Reloading Help Required

Discussion in 'Shooting, Hunting and Fishing' started by Henry_Tombs, Oct 27, 2010.

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  1. I have just bought myself a Steyr (back position) rifle fitted with a 1935 BSA Match Rifle barrel in .303.
    Having loaded .303 for about 15 years I thought I was on top of most things, however; my reloads require some effort to close the bolt, where as with factory Privi the bolt closes with ease.
    Having taken a vernier to both type of rounds its clear that the difference lies in the neck of the case with the reloads being bigger.
    The Privi has a crimp but as I am using Sierra Match Kings I can't crimp........or can I??
    The reloads have 41.5 Grns of N140 under the 174Grn SMK and gave me a couple of "V"'s at 900 on Stickledown last Sunday.

    Advice please gentlemen; also the name of a good tailor for plus fours woudn't be amiss!
  2. Farlows No. 9 Pall Mall

    As for your .303 cases, would trimming the neck length down a tad help in any way? My understanding has been that putting a crimp on bullets without cannelures is not a good idea
  3. That has been my understanding as well, neck length is within a 1/1000 on both examples.

    As for Farlows, I always thought plus fours and breeks were an "Oxbridge" thing, it wasn't until I shot last Sunday that I found my self screaming "line of sight" at my trouser!
  4. Well, you might want to explore the getting towards really dangerously **** world of Neck Turning.

    Few have ever returned the same.
  5. I presume your neck tension is adequate without a crimp? If so, then it's probably not your reloading die set up. However, I would probably check that the shoulder on the case is not actually causing your problem: are you full length or only neck sizing? If you are using the Lee collet-type neck-size die the tightness will actually be on the shoulder, which is not a problem and is probably advantageous provided it is consistent. Quick way to check: take a loaded (dummy) round and a permanent marker, coat the neck and shoulder area with ink and chamber the round. Extract the round carefully and see where the contact was.

    Applying crimp to solve this problem might not be such a good idea: if the chamber is a bit tight in the neck already and then you crimp, you risk sending your pressure through the roof. If you really need to crimp, the Lee Factory Crimp is fine for crimping bullets without crimp groove or cannelure.

    I would also look at the chamber neck: is it coated with a layer of baked-on graphite/carbon? If it is, you won't be able to see it because it will appear shiny. But, with an appropriate plastic tool you will be able to scrape it off in flakes. If this is the case, lots of scraping, solvent (e.g. brake cleaner) and a good-quality chamber brush will get rid of it. Problem solved!

    If, on the other hand, none of the above are the case, then one needs to enter the murky world of inside neck reaming to reduce the wall thickness. Tools are available from Specializing in Reloading Supplies and Equipment for Firearms - Sinclair International . Don't outsides neck turn, since if you do it wrong it's an easy way to trash your brass.
  6. Bloggie, Stoatie,

    Thanks for the imput, I will have another look tonight regarding what needs to be done.

    It did also occur to me that neck thickness may be an issue; the reloads are HXP (89) brass which on first sight do appear to look thicker that my once fired Privi.
  7. ugly

    ugly LE Moderator

    HXP Hellenic explosives factory are thicker, there were made originally to an MoD contract as RG had ceased production and supplies were at Risk for the cadet forces. The brass is thicker as is most military brass, made to a spec rather than to beat a price if you know what I mean. The chamber may well be a tad tight, tolerances do vary and this may be resolved by cleaning or polishing. Try cleaning before neck turning. If inside neck turning doesnt work then your dies could just require a little resetting. I have found even with rimless rounds if you resize to allow rounds to be a gnats nudge of the lead then you can be quite tight in another chamber of the same calibre. I have now to reset all my dies as they were all custom set for rifles and now I tend to go through rifles a lot more. Crimping is a subject of its own and you may find difficulties with neck tension when you change brasss if you dont have a small uniform crimp regardless of bullet. I fing its easier to have some than none especially if you end up with lead seated bullets and have to unload. It can jam the bullet and get messy!
  8. If its a 1935 match barrel, are you sure that its actually chambered for standard .303 British - and not one of the "303 magnum" rounds they were using at Bisley that year? I think that was the year they reverted to a .303 case, but were still using one of the Kynoch "Streamliner" bullets (which later became the MkVIII bullet). Maybe the Sierras are slightly larger dia than the Privi bullets ....... (which are themselves copies of MkVIIIs)?
  9. ugly

    ugly LE Moderator

    Good call!
  10. Barrel is stamped for MkVII Ball.
    I would have preferred something in .303 Magnum as a chum has offered some brass and dies if I find one.
  11. Remember that Sierras, Prvis etc are .311", whereas Mark 7 ball is .312”.
  12. ugly

    ugly LE Moderator

    Thats an awfully tight tolerance there if it makes that much difference.
  13. Oh how I love the arcane world of gun nutters and especially the alchemy involved with the reloading cult! It is reassuring and a reminder that things here cannot be THAT bad if the nuances of neck crimping, cannelures, and the like are being discussed with such ardor around the world. Have I told you about my lovely Dillon Precision Super 1050? I carry its picture in my wallet. ;-)
  14. Best not to mention the difficult subject of BPF (Brass Polishing Fetish) in these parts. What somebody gets up to in the privacy of their own shed stays in the shed.
  15. Mum's the word (tapping side of nose)