WWI Group build

offog

LE
It's a six. I have seen this morning a cut away showing the cylinders and the inlet and exhaust valves. What I thought was the fuel inlet must be the oil pipe (long brass one) and the last photos shows the carbs and inlet manifold. Unfortunately some silly bugger put all the labels on the picture in German.

1552037303619.png
 
It's a six. I have seen this morning a cut away showing the cylinders and the inlet and exhaust valves. What I thought was the fuel inlet must be the oil pipe (long brass one) and the last photos shows the carbs and inlet manifold. Unfortunately some silly bugger put all the labels on the picture in German.

View attachment 381381
Remember to get those HT leads in the right order:

 

offog

LE
Getting the right fuel may be a problem too. That has lead down an interesting rabbit hole and one that has not occurred to me before.

This may be of interest to others.
Aviation fuel in WW1
 

PFGEN

GCM
Getting the right fuel may be a problem too. That has lead down an interesting rabbit hole and one that has not occurred to me before.

This may be of interest to others.
Aviation fuel in WW1
That was interesting and I certainly didn't expect to be reading up on WW1 aviation fuels this morning. I can now add it to my list of topics for use with unwanted dinner guests.
 

daz

LE
That was interesting and I certainly didn't expect to be reading up on WW1 aviation fuels this morning. I can now add it to my list of topics for use with unwanted dinner guests.
Bugger that, I'm using on my next FED CPC course.......makes a change from talking about the comparative drag factors between the Hurricane and Spitfire :)
 
Last edited:

PFGEN

GCM
Bugger that, I'm using on my next FED CPC course.......makes a change from talking about the comparative drag factors between the Hurricane and Spitfire :)
Ooh, good choice, I'd join in on the drag factors discussion and maybe add some input on energy manoeuvrability.
 

daz

LE
Ooh, good choice, I'd join in on the drag factors discussion and maybe add some input on energy manoeuvrability.
That's one way of padding the course out :)
 

ches

LE
I;ve been AWOL for 3.5 months due to work issues & not being in a good place for being on the brushes but I started again when things improved.
This is TE with a new look. I chinned off his previous appearance based on the box art of the bust & have reverted to the well known garb from the famous portrait done of him. I still have a fair bit to do on the shadows & highlights side of things but he's nearly done........AT LAST

1552490116214.png
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
I;ve been AWOL for 3.5 months due to work issues & not being in a good place for being on the brushes but I started again when things improved.
This is TE with a new look. I chinned off his previous appearance based on the box art of the bust & have reverted to the well known garb from the famous portrait done of him. I still have a fair bit to do on the shadows & highlights side of things but he's nearly done........AT LAST

View attachment 382347
Looks excellent that
 

offog

LE
Just in the model shop this morning and the proprietor tells me that Emhar are changing their moulds and updating them and so are selling off the older ones slightly cheaper. Just got a Mark IV tadpole for 20 and a whippet for 17.
 
I;ve been AWOL for 3.5 months due to work issues & not being in a good place for being on the brushes but I started again when things improved.
This is TE with a new look. I chinned off his previous appearance based on the box art of the bust & have reverted to the well known garb from the famous portrait done of him. I still have a fair bit to do on the shadows & highlights side of things but he's nearly done........AT LAST

View attachment 382347
That is very nice, I do like the intensity of the eyes.
 

offog

LE
Work on the Roland is continuing. The cockpit has gone in and finished. location of the sub parts was interesting and required a lot of sucking and seeing.

1552897611223.png


The main instrument panel is at an angel and I spent some time trying to get it vertical. It was not till I looked on the next page did I see that it was meant to be that way. Wingnut wings have all their plans on line and as they are very detailed they explain what items are. I did not know that WW1 aircraft regularly were fitted with radios.

1552898619092.png


The engine eventually went in after I realised that the mounting support should be underneath the fitting place on the model not above (sod gravity it sucks). The body has gone together quite well and the filler is now drying.
 

offog

LE
1553089104858.png


Filler is dry and sanded down and another layer of undercoat applied. The pink is the light. Due to the light levels and shadow I have had to move down stairs to see better. I new that eventually I would find a use for the whiskey!

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Fitting the lower wing to the body was a challenge. Just a nudge one was to get it right produced a problem on the other side. I'm not overly convinced that it is not true, but even putting glue on moved the wing slightly so it ended up as best fit. When I turned it over you could see the gap on the wing.

1553089491436.png
 

offog

LE
As the Roland was drying I let the SE5 out of the dogs house on a very short leash. I made a jig for the wing struts to get the angle right which worked quite well.

1553089750401.png


Having done that and the glue set over a day the top wing was fitted.

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The inside struts will now go on as individuals as last time they put everything out. There may be life in the old dog yet.
 

daz

LE
As the Roland was drying I let the SE5 out of the dogs house on a very short leash. I made a jig for the wing struts to get the angle right which worked quite well.

View attachment 383392

Having done that and the glue set over a day the top wing was fitted.

View attachment 383393

The inside struts will now go on as individuals as last time they put everything out. There may be life in the old dog yet.
Now thats a handy tip...... might try that at some stage














All I've done tonight is slice the top of my finger open
 

ugly

LE
Moderator
Daz, have a funny, not for the finger but for the situation
 

daz

LE
Daz, have a funny, not for the finger but for the situation
Rather have a bigger plaster.... turns out swann morton blades are rather sharp
 

offog

LE
Rather have a bigger plaster.... turns out swann morton blades are rather sharp
So you now have realistic blood on the model.
I could sew it up for you, i've got very handy with two tweezers and line working with magnifying glasses.

We're a wired lot, absolutely no sympathy. A friend was doing SCBC and on a live fire when he was hit in the leg. As he was laying on the ground leaking clarett, the DS said "that will teach you to take cover properly".

Put the inner ones on to night. Went well but had to cut down the locating pins as they were too long for the hole. Start rigging tomorrow in daylight.
 

offog

LE
Back on the SE5 yesterday. Started on the rigging adn then realised that I needed to fit the wheels on first as some of the lines are attached to them.

The more I use the EZline the more problems with it I find. Its lack of rigidity when passing through small holes makes it very difficult to thread. It also I think attracts static an in a number of cases it was difficult to capture as it moved away from the tweezers. It also attached itself to other lines and the smell of glue would cause it to stick to other lines. The elasticity of the lines made it difficult to pull away when caught. It is also very,very light. Breathing when getting close would move the lines and don't ever sneeze or blow away dust.

1553352262641.png


I had to use the paper so that I could see the line contrasting against the wing.

On the other hand getting the lines taut is very simple and a dab of glue will hold them, just don't let the glue touch another lines or they will stick to it.

WW1 aircraft models suggested that putting the rigging wires on the top wing first then connecting the two wa a good method. He lies like a cheep NAAFI watch. This caused lots of problems. the lines go every place and get in the way. Because they are so light and hold static they stick to each other and it can be very difficult sorting one from the other. On the plus side you can blow them away, just make sure you have a good hold on the line you want.

I did this down stair thinking that the light would be better and it was till a cloud came by, one second you are in bright light then as you have nearly threaded the line on the 20th attempt you are plunged into darkness. It took 2 hours to attach 5 wires and I was getting into my stride when the light failed and I had to stop.

I am still not sure about EL Line, it has lots of negatives but also a number of big pluses. I may get some thicker line and try that out on the 1/35 DH2.
 

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