stud walls


Evening all i know all u sappers are engineers at heart,Just a quick do i put up a stud wall wot size timber 3x2 or 4x2 with a door and in the garage,not load bearing. :thumright: all good ideas welcome

cheers lads :thumleft:
Sounds like a job for one of our resident brickie's or P&D's. Im a sparky. I only do plugs and stuff :thumright:
The last one i built i used 4x2 or slightly less because the timber was in metric size, if i remember correctly i measured the size of the door lining to give me the size, don't forget to take into account the thickness of the plasterboard/plaster finish, and remember to put the uprights ay 16" centres.

hope this helps

Remember to check the local building regs for the fire standards of the door you wish to put in, 30 mins 1hour fire door etc.


ps and don't forget the insulation, i recommend, the white polystyrene, easy to use and cut, it comes in 25mm 50mm 75mm thicknesses, and in sheets of 2.4m x 1.2m ( 8'x4' ) and if you cut it properly it doesn't fall out on you when you are putting it in the gaps.


edited to add more info.


blackpep said:
Evening all i know all u sappers are engineers at heart,Just a quick do i put up a stud wall wot size timber 3x2 or 4x2 with a door and in the garage,not load bearing. :thumright: all good ideas welcome
A standard 100mm stud is generally 75x50 timbers with 12.5 Gyproc Wallboard each side. Put your stud in at 450 centres and it'll marry up with the board which comes in 900 widths.
As it's in the garage and the floor may not be completely dry I'd run a length of damp proof membrane under the floor plate to keep it nice and dry. (Dry Rot's not fun!)

Rather than explain it, just visit this site: up a partition wall/partition.html

DON'T fasten the studs OR the plasterboard (or ply if you prefer) to the head plate. Run the boards either side of it, leaving a gap of about 10mm between the top of the boards and the underside of the joists. This will allow the roof to flex when it's windy without destroying your wall.

If there's any chance that the floor will get wet, fix the boards 10mm off the floor - you may want to increase the height of the sole plate to allow this.


and ffs dont nail your plasterboards up screw them ,or face nail for ever popping out and also all of the above :thumright:
Given that garages are generally in a damp environment, it could also be worthwhile to invest a few extra pennies on moisture-resistant plasterboard rather than the plain stuff that you'd find in most of a house, or marine ply rather than the cheap stuff. Note that these are moisture-resistant, NOT waterproof. Presuming that this is a long term investment, go for stainless steel plasterboard screws rather than zinc coated.

If the wall is going to be subject to knocks, facing with ply may be a better option than plasterboard.

Sparkysapper recommended the use of polystyrene insulation. Considering the thermal benefits, you need to consider how the rest of the garage is constructed. If, as most garages are, the walls are single thickness stretcher bond brickwork, insulating the stud wall probably won't bring you any benefits. With regard to fire preventive properties, the facing materials themselves ought to provide sufficient fire resistance, especially if there is an external door within the enclosed area. If you feel that you must include insulation (which I doubt, bearing in mind that the door probably won't be insulated either, unless you build it yourself), then mineral fibre is the trade preference - but pack plenty of it in otherwise it will sag over time and only provide insulation to the bottom of the wall. The white polystyrene is a bit iffy because if there's a fire, some types liberate hydrogen cyanide.


blind662 said:
Your welcome , but best you be making an ARRSE SQN bar in your garage though :cheers:
Blind662 sorry mate she [the wife] wont let me but there will be a sh*t pot
washer,dryer,fridge freezer but no ARRSE BAR

SORRY LADS :pissedoff:
When i converted half of my garage to a shower room etc i took the opportunity to batten out the walls as well and insulated those and then insualted the ceiling to make it a nice cosy room, it doesn't take much to heat and keep warm, the only thing i would change now, is i had to build the floor up 9" so i wish i had, had the cash at the time to put in underfloor heating, but the flooring is due for a refurb soon, so might sort it out then.

I did the same a putte suggested i used stainless platerboard screws to fix all of my boards, a little extra cost but worth it in the long run, i also ensured that the polystrene i purchased from the builders merchant was fit for the job, as i explained the use to them and that is what they recommended, unless i have been sold the wrong stuff that is :(

I was also under the impression that if you had a door from a garage to a room attached to the house, the door had to be 1 hour fire retardant, i will however bow to the judgement of somebody better qualified in these matters.

i also seem to remember reading somewhere that if the room that you plan to put a toilet in is going to be attached to a kitchen, it has to have two doors between it and the kitchen, again can't remember where i read it and will bow to superior knowlegde.

hope this helps some more.

Yes the door must be fire retardent.
For good insulation use foam board rather than rock wool, more expensive but is a hell of a lot better.
As has been said screw the plasterbord up, also if you have the room use 12mm plasterboard, more rigid and will lessen the 'hollow' sound .
All the above posts are good advice :D
As a final note beat the wife to submission and make room for a bar :D
Bit of a mix of knowledge here. My mate is a dryliner and you won't catch him using timber studs. Slow work and shrinkage problems. The metal ones are better but I guess less suited to DIY work.

As for not fixing the head plate to the joists at the top - how's the wall supposed to stand up?

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