Paint & Tools Tools, Paints etc thread

wanted to show these images earlier...
reamer, get it from the Airbrush centre Lancing, great for blowing through the nozzle tip

the straw with tip attached, hold onto it or it will shoot off into the darkest reaches of the shed

nylon (various sizes,) brushes for the front end.

view inside the bowl, light at the end of the tunnel.

always leave mine to dry before finishing re assembly, here in an old takeaway tray.
 

daz

LE
wanted to show these images earlier...
reamer, get it from the Airbrush centre Lancing, great for blowing through the nozzle tip

the straw with tip attached, hold onto it or it will shoot off into the darkest reaches of the shed

nylon (various sizes,) brushes for the front end.

view inside the bowl, light at the end of the tunnel.

always leave mine to dry before finishing re assembly, here in an old takeaway tray.
Guardroom 21.00, show clean needle :)
 

offog

LE
Well that was an enjoyable afternoon.

1550908732198.png


As @SPROCKET321 said these models make an excellent learning tool. Although you could have done it without one it did make the build a lot easier.

As to the tool it worked well and once you get used to it you find that you do not need to unscrew the clamp a lot, about half a turn to slide the item in and out. You can on small parts just use your fingers to hold it closed without tightening the clamp. The two plastic tools worked well especially for small bends. For larger bends, once you have started the bend you can use the long side of the plastic tool to complete it and get a good 90 degrees.

Planning your bend is key and selecting the right part to bend against. Multiple folds can be difficult as the first or last fold may be hindered by other folds and selecting the place to bend against so that a fold does not come up against the clamp.

Was it worth £20? That would depend on how much bending you are going to do but I feel I have not wasted my money.
 

smeg-head

ADC
Moderator
Kit Reviewer
Book Reviewer
wanted to show these images earlier...
reamer, get it from the Airbrush centre Lancing, great for blowing through the nozzle tip
He-he reamer! He-he
 

Sadurian

LE
Book Reviewer
Anyone umming & ahhing about whether to buy a pin vice go for it .
The pin vice is also a better option when drilling through plastic. Using a mini-drill it is easy to melt the plastic, making a mess of the area being drilled and also fusing the drill bit in situ.

I use the pin vice when I'm drilling with very small bits - the control is essential when you are using something the diameter of 1mm. My collection of broken fine diameter bits is evidence.
 

Sadurian

LE
Book Reviewer
wanted to show these images earlier...
reamer, get it from the Airbrush centre Lancing, great for blowing through the nozzle tip

the straw with tip attached, hold onto it or it will shoot off into the darkest reaches of the shed

nylon (various sizes,) brushes for the front end.

view inside the bowl, light at the end of the tunnel.

always leave mine to dry before finishing re assembly, here in an old takeaway tray.
I bought a set of airbrush cleaning brushes on eBay a few months ago. Nice and cheap and shipped from Ireland so I wouldn't need to wait weeks for shipping.

Ireland via Qingdao as it turned out. The brushes are decent enough, but I was heartily annoyed at being deceived as to the point of origin.
 
Quick question. Those of you that use airbrushes to do your painting, I assume you have some kind of spray booth set up? Did anyone have problems with not being near a window etc for extraction?
I use a portable spray booth, and it works quite well. It's not near a window, and not too bad for extraction, but I've not done any major surfaces yet. I wrap the folding shields in a single layer of newspaper, and just a touch of masking tape to hold it on.

My next problem is getting a new filter for the booth, the exiting one is getting a bit clogged...
 

daz

LE
The pin vice is also a better option when drilling through plastic. Using a mini-drill it is easy to melt the plastic, making a mess of the area being drilled and also fusing the drill bit in situ.

I use the pin vice when I'm drilling with very small bits - the control is essential when you are using something the diameter of 1mm. My collection of broken fine diameter bits is evidence.
That's bloody huge for a drill bit :)
 

Sadurian

LE
Book Reviewer
That's bloody huge for a drill bit :)
I use everything from bits intended for 'proper' power tools down to 0.3mm. It depends on the purpose of the drilling as I might be dismantling an old Corgi die-cast for refurbishment one day and inserting fine wire as a bowstring on a 28mm figure the next. My most common use is drilling out to drill-and-pin limbs or hands, and I use wire and brass rod of approximately 1mm for that . I use slightly larger for replacing 28mm spears and smaller for (for example) 20mm German rigid vehicle aerials.

Horses for courses.
 

no_idea

War Hero
Has anyone tried the Mig Jimenez range of acrylic paints?
 

Robme

LE
Ok a bit of advice please. I am returning to modelling and have purchased a Tamiya Tiger Tank kit.
What glue should I be looking to buy to go with the kit?
There appears to be many different glues out there in many different dispensers, also what is a Zimmerit photo etching kit?
I’v got an air compressor, guns and paints from a previous hobby, it just the glue that I would like help with, so I don’t end up making the sort of mess I made in my teens (50 years ago)
 

no_idea

War Hero
I'm in the same situation as you. I have gone with Revell Contacta Pro in a 25g squeezy for main use and Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Set for delicate stuff where you want to run in some glue to parts, already dry fitted, using a brush.

Sometime I am going to have to stop buying things and actually make a start with building! Any day now.
 

daz

LE
Ok a bit of advice please. I am returning to modelling and have purchased a Tamiya Tiger Tank kit.
What glue should I be looking to buy to go with the kit?
There appears to be many different glues out there in many different dispensers, also what is a Zimmerit photo etching kit?
I’v got an air compressor, guns and paints from a previous hobby, it just the glue that I would like help with, so I don’t end up making the sort of mess I made in my teens (50 years ago)
A Zimmerit photo etching kit enables you to apply Zimmerit to your model using model paste/putty, something like Green Stuff or Milliput, and then then rake in the pattern using the photo etched kit to match your references.

As far a glues go, I tend to use Tamiya or Revell, thick and thin along with superglue, I've also tried Mr Cement but its a bugger for the longer runs as it (along with Tamiya) tends to evaporate rather quickly
 

Robme

LE
Ok next question, Dry Transfers or Decals (which ever)
I have scoured the internet and fail to find any single source for dry decals.
Anybody got any helpful advice over somebody who supplies them as needed?
 

Robme

LE
Regards, Glue & Transfers, thanks very much.
 

offog

LE
The pin vice is also a better option when drilling through plastic. Using a mini-drill it is easy to melt the plastic, making a mess of the area being drilled and also fusing the drill bit in situ.

I use the pin vice when I'm drilling with very small bits - the control is essential when you are using something the diameter of 1mm. My collection of broken fine diameter bits is evidence.
I am looking at using an electric screwdriver for this task as the speeds are a lot slower. You will need a chuck that will take small bits. I will let you know how I got on.
 

offog

LE
Any ideas on filler please.

I have deluxe material perfect plastic putty but found it dries very quickly and was a little powdery. Not very good for fin work.

I have used green stuff for many years (mine is so old that the contact point between the yellow and blue is hard) and milliput in a variety of grades but it is very difficult to only make up small amounts. One method was to have very small balls of each part and then mix them but then you still have far more than you need.
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
Any ideas on filler please.

I have deluxe material perfect plastic putty but found it dries very quickly and was a little powdery. Not very good for fin work.

I have used green stuff for many years (mine is so old that the contact point between the yellow and blue is hard) and milliput in a variety of grades but it is very difficult to only make up small amounts. One method was to have very small balls of each part and then mix them but then you still have far more than you need.
I use magic sculpt, I am not sure if they're the only UK retail sellers but they are a good firm to deal with
Mannequins & Putties
The small 100g 50gX2 lasts me ages
 

daz

LE
Any ideas on filler please.

I have deluxe material perfect plastic putty but found it dries very quickly and was a little powdery. Not very good for fin work.

I have used green stuff for many years (mine is so old that the contact point between the yellow and blue is hard) and milliput in a variety of grades but it is very difficult to only make up small amounts. One method was to have very small balls of each part and then mix them but then you still have far more than you need.
Melted/dissolved spur as a home made solution...just don't use vallejo filler plastic putty as its shit
 

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