot sweet!


I never managed to fit aftermarket full systems on any carb'ed bike without upgrading the airfilter/box, and fitting a dynojet kit set up on a rolling road.

A stage one kit should give you +5% over the standard output, smooth things a bit, and will resolve any fuelling glitches due to either your new parts, or noise/emission dips that were designed in.

As a general rule if you change the pipes or the air filter you need to rejet. You may not realise you need to rejet if the difference is not great but trust me - you do. Chances are that if you have added parts that are supposed to improve performance (as opposed to just look different, in which case all bets are off) you now run lean and need (as a minimum) a bigger main jet. Balancing the carbs is not the same as re-jetting them.
heres the dyno results



quick off the mark today arent we
spad said:

quick off the mark today arent we
Fuel injection does that... :D
Hello Spad,

How's the bike running now?
I had a look at the dyno graph, AFR is really rich between (is that rpm along the bottom? If so -4,000 and 8,000 then it goes too weak at 11,000.
Normally AFR under acceleration (or in Power Enrichment Mode) should stay around 12.5-12.8:1 for best power.
Serious dip in power between 5 & 7,000. Did the guys at the dyno say or do anything about the things mentioned?


Book Reviewer
2/51 said:
..£1800 worth..
My Land Rover cost less than that, and I am pretty sure there is a length of scaffolding pipe welded between the manifold and the first box. I have sometimes wondered if that is why the handbrake never works? And the heater.

Hope this helps?
Well as far as I can see, the dyno has just confirmed your riding experience with a nasty looking dip in power that just shouldnt be there. On its own that is not helpful. The question is what are they proposing to do about it. As has previously been stated it will require, as a minimum, the installation and correct set-up of a dynojet kit. As Alsacien noted, you are probably best off installing a high flow air system first as, although you might be able to get it set up right without one, you will get better power gains with one (and if you get it set up without one and then put one on, you will have to pay to set it up all over again).

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