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Removing TRV

Joshua Slocum

LE
Book Reviewer
New TRV comes with thread gubbins but need to screw into the thread where the old TRV was. If I disconnect the big nut the water will pour out of the radiator.
Pipes on the whole system are plastic and meet with the Gas Boards standards.
problem with changing only the top part is, the acutain pin in the TRV wears, and often sticks
its better to replace the entire unit
 
Was power flushed about 7 years ago as replaced the bathroom radiator with a big towel rail.
OK thank you :) Which is your go to head?

Does the Hive head fit or are you going to swap the valve? If you're swapping it pick any that fit the Hive head. Honeywell, Danfoss, Drayton any really.
 
Does the Hive head fit or are you going to swap the valve? If you're swapping it pick any that fit the Hive head. Honeywell, Danfoss, Drayton any really.
The hive head did not fit. It came with an M30 adaptor, correct diameter but the thread starts immediately and was only about 3mm, on the body the thread is about 3mm down from the top, so I couldn't connect:
1601564182295.png

I have sent them back. Quite fancied the plain Drayton TRV4
1601564425431.png

But am also tempted by the Eqiva EQ3 Bluetooth model (for the geekiness)
1601564505083.png
 

Slime

LE
It says 1/2 on the body which I assumed meant 1/2 inch. You don't think it needs replacing, even though it looks 'orrible?
Interesting you say that. This has been the only TRV that jams when I switch the heating on in the Autumn. Gas engineers solution past couple of visits has just been to whack it. That's also where the head scratching came about when thinking to replace it.
Yup, the Hive instructions were clear on that :)

Whenever I’ve seen someone whack the pin in a valve it names me wince, it’s a stupid thing to do and very often leads to problems later on.

There is nothing wrong with forcing the pin down a touch, but simply applying slow pressure with the side of a spanner etc will free the pin without deforming the pin or housing.
 
Whenever I’ve seen someone whack the pin in a valve it names me wince, it’s a stupid thing to do and very often leads to problems later on.

There is nothing wrong with forcing the pin down a touch, but simply applying slow pressure with the side of a spanner etc will free the pin without deforming the pin or housing.

Just needs a tap, tappy tap tap tap. (Happy Gilmour walt).
 

Slime

LE
Just needs a tap, tappy tap tap tap. (Happy Gilmour walt).

You feel free to do that :)
My way has worked well for 30 years, I’m sticking with it :)
 
The hive head did not fit. It came with an M30 adaptor, correct diameter but the thread starts immediately and was only about 3mm, on the body the thread is about 3mm down from the top, so I couldn't connect:
View attachment 508861
I have sent them back. Quite fancied the plain Drayton TRV4
View attachment 508862
But am also tempted by the Eqiva EQ3 Bluetooth model (for the geekiness)
View attachment 508863

I wouldn't bother with all that fancy stuff, just replace the valve with a normal one.

If you DM me I can talk you through from start to finish and if you have any issues you can ask.
 
The boiling point of petrol is much lower than water so the boiler wont need to work as hard.


Probably.
How about diesel? Less flammable.
 
You should fill your system with a liquid that won't rust up the pipes.


Like petrol.

those plastic pipes are unlikely to rust... just the radiators and boiler.

How about using something like mercury, should be ok provided there isn't any aluminium in the system.
 
Your rads would weigh 85 kilos each by my ( incompetent ) calculations and drag the house down through the foundations.
I guess you never had a quarter SFA with the economy 7 storage heaters. Was in one at Lossiemouth and Valley where they swapped out the massive old ones, filled with what appeared to be 400 pounds of bricks, to the new (and improved) slimline versions with only about 100 Lb of bricks. Both were equally useless at keeping the place warm, especially of an evening.
 

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