Rifles Hot or Not - Show us yer kit!


One for the long range shooters, its a bit old, but I have not seen it before:

1000yards apparently. I can only think that it hit the plate, ricocheted down and hit something on the ground that returned it to sender.
100yds and guy is an idiot, a lucky one but an idiot all the same.
First shooting for me in 6 months with my new AR (at 200 yards) and vortex strike eagle scope. I managed to hit some steel at 600 yards, but only off the bench.

I also got to shoot my newest addition - Chilean Mauser in .308 ( converted) made in 1898 I believe. Ugly, but interesting.



How much work has it seen? If your not aware have a good look about the trigger guard etc for hairline cracks as think they suffer plastic fatigue in that area.
Further to my post 6292 I managed a few shots of the gun in bits prior to assembly for shooting. He took such a long time to fit the barrel, I told him that had he been a gunner on the eastern front the Russians would have been in Berlin by Christmas 44!
I have seen all kinds of weapons on here and of all post, This will be one I will remember, , you lucky so and so


..just starting on a Dreyse needle gun restoration!

The stock is rotten and needs to be replaced. I am happy to do this, but has anyone any good leads on where to get a suitable stock blank? I need something about 55" x 6" x 2" as I have to replace the entire full length stock! I don't need or want anything particularly pretty or exotic. Most of the usual suspects only have shotgun or sporting rifle blanks which are too short and are silly money. I would prefer walnut, but any other suggestions would be welcome!

I will keep you up to date as it progresses!


Saving the Dreyse Pt 1..

Well, I have now had the Dreyse (Prussian Needle Gun) up on the bench, and got the metal off what is left of the wood..


The classic Curate's egg..

1. All the bits are there, although some have been "restored".
2. Someone has chromed the barrel at some point..
3. I'm sure Dreyse did not use cling film on the stock, or that the stock is supposed to bend there!

Still, I can't complain as I got it for less than half what they usually go for.. even paying Holt's fees! I have been chasing Dreyse for years now on the Herman the German site, and having just extracted a Werder from them, do not need or want that experience again!


The barrel and action is pitted in places, and has been overplated, however the markings are quite clear.. It is a late Model 62 with a steel barrel made in Danzig. It has not been modified with the Beck attachment, and the good news is the bore is excellent.


The stock however is a goner.. chewed and rotted right through.. at some point someone has tried to hold the whole thing together with varnish, but the wood in the wrist is shot.. I hope there is nothing alive left in there, but I might just stick it in the freezer just to be sure..!


There is however enough left to serve as a template to make a new stock..!

So, plan of action:

1. Barrel off to the platers to have the chrome removed! You can actually do this yourself, but unless you have the means to dispose of a couple of gallons of extremely toxic waste, forget it! Platers just bung it in the chroming tank and set the controls to reverse which strips off all the chrome and puts it back in solution to be added to the next chrome bumper that comes along. They will also remove any copper or nickel plate that is under the chrome. De-plating will also dig out any chrome that is in lettering etc, and will not remove any steel. Warning.. make sure you get them to oil up the barrel as soon as it comes out of the tank, otherwise it will rust as you watch it!

2. I think I have tracked down some walnut for a stock. Looking at what is left, I have no idea how far the worm has gone up the stock, but there are stopped holes all the way past the action. I don't really want to put a joint in the stock, as it is unlikely that I will find matching wood. I therefore need to build a full length stock. I need a blank that will take the full length of the stock and the drop in the butt. The most important bit is to ensure the grain is straight through the action and the wrist. If I can find a bit of wood where the grain curves down so that it it parallel with the bottom of the buttstock that would be ideal as if the grain crosses the toe of the butt there is a danger of splitting off the toe.. (see my previous posting about dog bone repairs!). The good news is that the Dreyse has a nice big flat bit up by the action that will be easy to carve and hold in the vice (...which is why it is there I suspect!) the bad news is that I have a lot of barrel to inlet and a ramrod hole to bore! I suspect the milling machine is going to get very dusty at some point!

... to be continued!
Last edited:


This interesting pair arrived today

not sure who made the rifle or what caliber it is but the shotgun has barrels from Purdey and both are long stocks, they hail from up @Ravers way!

Latest Threads