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Simmerit's build of the R.A. crossing over wooden bridges into Tunisia in 1943 - West Desert Build

Bubbles_Barker

LE
Book Reviewer
No, they were Airfix from the start, however, Airfix did start releasing Max Peerless kits around the same time frame, oddly enough, they were scaled as 1/35 so they ended up supplying both scales at the same time more or less

One of the oddballs that was released by the look of it, only once was the Saladin Armoured Car in 1/32 scale

View attachment 540559
You're probably right - I think I'm misinterpreting the Scalemates page.
 

exspy

LE
What's with that 'arm of service' sign on the fender? Red diagonally over blue?

saladin-armoured-car-jpg.540559
 
This is the first figure I’m going to tackle.

A13ACB72-C249-40BE-A688-BE516CB39C2F.jpeg

as you can see, his left knee is resting on the door top and it looks like he’s raised himself up in the seat to get his piccie taken. Other notable features are glasses on forehead and what looks like a fine specimen of a tour tash. Right hand side of collar is tucked in to keep the cold out.

Here was my attempt and just getting something done. Attention to detail in terms of reproducing the lad? 3 out of 10 and a piss poor effort.

35BE4CE3-F510-4290-9FDC-F49E4815EAC9.jpeg


the cab where he needs positioning

5461BBF7-EC5E-4384-9B8F-2B6B42E6B322.jpeg


I think the leather jerkin is salvageable

85E42770-D1A6-4254-97FA-040CBA73FEE9.jpeg


but let’s see, and the head is all wrong. Not sure what to do about that. I think I need to order some new heads.

The first step is to cut the whole collar off the greatcoat.

Just to set some expectations here. I’ve never sculpted in my life so this may not end well......
 
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Royal Artillery is blue above red horizontal, at least that's the only way I've ever seen it... but I'm always willing to learn.

Royal Artillery as seen by people in Australia?
 
So quick Mat shot as they are
My favourite WW2 wagon

C81B86A7-9DED-4831-B417-5EE51B971780.jpeg

The Ukrainian’s have come up trumps. MiniArt replied and asked for photos so they can kick their manufacturers and they are sending me a replacement set of spruces.

this head has a tash but the face isn’t square enough. Fecking Welsh. Why can’t they have thin faces like the English?

97BBB5F2-F026-4D71-B0DE-5DFD50D7E98A.jpeg

looks too old as well.

2AA742DF-AB7F-4A86-8D79-5D0FDDB38072.jpeg


Fortunately the spruce shipped with the MiniArt box has an arm I may be able to use without recreating the whole thing
 
Gen question.

Why are vehicles scaled at 1/35 while aircraft are scaled at 1/32?

It's the same with the smaller ones. Vehicles are 1/76 while aircraft are 1/72.
This has always puzzled me. I suspect model railways are to blame, with OO gauge (4mm/1 foot) being 1/76 scale and Airfix making rolling stock and scenery to match.

In 1/72 scale, a person is 1” tall, in 1/48, 1 1/2” tall and in 1/6 scale, a foot tall, which is easier to get your head round. It’s also simpler scaling down model aircraft to (eg) 1/32 by a process of halving the actual size, which makes sense pre-calculator.

There’s probably some actual scientific explanation though:
Apparently the space shuttle boosters were designed around the width of a horse’s aarse: They were built offsite and transported by rail to the assembly point. At some point they had to fit through a tunnel. The radius of the curves and the size of the tunnel were determined by the size of the rolling stock and the gauge of the rails. The rail gauge was based on the width of a Roman chariot, the wheels of which had to fit around... 2 horses asses...
Quite possibly complete bolleaux, but it amused me.
 

Bubbles_Barker

LE
Book Reviewer
This is the first figure I’m going to tackle.

View attachment 540648
as you can see, his left knee is resting on the door top and it looks like he’s raised himself up in the seat to get his piccie taken. Other notable features are glasses on forehead and what looks like a fine specimen of a tour tash. Right hand side of collar is tucked in to keep the cold out.

Here was my attempt and just getting something done. Attention to detail in terms of reproducing the lad? 3 out of 10 and a piss poor effort.

View attachment 540650

the cab where he needs positioning

View attachment 540651

I think the leather jerkin is salvageable

View attachment 540660

but let’s see, and the head is all wrong. Not sure what to do about that. I think I need to order some new heads.

The first step is to cut the whole collar off the greatcoat.

Just to set some expectations here. I’ve never sculpted in my life so this may not end well......
He’s probably sitting on his kit, just a thought...
 
Find the head, sculpt a tash with magic sculp

That may well be the solution. I have to say i am massively impressed with the blokes that sculpt the master for casting purposes. Now I'm looking at this shit in detail, I'm concluding these people are hugely talented
 
Anyway. Two bloody hours fannying around with the first figure and this is as far as I’ve got

029E2813-E907-4E69-82F4-A243FC9047E1.jpeg


how I plan to do this is do a bloke then revert to the Wokka and flick between the two builds. I’ll do a bit more on this lad tomoz then start the Wokka on Wednesday
 

load_fin

War Hero
Even in the original pic, the Vs are going up on the driver's side front wheel, down on the offside rear wheel and they are British Rail symbols on the offside front. So it appears they weren't fussy either way.
Maybe a result of punctures and what was on the spare wheel?

The wheels aren't reversible, so you've got a 50% chance of fitting the tyre the correct way ready for the next puncture.
 
I like it, about the only thing would be to make the crew in the back seem to be pressing down the tarp due to weight, it sort of looks like they are floating on it

I battled on for another two hours with that first figure and it is impossible to create a pose from pre-cast plastic parts, so I've come to the conclusion I'm going to have to scratch built the entire figure. I've got exactly the same problem with the crew in the back - they just dont work because they are made from rigid plastic parts which means you just cant get them in a pose that works - thats why they look like they are floating on it. I'm trying to recreate a carbon copy of the IWM piccie, and the only way I'm going to be able to do that is to scratch cast/build all of the figures. Happy days..................
 
I battled on for another two hours with that first figure and it is impossible to create a pose from pre-cast plastic parts, so I've come to the conclusion I'm going to have to scratch built the entire figure. I've got exactly the same problem with the crew in the back - they just dont work because they are made from rigid plastic parts which means you just cant get them in a pose that works - thats why they look like they are floating on it. I'm trying to recreate a carbon copy of the IWM piccie, and the only way I'm going to be able to do that is to scratch cast/build all of the figures. Happy days..................

Looking over Perry Brothers website, their WIP sculpts are '3 up', i.e. 3 x the size of production figures.
I'm keeping a low profile as my projects actually make you look pretty speedy.
However, if I've wanted any figure positioning on something I've carved away any detail under the contact areas, carved away the corresponding body area, replaced with a blob of filler and seated it whilst alternating with blending in the filler.

First did it with a Barton Miniature Landsknecht standing on cobbles (ground away cobbles, sanded feet flatter) result is that the figure appears to have some weight on the floor.
 

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