Wireless thermostat installation

BrunoNoMedals

LE
Kit Reviewer
#1
My current wireless thermostat system died on me over the summer and now it's getting towards winter I decided to replace it. The last time I had a gas man out he told me they were really easy to fix, by simply whacking out the existing wiring matrix and having it slot directly into the new receiver. However, the wiring matrix looks like this:

2011-11-01 16.31.53.jpg

The new receiver, however, looks like this:

2011-11-01 16.32.22.jpg

So I figure I need to match the five wires to the five holes.

It's been a while since I wired up anything, let alone a heating system, so I could do with some pointers. The top row of three holes, left to right, are Heating On signal, Live In, Heating Off signal. The bottom two are neutral and live.

I'm a little confused as to the difference between live and live-in, or why they're bridged by default. I'm assuming as I have a five-wire setup in the original it'll be the same for the new one and I need to remove the bridge, but then where does my current live go, and what goes in the other live hole? Earth? Also, which are the two signal wires? I assume blue and yellow, but which way around?

Help would be appreciated! Electric shocks and my house blowing up would not.

Cheers :-D
 
#2
My current wireless thermostat system died on me over the summer and now it's getting towards winter I decided to replace it. The last time I had a gas man out he told me they were really easy to fix, by simply whacking out the existing wiring matrix and having it slot directly into the new receiver. However, the wiring matrix looks like this:

View attachment 54324



View attachment 54325

So I figure I need to match the five wires to the five holes.

It's been a while since I wired up anything, let alone a heating system, so I could do with some pointers. The top row of three holes, left to right, are Heating On signal, Live In, Heating Off signal. The bottom two are neutral and live.

I'm a little confused as to the difference between live and live-in, or why they're bridged by default. I'm assuming as I have a five-wire setup in the original it'll be the same for the new one and I need to remove the bridge, but then where does my current live go, and what goes in the other live hole? Earth? Also, which are the two signal wires? I assume blue and yellow, but which way around?

Help would be appreciated! Electric shocks and my house blowing up would not.

Cheers :-D
Pick a card double it divide by 2, then look at the card you first thought of and add that to the number. Assign each colored wire a number then with your eyes shut tight pop one wire into each hole and so on, tighten up and switch the power back on
 
#4
Get the manufacturers' instructions for both thermostats, very probably available on their websites. Power off, number wires, transfer to new wiring base.

It looks like an industry standard thermostat base, but I'd follow the wiring instructions.
 
#5
Roger Murtaugh: I thought you said you were gonna cut the red wire!
Martin Riggs: Well I did, didn't I?
Roger Murtaugh: No! You cut the blue wire!
Martin Riggs: Well I meant the red wire.
 
#6
Is there any way you can go back to a hard wired stat?

I've got so fed up with the wireless crap being so unreliable, I prefer to fit a normal one, it's much better long term......
 

Rod924

LE
Kit Reviewer
#7
Guessing this, but the fact the red cable on the new case is taped on one side, suggests it is not connected and therefore you can open up the case. There appear to be two wiring diagrams showing, but can't make them out.
 
#8
Lets start with the easy one. Yellow/green is Earth. I cannot see where that connects on your photo of your new one.

Next, Red is Live. Fit it in one of the terminals where the bridging wire is. Do not remove the bridge.

Black is Neutral. Simples.

The remaining two are Switched Live. I don't know which is which, and you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right. If you get it wrong, it will not cause any harm, it just won't work properly. Fit them, power it up, cycle the thermostat, and see if the heating goes on and off as you expect. If it doesn't, swap these two wires, and test again.
 

BrunoNoMedals

LE
Kit Reviewer
#9
The earth is the problem. Seeing as it's connected in the original, I'd expect it to be connected in the new one. I can place all the other cables, but have no idea what to do with the earth. If I removed the live bridge, would the earth go in one of those terminals?
 
#13
The square within a square symbol on the second (crime to photography) photo means it doesnt have or need earthing, Double Insulated.

Snip the earth off as short as possible, and straighten the wires, jab them into your forehead repeatedly chanting, "I TAKE PHOTOS LIKE A RETARD"

If it makes you feel professional, crimp an eyelet on the earth and securely fasten to the plastc body, absolutely pointless, but Ive seen it done.
 
#14
Yes in the pic you can just make it out.
The square within a square symbol on the second (crime to photography) photo means it doesnt have or need earthing.

Snip the earth off as short as possible, and straighten the wires, jab them into your forehead repeatedly chanting, "I TAKE PHOTOS LIKE A RETARD"

If it makes you feel professional, crimp an eyelet on the earth and securely fasten to the plastc body, absolutely pointless, but Ive seen it done.
I must be blind.

PS. DO NOT remove that bit of red wire.
 

BrunoNoMedals

LE
Kit Reviewer
#15
The square within a square symbol on the second (crime to photography) photo means it doesnt have or need earthing, Double Insulated.

Snip the earth off as short as possible, and straighten the wires, jab them into your forehead repeatedly chanting, "I TAKE PHOTOS LIKE A RETARD"

If it makes you feel professional, crimp an eyelet on the earth and securely fasten to the plastc body, absolutely pointless, but Ive seen it done.
apologies. My phone camera was all I had to hand. It's an awesome camera, but the shutter button is so stiff it's impossible to press without shaking everything.

That aside, thanks for all the new info. Looks like I have enough to be getting on with now.

Will all the wires need crimping into eyelets to attach into the terminals correctly?

Sent from my X10i, probably from the loo, using Tapatalk.
 
#16
Replaced my old Honywell with a new unit that has a wireless receiver within the programmer (Sundial RF 2 pack 2 channel)there is a book available for most heating systems on Honywell's site
 

BrunoNoMedals

LE
Kit Reviewer
#17
Well I've got it all sorted and it seems to be connected up fine (i.e. I'm still alive and the house hasn't burned down). However, there is one small issue which I can't work out.

When I turn up the thermostat it sends out a signal to the receiver, which successfully receives it (green light comes on), the burner kicks in and the boiler goes from dormant mode ("0" on the LED display) to central heating mode ("c" on the display).

When I turn the thermostat back down the receiver successfully gets that signal, and the green light goes off. The burner goes off on the boiler, but it stays in central heating mode. I would expect the display to change from 0 to c, but it doesn't happen.

The fact that the burner goes off tells me the boiler is receiving the right signal from the wires coming out of the receiver. However, I don't know why it doesn't just go to sleep properly.

Maybe I'm just not giving the boiler long enough to settle after the signal goes through. I'll dig through the manuals again and see if I'm missing anything, but if anyone's got an idea in the mean time I'd love to hear it.
 

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