Rebarrelling recommendations

ugly

LE
Moderator
Ok, I'm in the market to rebarrel a couple of rifles, one to .280 British possibly (after this weekends feed testing) using a Parker Hale Mauser and one in 6.5 Swede out to 7.62mm using the same case in a Rem 700.
I'm after quality workmanship from preferably a full time smith rather than a lad who has 3 years worth of after work stuff to get through. Chamber reamers will need to be provided (unless I get them) although I can provide rounds.
If the price is good I may do 2 in the .280!

Recommendations please
 
How about trying 6.5x47 Lapua ? I`m thinking about it , deer legal , flatish trajectory , low recoil , uses 308 as a parent case , and super accurate in the right rifle.
 

ugly

LE
Moderator
No thanks cal choice is sorted
 

ugly

LE
Moderator
Exactlly now any recomendations
 

ugly

LE
Moderator
I know Norman very well but he is also busy and not cheap!
 

Blogg

LE
Well good luck with that. Absolute travesty that such a capable round was ditched.

As a matter of interest, what are you intending in terms of cases and projectiles?
 

ugly

LE
Moderator
Dont know yet, thats why I'm asking so I can shop around
 
RPA might still be looking to keep the lathes spinning mate- worth a ring. Their work is exceptional, and pretty quick (depending on contracts they have at the time).

Good luck finding a guy with those reamers, but maybe Border Barrels have them in. He could also make them maybe? Expensive though!

I would buy the reamers from the US, and have reloading dies made using them, then your brass will last for ages, giving you some return on the outlay.
 
Lilja barrels or Border's 'cheap' range of Archer barrels are excellent. Lilja is the cream of the crop in my view.
 
Lilja barrels or Border's 'cheap' range of Archer barrels are excellent. Lilja is the cream of the crop in my view.

Whats the difference between Border and Archer other than price , is the accuracy really that noticeable?
 
Whats the difference between Border and Archer other than price , is the accuracy really that noticeable?
Border is cut rifled, Archer is button rifled. Both work, but cut is often seen as the technical ideal, and has a reputation for putting the first round from a clean barrel in to the same place as the fouled barrel shots.

If you carefully break in your button rifled barrel it will still give you first shot zero.
 
Border is cut rifled, Archer is button rifled. Both work, but cut is often seen as the technical ideal, and has a reputation for putting the first round from a clean barrel in to the same place as the fouled barrel shots.

If you carefully break in your button rifled barrel it will still give you first shot zero.

So a button rifling is just as good if you take care to break it in, plus quiet a bit of cash saved.
 

ugly

LE
Moderator
I would recommend breaking in a barrel even on a sporting rig regardless of make mainly as it does seem to prolong life and it forces some discipline into you and you can use it to start the zeroing process.
 

ugly

LE
Moderator
To be honest, most wandering zero issues are more to do with not preparing for firing or failing to clean adequately after use.
 
So a button rifling is just as good if you take care to break it in, plus quiet a bit of cash saved.
Yep.

I broke my barrels in using a bore scope, so I knew for sure when all the copper fouling was out. All my rifles were zeroed for the first shot from a cold, clean barrel. It meant I didn't have to do a fouling shot before stalking, just check collomation and go out.
 

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