It’s all very exciting, where’s the OP taking us when he’s completed it?
Isn’t a Kangoo a bit on the small side?I am going to do a conversion on a newish Renault Kangoo for a saffer friend
however some of the kits we have seen look like hotel rooms, and will add weight, plus she needs to be able to use it as a car if she changes job, and get her possesions in it
The other thing to think about is if things change and she needs to sell it, small camper vans do not fetch much money, most people want their own conversion, so it all needs to be removable
I plan to make a bed frame from re inforced ply, that will fold like a pasting table for storage, and a cabinet to sit between the front and back seats to add strength and to provide storage
then a couple of simple large cabinets in the rear that can lift out, one to contain camping kit, the other with a lift up lid to reveal a gas cooker, and a washing up bowl, and compartments to store the kitchen stuff
then add a clip on cover to the rear to sheild it in bad weather
cooking and cleaning to be done with the back door open, no risk of fumes
then with two sliding doors easy access to the bed
I have seen far too many awful conversions, featuring huge Television sets and masses of highly flammable furnishings and shitty led lights
might ping a few pics
going to measure it in a few weeks once she has sorted her stuff out, then do a set of provisional drawings
not sure about finish, will probably paint the ply a light colour to make it cheerful
Recommend that you lay a couple of lengths of cable in conduit across the van floor before laying insulation and flooring. You will almost certainly need power on both sides of the van. Cables going down the sides of the van or up to the roof can tap into these. I would use 16mm or 25 mm welding cable.Update - fitting insulation is a right git. The past few days have been spent ripping out the old badly fitting polystyrene insulation and refitting it to make sure there are no gaps. Also, I filled (laboriously) all the metal gullies and channels that criss-cross the sides.
I then (inevitably very messily) filled any gaps around the polystyrene with expanding foam, or, where the gap was too narrow to get the foam nozzle inside, acrylic filler.
The end result is that both sides are now effectively insulated with no gaps anywhere. To add even more I intend to cover the whole thing with one inch polystyrene sheet, giving a total of three inches of insulation.
View attachment 494156
All the bubbling excess will be trimmed off tomorrow when it’s properly cured.
Next on the list is putting the floor down..
ooo hark at you with your Newtons Laws...But presumably you are going to put stuff in the cabinets that isn't weightless? (Technically it's not the weight that's an issue, but the mass, which acquires kinetic energy as you motor along, and then needs to transfer it to something when you corner or stop.)
Fixing to the sides might be adequate, but I'd go for putting some sort of timber footing in before getting the floor insulation down.