Sealing a wooden ceiling

#1
My prefab MQ has delightful wooden ceilings on both floors which constantly drop crap onto those below. The odds of DIO skimming the ceiling in the next 12 months is nil so I’m going to have a crack myself. The current plan is to buy a few tubes of brown silicone sealant and do the job with that. Anyone got a better idea or some tips?
 
#2
set fire to it and get a new place
 
#3
Depending on how big the ceiling area is, why not skim it?

If it is small enough, its definitely within the capability of a DIYer.

Set yourself up a platform or sufficient tables so that you can comfortably reach the ceiling.
Screw plasterboard to it. Tape over any screw heads and any gaps between plasterboards. Then plaster the ceiling - 2 coats. Smooth it down with a float, paint over. Job done and much more pleasing than sealant.
 
#5
I'm disappointed, I saw this thread on a small screen and thought it said
STEALING a wooden ceiling!
maybe that's the answer, steal another ceiling
 

Joshua Slocum

LE
Book Reviewer
#6
you dont even need to plaster it
if you buy dry lining boards they have a bevel at each edge, cut them so the bevels line up with each other and the cuts against the wall, use self drill screws for plasterboard
then tape the joints and skim over with dry lining plaster ready mixed then sand to a nice finish
one caveat
before you go driving screws in best check if there are cables or pipes laid up against the ceiling
it would be quicker to though to use silicon sealant, , but first rub a bar of soap in a small bowl of water and wet your finger in that before smoothing it over
and get a tub of decorators wipes to clean your hands or any stains



ps technically it should be intumescent sealant to prevent fire spreading through it, but if the place has got gaps like that it wont matter much
other cheaper option is to paper it
 
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#7
Depending on how big the ceiling area is, why not skim it?

If it is small enough, its definitely within the capability of a DIYer.

Set yourself up a platform or sufficient tables so that you can comfortably reach the ceiling.
Screw plasterboard to it. Tape over any screw heads and any gaps between plasterboards. Then plaster the ceiling - 2 coats. Smooth it down with a float, paint over. Job done and much more pleasing than sealant.
To skim it, he would need to as you have mentioned tack it first with plasterboard and tape the joins and screwpoints. Not a fortune but definitely a few quid more than he would probably want to spend.

And plastering isn’t an easy art for a novice. A ceiling is also on constant display. Trowel marks and other imperfections would be seen constantly.

It would better to pay a plasterer to do the work even if it cost more because at least then, it should be finished to a decent standard plus it would be done quickly with much less mess.
 
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#8
My prefab MQ has delightful wooden ceilings on both floors which constantly drop crap onto those below. The odds of DIO skimming the ceiling in the next 12 months is nil so I’m going to have a crack myself. The current plan is to buy a few tubes of brown silicone sealant and do the job with that. Anyone got a better idea or some tips?
Get a couple of quotes from the local plasters before you start frecking about,
just might be the best way to go
 

Joshua Slocum

LE
Book Reviewer
#9
if you plasterboard it the fixings need to go through the matchboard into the joists. otherwise it will just fall down
joists have wires and pipes running in them
get a few rolls of lining paper
clean the sealing with sugar soap
and paper it
 
#10
If the photo works...
As it is an MQ that I’ll be moving out of in 12 months I’m not keen to spend money on it, just stop the cobwebs and spiders dropping onto my kids at night. Sealant it is. As for burning it down, two issues. The asbestos is unlikely to go up and if it does the other MQ offerings are exactly the same but I wouldn’t have any stuff.
 
#11
Joshua - your mastic is out of date.

All of the above solutions seem very costly for an MQ improvement. Why not (and I've never tried this so do a small inconspicuous area first) mix half a tub of PVA adhesive with half a tub of white emulsion and use it to roller-paint the ceiling. Essentially, you'd be gluing the loose stuff before it has a chance to drop off.

Don't use Bostik (but if you do, let us know what happens when/if you regain consciousness).

If you turn the room upside down before you start, you won't be battling gravity but then you'd have to remember to start at the corner farthest from the door.
 
#12
Decorators caulk from screwfix 0.99p a tube will fill the gaps and if necessary (on march out) can be easily cleaned orf !! (sealant sets hard and may be difficult to remove)
 
#13
Joshua - your mastic is out of date.

All of the above solutions seem very costly for an MQ improvement. Why not (and I've never tried this so do a small inconspicuous area first) mix half a tub of PVA adhesive with half a tub of white emulsion and use it to roller-paint the ceiling. Essentially, you'd be gluing the loose stuff before it has a chance to drop off.

Don't use Bostik (but if you do, let us know what happens when/if you regain consciousness).

If you turn the room upside down before you start, you won't be battling gravity but then you'd have to remember to start at the corner farthest from the door.
I’ll have a look at that tomorrow. It would improve the kids room no end. I think the gaps between the ceiling ‘planks’ would mean a lot of sealant anyway.
 

Joshua Slocum

LE
Book Reviewer
#15
Joshua - your mastic is out of date.

All of the above solutions seem very costly for an MQ improvement. Why not (and I've never tried this so do a small inconspicuous area first) mix half a tub of PVA adhesive with half a tub of white emulsion and use it to roller-paint the ceiling. Essentially, you'd be gluing the loose stuff before it has a chance to drop off.

Don't use Bostik (but if you do, let us know what happens when/if you regain consciousness).

If you turn the room upside down before you start, you won't be battling gravity but then you'd have to remember to start at the corner farthest from the door.
I dont think it will fill the gaps, or move as the timber expands and contracts, thats why I recommended a flexible sealant that is also cheap
in an ideal world I would use intumescent acrylic sealant
 

greyfergie

MIA
Book Reviewer
#17
...and before you start please dont put any silicone on it as any products you try and put on it later won't stick as it will act like a crayon, all waxy and no paint/stain/finish will stick to it....
 
#18
Any chance of a picture of the pattern of the 'planks' please and a description of what the ceiling is actually doing?
It’s not letting me add photos for some reason. Looks like four inch wide planks the may have slotted together before they became warped. You can see the roof tiles through the gaps (there is no attic). They have a gloss varnish on them too.
 

greyfergie

MIA
Book Reviewer
#20
It’s not letting me add photos for some reason. Looks like four inch wide planks the may have slotted together before they became warped. You can see the roof tiles through the gaps (there is no attic). They have a gloss varnish on them too.
So they're not flat [as in horizontal] they're following the shape of the roof? Any insulation in there? Is that whats falling out of the gaps?
 

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