Top Tailors - that dont cost an arm or a leg

I am in the market for a new 'tailored' suit. Not being flushed with lots of funds and in the absence of a lottery win I am looking for a local, decent and reasonably priced tailor in the South Yorkshire area. Otherwise will have to get a couple of coal sacks and some string. Some might say what....again.

There are loads about, just wondered if anyone has any personal, but local recommendations.

Notty.

 

Tailored suits come in two flavours. Actually, one of them isn't tailored at all but such is the marketing bullsh1t nowadays.

Firstly, there are made to measure suits. These are genuinely made to measure with a choice of fine cloths. What you are paying for is the talent and expertise of the tailor, the cloth, the dye, the cut, and the hand made service. Expect more than one fitting which, of course, adds to the price. Expect to pay a minimum of £2000 in Saville Row for a made to measure, and the price rises from there. If you want an Italian look then Brioni is the place to go. But expect to pay a minimum of £4000 - £5000 for a custom Brioni.

Then there are the 'bespoke' suits. These are not tailored suits in the truest sense, in that often the 'tailor' (and I use that term loosely) will take your measurements and have a ready made suit altered to fit or will send your measurements to a factory where the suit will be made. Only one fitting is usually needed.

Avoid bespoke suits and instead go for a good off the peg suit and get it altered (if necessary) at a good alterations company. For £400 - £1000 you can find nice Paul Smith, Valentino, Cerruti (great cloth), Canali (great cut and cloth), Zegna and even Gucci suits.

Sleeve alterations are more difficult than leg alterations so make sure that the length of the sleeve fits well (you want a good half an inch of your shirt sleeve showing). Also, a tapered (at the back) leg alteration is a good idea with a little bit of hang.

Two button single breasted navy, charcoal or Prince of Wales check never lose style. Double breasted for the larger frame and more conservative look. For a more tailored look go for British designers (Paul Smith, etc) and for a more relaxed and less structured look go for Italian. Hugo Boss aren't as good as they once were, in my view.

There is a world of difference between the bespoke and the made to measure. One is genuine while the other is not.

For sure avoid this company (which advertises in The Telegraph and the FT of all publications):

http://www.sartoriani.com/

Edited to add: sorry, didn't answer your question exactly. You won't find a top tailor for little money. I don't know of any tailors in your area but I would think that even in Yorkshire you must be talking a grand for a made to measure. I guess you'd be offered bespoke as that seems to be a cunning marketing ploy. Top tailors = top dollar. And don't forget a good pair of shoes in the price too.

 

Contrarian - you are wrong with your descriptions. The word bespoke was contested by those proper bespoke tailors - ie those who cut on the premises - as a specific description. Unfortunately, it did not get through the legal channel and is used by those making 'made to measure' suits which are often farmed out to factories to cut and sew. They are to your dimensions and then altered but they are not bespoke.

Have a look in the Officers Mess forum and the thread there in the stickies. Lots of advice and recommendations in there. I can recommend Coleman and Sons in Leicester - might be a bit South for you, but a superb bespoke (made on the premises) for less than you'd imagine.

Don't buy the big names for a suit - they will often come from the same factories as the cheaper brands and may not suit your build.

 

Theres a good one on London Road, Liverpool did me a lovely skinhead style tonic suit from photos I'd brought in, measured up cloth cut and on me back in 3 days also added 4 secret pockets into it ...excellant fit etc sorry can't for the life of me think of the name, but its still there as I pass it going into town.

 

And did it impress the magistrates?

 

It was crown court actually, trackies for magis , suits for da crown la

 

FHM did a guide on suits a while back and I seem remember them saying Burton's did a bespoke service. Never looked into it myself, but might be a starting point as most towns have a Burtons.

 

Tesco Extra £30

 

Try upper10 in York, neare the minster

 

Just what is the matter with you folks! Tailoring is a trade pursued by ordinary folks. It's not some magic tradition only available to an inner circle with some gift!

Get ye on a course, I say! I've been producing exclusive garments for me, my gorgeous Italian wife (that's for Odd_Sarge, by the way ), our kids, other kids, and various relatives and neighbours for the last forty-five years at least.

Save yourself a bomb long-term and learn the art yourself.

MsG

 

If you should decide not to go DIY here are some pointers for people on a budget: http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000101.html