Wood Turning and Other Wood Crafts

Gout Man

LE
Book Reviewer
I made this today, out of cherry and finished in Chesnuts food safe oil.
I’m rather pleased with it.

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Gout Man

LE
Book Reviewer
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A beech fruit bowl finished with chestnut food safe oil. Started yesterday and finished off the polishing today.
 

Gout Man

LE
Book Reviewer
A work in progress, a spalted beech bowl, I must admit that trying to get a good finish is proving difficult, I want to finish it with a shellac chestnut friction polish but just trying to get a really good smooth finish is proving most difficult. @Legs is this the wood or is it my turning?

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This is what I want to use to finish it, haven’t used it before.

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Legs

ADC
Book Reviewer
A work in progress, a spalted beech bowl, I must admit that trying to get a good finish is proving difficult, I want to finish it with a shellac chestnut friction polish but just trying to get a really good smooth finish is proving most difficult. @Legs is this the wood or is it my turning?

View attachment 581577View attachment 581578
This is what I want to use to finish it, haven’t used it before.

First you need to understand that spalted wood of any variety is spalted because it is full of a fungus that grows on the 'rotted' wood. That's what the blackish lines are, a fungal growth. So naturally spalted wood is going to be part rotted. Rotten wood is very soft and liable to 'tear out'. The only way to work it is with the very sharpest of tools and the lightest of touches. Even sanding can either tear the wood or smudge the lines if you go too heavy at it. So in my experience the answer is to use the sharpest tools, the lightest touch and try to produce a finish that requires little if any sanding. Doable with practice and patience.

I've never used Chestnut Friction Polish, I tend to stick to Yorkshire Grit and Yorkshire Grit Microfine. Again, it can cause smudges if you go too heavy at it.

I love spalted wood, despite the difficult nature of it. I've become a fan of using Hard Wax Oil as a finish. Built up in thin coats with a de-nibbing between coats, and then a go with Yorkshire Grit Microfine as a final finish for a really deep gloss.
 

Gout Man

LE
Book Reviewer
First you need to understand that spalted wood of any variety is spalted because it is full of a fungus that grows on the 'rotted' wood. That's what the blackish lines are, a fungal growth. So naturally spalted wood is going to be part rotted. Rotten wood is very soft and liable to 'tear out'. The only way to work it is with the very sharpest of tools and the lightest of touches. Even sanding can either tear the wood or smudge the lines if you go too heavy at it. So in my experience the answer is to use the sharpest tools, the lightest touch and try to produce a finish that requires little if any sanding. Doable with practice and patience.

I've never used Chestnut Friction Polish, I tend to stick to Yorkshire Grit and Yorkshire Grit Microfine. Again, it can cause smudges if you go too heavy at it.

I love spalted wood, despite the difficult nature of it. I've become a fan of using Hard Wax Oil as a finish. Built up in thin coats with a de-nibbing between coats, and then a go with Yorkshire Grit Microfine as a final finish for a really deep gloss.
Thank you very much for the reply, I’ll see what I can do and will post the finished article, maybe tomorrow.
 

Gout Man

LE
Book Reviewer
Well this is the best I could do, I just came in and took a picture with my iPad.
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I must get some wax on that cabinet.
 

Legs

ADC
Book Reviewer
Well this is the best I could do, I just came in and took a picture with my iPad.
View attachment 581896
I must get some wax on that cabinet.
It looks pretty good. Your skills are improving.

A wee touch of constructive criticism if I may be so bold: The lower half looks a little unbalanced. It you had turned it narrower at the bottom then that would balance it. If you look for the imaginary line from the outer rim to the base it doesn't flow cleanly. But that's only my opinion.
 

Legs

ADC
Book Reviewer
And a wee change of thread title, to include anyone out there who makes nice items from wood.



See, ARRSE can be inclusive!
 

Legs

ADC
Book Reviewer
I have finally got some space to set up my Dad’s old Arundel J4, if I can find the other bits I might be able to start contributing to this thread.

So that's what, mid 1970s? If I were you I'd change the any belts, even if they look good. The last thing you want is a belt to blow at 2400rpm. It'll be a chunky machine which could even out vibrations from any unbalanced blanks. That's always a plus.
 

Gout Man

LE
Book Reviewer
Another bowl out of spalted beech.
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Gout Man

LE
Book Reviewer
And a box out of cherry, this now sits on my mums dressing table.

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Cutaway

LE
Kit Reviewer

Gout Man

LE
Book Reviewer
My father.was Harbour Master of Suva, Fiji (during the first Coup era ) anyway he bought a huge carpet for relatively cheap as chips - to bring back to UK on retirement.

The box he had local carpenters make to transport this carpet - was from the best, local mahogany, weighed a ludicrous amount, and has been made into a couple of pieces of family history.

The carpet was good, but the wood ...
 
So that's what, mid 1970s? If I were you I'd change the any belts, even if they look good. The last thing you want is a belt to blow at 2400rpm. It'll be a chunky machine which could even out vibrations from any unbalanced blanks. That's always a plus.
That would be about the right time, Dad recalled buying it from Mr Arundel himself. It’s a fair lump of cast iron that I rescued from my brother’s shed a few years back. The bowl turning thread on the spindle is knackered but the bed facing thread is good. I keep an eye of eBay for a spare, they do crop up occasionally.
 

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