Builds Simmerits 1/35 Chally 2 build as I'm a bit bored and no-one's done one yet!

Just spotted this thread...

FWIW I have a fair few pics of CR2's taken on my gunner and loader courses in 2000. Most of the pics are on the tank park at Fally. If you are after pics of particular bits let me know and I'll see if I have any close ups.

can you post piccie of the turret - all angles!! As many as you’ve got!
 
can you post piccie of the turret - all angles!! As many as you’ve got!

I'll have a look and see what I can do. I don't have a scanner any more so I will have to take pics of the photos and see how they come out.
 
Just having a look at the anti slip again.

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turret looks OK

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nothing on the hull so I’ll be applying this stuff

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Found a spare InAccurate Armour barrel which I think is the better option

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Done a little bit but resin is a real pain in the burm to work with.

erectile issues with the gun. I’ll need to get a hair dryer on it to heat it and bend it straight.

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it’s bending up at the end.

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Dads203

Old-Salt
Personally I’d use hot water to get it to soften up mate, once you get somewhere being straight then dump it into cold water to fix it into position ;)

A hair dryer only hits one area so you might be stressing the resin and causing it to bend. I also think the AA barrels have brass rod in the centre so be careful that you don’t end up pulling it through the resin.
 
best pick up the bits you want as they look like the are scaling back what they do. I’ve read in a few places we are going to see more British stuff coming onto the market
There are a lot of small firms, in UK and abroad, producing 3D printed kits now, in both plastic and resin.
Just bought some tidy Soviet 203mm howitzers in 15mm, or 1/100 scale, 3D'd plastic, little or no assembly, no filling required, and take acrylic paint nicely.
£7 each, made to order, on Etsy.
 

PFGEN

GCM
Personally I’d use hot water to get it to soften up mate, once you get somewhere being straight then dump it into cold water to fix it into position ;)

A hair dryer only hits one area so you might be stressing the resin and causing it to bend. I also think the AA barrels have brass rod in the centre so be careful that you don’t end up pulling it through the resin.

Interesting observation on the brass rod. The AA chieftain version didn't. I ended up drilling out the bits of barrel I had and added rods. I didn't find anything while drilling, that's not say they don't have rods in other barrels or had parts hidden in the one I had.
 
Interesting observation on the brass rod. The AA chieftain version didn't. I ended up drilling out the bits of barrel I had and added rods. I didn't find anything while drilling, that's not say they don't have rods in other barrels or had parts hidden in the one I had.

This one has a steel rod in it in both sections, although the end section has got an upward bend in it. Heating the end piece either in water or with a hairdryer may not make much of a difference as I will have to also bend the rod to straighten it out. Barrel may be coming off......
 
Done a bit at lunchtime. These are the panzerart resin wheels.

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I see lots of MBT models with big chunks hacked out of the rubber tyres on the wheels. I’d be interested in any talkies comments on the extent of wear and tear damage the rubbers see before they are replaced.
 

Boxy

GCM
Done a bit at lunchtime. These are the panzerart resin wheels.

View attachment 561611

I see lots of MBT models with big chunks hacked out of the rubber tyres on the wheels. I’d be interested in any talkies comments on the extent of wear and tear damage the rubbers see before they are replaced.
I don’t remember huge chunks of rubber missing, except on the BATUS fleet, after a certain % lost the wheel had to be replaced

This is going back a fair few years though
 
I don’t remember huge chunks of rubber missing, except on the BATUS fleet, after a certain % lost the wheel had to be replaced

This is going back a fair few years though
Totally agree seldom had the sort of damage to road wheel rubber or track pads depicted by some modellers.

As soon as you got chunks out the ride comfort became compromised and you would change them soonest so as to ensure a smooth ride:)

More importantly if you did too much mileage with large bits of rubber missing you ran the risk of damaging the road wheel bearings because of the excessive vibration, or that is what we told nig drivers.
 
Totally agree seldom had the sort of damage to road wheel rubber or track pads depicted by some modellers.

As soon as you got chunks out the ride comfort became compromised and you would change them soonest so as to ensure a smooth ride:)

More importantly if you did too much mileage with large bits of rubber missing you ran the risk of damaging the road wheel bearings because of the excessive vibration, or that is what we told nig drivers.
I always find myself questioning modellers. Kit is always well maintained. The ones that make laugh are the ones that are covered in rust.....

anyway. Track joined. A little bit of sag but not too much

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This is actually going together quite quickly. There’s bugger all to it.

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Arrse scale test with said can of Diet Coke
 
Done a bit at lunchtime. These are the panzerart resin wheels.

View attachment 561611

I see lots of MBT models with big chunks hacked out of the rubber tyres on the wheels. I’d be interested in any talkies comments on the extent of wear and tear damage the rubbers see before they are replaced.
I occasionally find a reasonable sized chunk on SPTA. They’re good for cleaning sanding belts. Never seen a vehicle with any missing though.
Edit: Even on Banner, our aircraft never had patches of paint missing, trickles of oil maybe (yes, Lynx, I’m looking at you), but nothing like the wear and tear seen during wartime.
 
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ches

LE
I occasionally find a reasonable sized chunk on SPTA. They’re good for cleaning sanding belts. Never seen a vehicle with any missing though.
Edit: Even on Banner, our aircraft never had patches of paint missing, trickles of oil maybe (yes, Lynx, I’m looking at you), but nothing like the wear and tear seen during wartime.

Another of my bug bears with the modelers who scream & shout about accuracy when they cover an allied AFV in crap & rust. If you even bothered to read just one memoir of a tankie during WW2 they were often taken off the line inc all their vehicles & given plenty of maintenance time as the wagons bloody well needed. No one did maintenance on dirty scruffy vehicles cos they couldn't see the moving oily bit so they got a full on wash down pretty regularly. Couple that with the rate of replacement of even slightly worn out vehicles in the allied armies & a rusty old sherman circa Nov 44 just isn't 'realistic'.
 

Cold_Collation

LE
Book Reviewer
Another of my bug bears with the modelers who scream & shout about accuracy when they cover an allied AFV in crap & rust. If you even bothered to read just one memoir of a tankie during WW2 they were often taken off the line inc all their vehicles & given plenty of maintenance time as the wagons bloody well needed. No one did maintenance on dirty scruffy vehicles cos they couldn't see the moving oily bit so they got a full on wash down pretty regularly. Couple that with the rate of replacement of even slightly worn out vehicles in the allied armies & a rusty old sherman circa Nov 44 just isn't 'realistic'.
Manuals of the time note that local dust is an effective form of vehicle camouflage. In other words, don’t wash them. But, yes, the wear seen on some models is ridiculous.

Especially Normandy. Allied vehicles would have been brand new, pretty much. Some dust, maybe, it was summer, but very little fading or wear. And as you note November is still only five months after that.

But even T-34s; only expected to last days in some instances. German vehicles, perhaps another matter but even then painted to match the seasons.

Don’t get me started on silly fashions like main gun barrels in primer ‘to add a bit of interest’ and ridiculously over-scale weld seams. Some of them are almost 1:1 on a 1:35 scale model, they’re so crude.
 
Had the track/mud guards off to fit the InAccurate Armour resin ones. Apparently the ones on the Trumpeter kit are at the wrong angle......... mental or what?

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these are the Bronco workable tracks by the way. They are actually OK. Interestingly enough they use the same track design in the Ryefield kit.

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These are the InAccurate Armour ones which needless to say........ don’t fit....

going to need to get the Dremel on them as they sit to high as they touch the tracks. I’ll have to grind a couple of mm off the underside. Great.....

bit of soldering to do as well on this one. Moral of story is sell it on waltBay and buy a Ryefield Chally.....

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these are from Taniya and yup. They are too small for the Trumpeter kit. My quick build is turning into a long job.

back on the Wokka and the Mat this weekend though and shooting on Sunday but hopefully I’ll get some stuff done when not pissed.
 
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