WWI Group build

Sadurian

LE
Book Reviewer
Like the proverbial Phoenix rising from the ashes, the Holt Gun Tractor is re born. Much filler and sanding has hidden the canine attack marks and a complete scratch build of the front steering has resulted in something that vaguely resembles the finished article. Model was finished in Tamiya Khaki with Vallejo paints used for detailing and highlighting.
View attachment 380649

View attachment 380644
View attachment 380646
View attachment 380647
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Mud effects were made by adding talc to a brown wash until fairly stiff and applied with a dental tool. Rust streaks were applied using Vallejo weathering set. Quite pleased with it though. Over to the rest of you.
So... green(ish), military and with tracks. Nice tank build.
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
Except for some minor shading, touch up work calling this bloke done. All that remains is to make/source a nameplate for the plinth
IMG_20190304_103235[1].jpg IMG_20190304_103441[1].jpg IMG_20190304_103506[1].jpg IMG_20190304_103531[1].jpg
 

smeg-head

ADC
Moderator
Kit Reviewer
Book Reviewer
Not a good night for two reasons. Dancing on ice will be ending soon so that's two hours lost in the future but on the plus side she has got into Traitor. The second reason was that the wings on the SE5 would not go together. When you had one side in the other side popped out. it seemed that the centre struts were angeled in too much and so were too high. After a number of attempts at this point I carmly put it to one side and found other things to do. It may be sitting to one side for a time, we will see.

The EZline had its first outing and the qualities were interesting (@Sadurian). It is very much like cotton in its rigidity and it was difficult, not hard but difficult to push through small holes. It is very elastic and can be pulled very tight with little force. It did not react well to CA but this may have been because I put too much on. It is different to fishing line which has more rigidity but less bend which can be a problem.

@robinrocket111 I had seen that in my search for info and I also came across two youtube videos of the builds which were very good and looked much better than mine but they were at 1/35 (any excuse is a good excuse). I also saw some reference pictures which I initially thought was a real engine but now think it was a model. As to the engine, The first idea of using fishing line for the HT leads did not last long as the bend was too much and they broke away from the mounting point. They will be replaced with EZline which is much more flexible.

Daimler-Mercedes D.III

It seems the Dlll had a long life and was used in many different vehicles with latter ones being bolted together to form 12 cylinder engines.
Copper or lead wire can also work well for those sort of leads.... its drilling the holes thats the bugger
 
Copper or lead wire can also work well for those sort of leads.... its drilling the holes thats the bugger
That's what I used for the HT leads (yellow) to the plugs. It has just occurred to me that the young would not know what we are talking about. That was 0.25mm wire form a set of earphones. I knew the micrometer I got from Netto all those years ago would come in handy one day. I did manage to drill a hole in the conduit but I think at the distributor end I will just glue them on.
 
The SE5 is now taking a holiday to ensure it survives the war.

I am now considering going back to my roots and building Musical Box. I have seen a German 77mm gun and crew from Emhar who also do the same model in 1/72.

Anyone have any experience of Emhar?
 
So I’m coming just a little bit late to this group build thingy but if you see my post on the main thread you’ll see why. I’m starting off with a 1/35 Renault FT-17 with a Berliet Turret (equipped with a Hotchkiss MG). The FT-17 is generally considered the first “true” tank as it was the first to have a fully rotating turret and the French had the initial ideas about Blitzkrieg, with concepts of using them en masse to swarm the enemy and break through. They were also used by the yanks when they eventually turned up to the war and it was as CO of one of these battalions that Patton first made his name.

Anyway, the model is by a Spanish company called KMR and was made in 1987! As you can see, part count is low and it’s an all resin model. Instructions are pretty minimal but it doesn’t need much tbh! I’ve assembled the main components and will move on to pre-shading, block painting and the detailed assembly.



It is quite unique in that the smaller components are cast into a sheet as you can see. This has the advantage that there are no mould plugs or sprue connection points to worry about but there is a bit of flash to clean off

The main casts show their age and there is quite a bit of small bubble holes and the detail isn’t brilliantly crisp. But it could be worse!

There aren’t any real locating points and mating surfaces are frankly pretty ropey so there’ll be a fair bit of filling to come I suspect


Anyway, more to follow as it progresses. This is my first first into larger scale “fine” modelling so any comments/suggestions about next steps etc would be appreciated.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
So I’m coming just a little bit late to this group build thingy but if you see my post on the main thread you’ll see why. I’m starting off with a 1/35 Renault FT-17 with a Berliet Turret (equipped with a Hotchkiss MG). The FT-17 is generally considered the first “true” tank as it was the first to have a fully rotating turret and the French had the initial ideas about Blitzkrieg, with concepts of using them en masse to swarm the enemy and break through. They were also used by the yanks when they eventually turned up to the war and it was as CO of one of these battalions that Patton first made his name.

Anyway, the model is by a Spanish company called KMR and was made in 1987! As you can see, part count is low and it’s an all resin model. Instructions are pretty minimal but it doesn’t need much tbh! I’ve assembled the main components and will move on to pre-shading, block painting and the detailed assembly.



It is quite unique in that the smaller components are cast into a sheet as you can see. This has the advantage that there are no mould plugs or sprue connection points to worry about but there is a bit of flash to clean off

The main casts show their age and there is quite a bit of small bubble holes and the detail isn’t brilliantly crisp. But it could be worse!

There aren’t any real locating points and mating surfaces are frankly pretty ropey so there’ll be a fair bit of filling to come I suspect


Anyway, more to follow as it progresses. This is my first first into larger scale “fine” modelling so any comments/suggestions about next steps etc would be appreciated.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is a weird layout for the parts, but for a 30 year old kit doesn't look too shabby.
 
Now that the SE5a is in the dog house (as opposed to the dog mouth) I have returned to the Dll.

After a think and comparing the items I think Daz is right and have gone for the wire and not theEZline. Drilling the holes was fun but a good coat of very thick paint should cover up most to the errors.

1551947824580.png

I am waiting for the CA to go off before I try to bend them into the small hole marked.

On the other side is a manifold which I think is the air intake. The pipes are too short and needed extending and they also didn't line up well.

1551948020310.png


I was going to put another pipe over these brass ones but thought it was be too difficult to line up. As it is I drilled the holes on the engine twice the size of the pipe to ensure it would go in. As it turned out this was a good idea and they did not line up well.

1551948213599.png


Again more thick paint will hide most of the problems.

I have now goten used to the head magnifiers adn they work very well at X3.5.
 
That is a weird layout for the parts, but for a 30 year old kit doesn't look too shabby.
Its not that bad an idea for the time.... similar way of casting/moulding the parts as the vacuform mob use
 
Now that the SE5a is in the dog house (as opposed to the dog mouth) I have returned to the Dll.

After a think and comparing the items I think Daz is right and have gone for the wire and not theEZline. Drilling the holes was fun but a good coat of very thick paint should cover up most to the errors.

View attachment 381200
I am waiting for the CA to go off before I try to bend them into the small hole marked.

On the other side is a manifold which I think is the air intake. The pipes are too short and needed extending and they also didn't line up well.

View attachment 381201

I was going to put another pipe over these brass ones but thought it was be too difficult to line up. As it is I drilled the holes on the engine twice the size of the pipe to ensure it would go in. As it turned out this was a good idea and they did not line up well.

View attachment 381202

Again more thick paint will hide most of the problems.

I have now goten used to the head magnifiers adn they work very well at X3.5.
In bold, now there's a phrase not normally heard :)

Cracking engine job so far
 
You do know that White £5 notes aren't legal tender.....
Don't be daft everyone knows they're not legal tender. I got brand new £50 notes. I know they were new because they had the kings head on them.
 
No, CR lll of course, they were brand new once.

edited for a senior moment.
 
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HT leads went in well.
1552030595680.png


And no they didn't all go into the little hole in the conduit, but unless you use a bright light and a magnifying light you couldn't tell.

The start point.

1552030969944.png


The end.

1552030733032.png


I think I have got to the stage that doing more will be counter productive. The exhaust manifold will not go on till the engine is installed and the engine covers go on.

An excellent learning exercise particularly as once the body goes on it will never be seen again, but I now have the confidence to go at other projects with custo.
 
HT leads went in well.
View attachment 381361

And no they didn't all go into the little hole in the conduit, but unless you use a bright light and a magnifying light you couldn't tell.

The start point.

View attachment 381363

The end.

View attachment 381362

I think I have got to the stage that doing more will be counter productive. The exhaust manifold will not go on till the engine is installed and the engine covers go on.

An excellent learning exercise particularly as once the body goes on it will never be seen again, but I now have the confidence to go at other projects with custo.
Let us know when you are going to crank it over!
 
HT leads went in well.
View attachment 381361

And no they didn't all go into the little hole in the conduit, but unless you use a bright light and a magnifying light you couldn't tell.

The start point.

View attachment 381363

The end.

View attachment 381362

I think I have got to the stage that doing more will be counter productive. The exhaust manifold will not go on till the engine is installed and the engine covers go on.

An excellent learning exercise particularly as once the body goes on it will never be seen again, but I now have the confidence to go at other projects with custo.
Is it a 12 cyl block or just two plugs per pot?
 

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