Paint & Tools Soldering and Photo Etched parts.

offog

LE
I have been talking to @Simmerit about soldering on his Cromwell build and don't want to derail it more.

Like many I did soldering at school many years ago and have now returned to relearn the skills (that I never had in the first place). Having watched a number of youtube videos I was still finding it difficult to get right. Some times it went well and some times not so good.

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I do have lots of caltrops now and they will make Lego bricks left on the floor look like child's play.

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Following a lot of help from others I did improve a bit.

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@Simmerit did say that I should try Carr'S soldering paste. This is a liquid with fine solder suspended in the flux. Practice was needed and using a very hot iron, and I have more caltrops.

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Paste put onto joint.

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Wen it melts you don't get the globs of solder forming and it did take a number of attempts to get it right.

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One of the advantages is that being a paste it will hold the parts in place as you bring the iron to the parts.

I am sure that others will have similar questions about the use of joining PE as I have found super glue rubbish at this task.

Thanks to all those who have helped me along the way.
 
Looking at it, you are putting way too much solder on.

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You just need to run the tiniest of lines down the seam

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Here’s another sequence from the Cromwell thread

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That’s it ready to apply the paste

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it’s not as clear a picture as the last one but if you zoom you can see how little paste is applied, and it’s applied along the seam.

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and that’s is soldered
 

RBMK

LE
Book Reviewer
Looks to me like you are not getting the piece hot enough to make the solder flow properly. Try heating the work piece up with the iron for a bit longer to get the brass good and hot and then use a minimum amount of solder with a bit of flux. The solder should flow into the joint whereas yours looks like it's not melting properly and "blobbing".

I may be wrong, but that's what it looks like to me.

You could also try low melting point solder and a variable temperature iron?
 

offog

LE
Looks to me like you are not getting the piece hot enough to make the solder flow properly. Try heating the work piece up with the iron for a bit longer to get the brass good and hot and then use a minimum amount of solder with a bit of flux. The solder should flow into the joint whereas yours looks like it's not melting properly and "blobbing".

I may be wrong, but that's what it looks like to me.

You could also try low melting point solder and a variable temperature iron?
The first ones were about a year ago and my first attempts. The latter ones are using Carr's paste and done this week. As Simmerit pointed out I am still using too much. You could say I am using 6inch nails to join 3mm hardboard.

I need to make more caltrops.
 
I’ve shot two videos which I’ll pm people with if they want a look.

here’s the finished article after a clean up

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offog

LE
I’ve shot two videos which I’ll pm people with if they want a look.

here’s the finished article after a clean up

View attachment 579750
Thanks, just watched the youtube and it is nice to see that your have similar problems to me holding the items in place. It did seem that one of my sandbags would work well on an item that size to stop the box moving. Not sure about small items. Possibly a bit of chain or a small length of 3 core copper cable.
 
Thanks, just watched the youtube and it is nice to see that your have similar problems to me holding the items in place. It did seem that one of my sandbags would work well on an item that size to stop the box moving. Not sure about small items. Possibly a bit of chain or a small length of 3 core copper cable.

its horses for courses - some stuff is dead easy and straighttoward, and others are more complex. That box is nearer the complex end of the spectrum
 

offog

LE
I needed a kettle to boil water so cut one out of old PE. Once marked a good set of the wife's nail scissors cut through it like butter. Bent and folded into shape and then soldered using Carr's.

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It was even waterproof. Now needs a handle and some wet and dry. It is supposed to be the pot off a No2 cooker.
 

Fang_Farrier

LE
Kit Reviewer
Book Reviewer

When making a temporary crown in dentistry we cut small metal preformed ones down to size using beebee shears.
Might they be useful?

They come in a variety of blade shapes
 

When making a temporary crown in dentistry we cut small metal preformed ones down to size using beebee shears.
Might they be useful?

They come in a variety of blade shapes

Could be - what sort of thickness of metal can they cut without blunting?
 

Fang_Farrier

LE
Kit Reviewer
Book Reviewer

offog

LE
@Simmerit you mentioned in passing about bending/curving large area of PE for you Cromwell. As some more of that area has turned up for the Centaur maybe you could give a little more detail when you come to bend this.

I could never get the engine covers on the Meteor to curve properly as they had indents on the underside and they bent corrupting the curve.
 
@Simmerit you mentioned in passing about bending/curving large area of PE for you Cromwell. As some more of that area has turned up for the Centaur maybe you could give a little more detail when you come to bend this.

I could never get the engine covers on the Meteor to curve properly as they had indents on the underside and they bent corrupting the curve.

yep no problem. I’ve just got another set of etch through.

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these got turned into

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These.

The dents are deliberate by the way as they got damaged with use. I can do a step by step guide if that helps?
 

offog

LE
Please. I think you said something about getting it to a high heat and cooling before bending.
 
Please. I think you said something about getting it to a high heat and cooling before bending.

yep that’s correct. I wouldn’t recommend sticking etch in front of a blow torch as it will melt it into oblivion. You can heat it with a naked flame - a lighted or low light gas oven. Heat it til it’s bloody hot but not red hot metal then let it cool. It will bend like paper around a shape, such as a knife handle or drill bit - whatever is appropriate to the shape of the bend you are after. Once in place either solder or extra thin CA glue and you are done.

mill take some piccies later after work, scran and walking the hounds
 
Please. I think you said something about getting it to a high heat and cooling before bending.

right. Here you go

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that’s it cut out. Next is to heat it over a low light

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so this is fine or a low naked flame.

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expose all of the area to be shaped to the naked flame. You see it’s changed colour. That’s when you know it’s ready. Leave it to cool.

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Then find something suitable to use to shape it to the curve you require

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and that’s it. Next step is to solder or CA glue it
 

Joshua Slocum

LE
Book Reviewer
I have a small modeling vice, quite heavy with a cast iron base, and two arms, each with a pair of crocodile clips in a universal mounting
these make soldering small parts much easier
also a wide choice of soldering irons helps 14W 25W and 45W with corresponding size bits
Antex are a good make
 

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