Radio Control Modelling....planes cars and boats... time to finally admit you never grew up

daz

LE
Get the narrow Tamiya masking tape. It's good stuff and goes round curves quite well. There are a lot of guys on the military modeling thread who know everything you need to know and then some more about masking. They will be happy to help.

Get some lexan rattle cans and have a practice. Light coats are much better than a heavy one and will not bleed under the masks.

Enjoy the build! Any questions on the RC side just shout.
Tamiya do a white "curveable" tape, can't get on with it myself - given the size that needs to be masked, you might be better off making paper templates
 
Tamiya do a white "curveable" tape, can't get on with it myself - given the size that needs to be masked, you might be better off making paper templates
Hi Daz!
I think he is fine with the windows, it's the detail bits he wants to paint as I understand it.
 

RigPig

War Hero
Cheers Gents. I will be looking for some Tamiya tape and I’ll get some Tamiya rattle cans to play with. It’s a long time since I did any modelling, over 30 years so any paint skills I had will be long gone. Lockdown means that’ll it’ll be mail order. From first look at the lexan shell and the pictures it looked like there was a lot of detail that needed to be masked and sprayed, such as around the windows. There are a load of decals that cover those, so I don’t think it’ll be as bad as I initially thought, though I reserve the right to change my mind.

i have read and lurked on the modelling thread but mainly to see what others are up to. I’ve not read it with an eye to actually doing any of the techniques mentioned as I wasn’t intending on building anything. Times change.

I got some time just reading the instruction book last night. No cutting or building. I have seen elsewhere that Tamiya use JIS screws rather than Phillips or Pozi. I’ll have to have a look at them and get a new screwdriver as well. Wish I’d known that, I’d have ordered them at the same time as the kit.

Thanks for the offers of help. I will certainly be asking if I get stuck.

RP.
 
Don't Tamiya give you a screwdriver? Have a butchers at the parts list in the instructions.
 

daz

LE
Cheers Gents. I will be looking for some Tamiya tape and I’ll get some Tamiya rattle cans to play with. It’s a long time since I did any modelling, over 30 years so any paint skills I had will be long gone. Lockdown means that’ll it’ll be mail order. From first look at the lexan shell and the pictures it looked like there was a lot of detail that needed to be masked and sprayed, such as around the windows. There are a load of decals that cover those, so I don’t think it’ll be as bad as I initially thought, though I reserve the right to change my mind.

i have read and lurked on the modelling thread but mainly to see what others are up to. I’ve not read it with an eye to actually doing any of the techniques mentioned as I wasn’t intending on building anything. Times change.

I got some time just reading the instruction book last night. No cutting or building. I have seen elsewhere that Tamiya use JIS screws rather than Phillips or Pozi. I’ll have to have a look at them and get a new screwdriver as well. Wish I’d known that, I’d have ordered them at the same time as the kit.

Thanks for the offers of help. I will certainly be asking if I get stuck.

RP.
Order some threadlock while you're at it :)
 
But never, ever put it on plastic! Thought I would thread lock a prop nut onto a plastic prop. It was ok for a while then the plastic gave way. It could have been bloody dangerous if I had throttled up before I spotted it.
 

RigPig

War Hero
Thanks again Gents. I’ve got the normal Pozi and Philips stuff, just read that Tamiya May use Japanese standard rather than the above mentioned screw types. I’ll get some screws out the box and check them when I get a minute. That’ll be once sprog is in bed. I thought I’d got threadlock, but I’ve just checked and it’s Loctite 270 for permanently locking threads. I won’t be using that on here.

I’ll get on online and order some paints, decent bendy masking tape ( my stock of tape I er.... found has gone gacky over time since I left the mob), Locktite and other bits and bobs. Colour wise I may go for red, as we all know the only thing faster than a red car is a white Astra van. Is till have to open the packages to see exactly what I’ve got. Full on remote control car virgin here.

RP.
 
Red will be different to all the silver/gunmetal ones! Have you got the radio gear?
 

RigPig

War Hero
Red will be different to all the silver/gunmetal ones! Have you got the radio gear?
Yes. I bought a package, radio controller, servo, battery and charger. The kit came with an ESC in it. I may get some time now whilst daughter is being a shit and sulking in her room about going out for a walk.

RP
 

RigPig

War Hero
I found a good video on painting of the Lexan body and applying the decals. It’s 30 years since I last did any plastic kits, so that was a refresher for when I paint the thing. The bloke made it look easy, but then he did say he had 30 years experience and still makes mistakes. His car looks really good.

I cracked on and did a bit whilst my daughter was mardy in her room and completed the transfer case and attached the motor. Chassis work next. Paint ordered as well. I went for red as it looks good with black trim.


RP.
 
Great vid, it's a piece of cake obviously! ;)
I'm not sure I could score a curved line like that. I would probably cut close and use my dremel (other mini tools are available, terms and conditions apply) to trim up. Dont forget to get plenty of beer in, to clean the bodyshell of course, not to drink! :D
 
Evening the collective , we're probably all in the same boat, after being in prison with hard labour, for a number of weeks , I finally managed to sneak back into my work room , and decided before I started working on yet another foam wing for the Goliath twin (number 3).that the workspace needed a serious clean and sort out
After getting all the crap sorted , new storage boxes from Poundland, sorting out all the servos, testing them , testing all the batteries and ESCs, I removed the disc from my Parkside table mounted sander , and threw it in the bin, (which was obviously emptied that morning, by the council, and they were early for once) , only to discover that I'd put away all the replacement discs somewhere safe, so safe in fact that it took me a week to find them hiding in my box folder of RCME free plans, where I put them so I wouldn't fecking lose them

This actually got me thinking, what is your favourite tool in your workshop?, that one that you absolutely couldn't manage without
the sander is probably the best thing I have found yet for accurate square joints on strip wood , great for rough shaping foam even for chamfering sharp bits off piano wire after cutting

so over to you , ( was going to say let's see your favourite tool, but thought maybe not!!!!)
 
Mini drill for me. Use it for cutting, grinding, polishing, sanding, and just occasionally drilling. A multi tool if ever there was one.
 
Pissing down all day , so was told I didn't need to spend all day in the gardens, so spent a bit of quality time downstairs with the goliath again
So , got all the wiring installed a couple of evenings ago with dental floss threads to pulll the servo and esc cables through
useful tip #1 joining silicon wires to ESCs ... use an old 4mm female gold type connector cut the tube into 6 mm pieces ,now push the stripped ends of the wire in each end, and hold a hot soldering iron against the outside , feed a little solder into the ends , then pull over the heat shrink tubing you had pushed onto the wire before you joined them , strong , tidy and doesn't look like it was soldered by someone with Parkinsons

anyhoo, this is the third version of the wing, the first was not very good, and used two gws 280 geared motors , but wasn't powerful enough on 2 s lipos, and 3s would probably burn them out
No 2 incarnation was hotwire cut and joined , on a ply vertical spar, , but was getting heavy even before I started to cover with brown paper
and now I am on number 3 , 3 mm hard balsa vertical spar sandwiched between 6 mm depron on a lower skin of 3 mm depron , 6 mm ribs fit all the wires and dental floss pull throughs and cover the top with 6mm. It has turned out not too shabby
wing 2 has two 2820 e max motors would be a bit excessive powered , and again a bit heavy
no3 has two motors I robbed from the HK Lancaster which is now PSS
any way , a couple of photos


goliath 1.jpg
golly.jpg

1-3 from the right
 
Looking good! A lot of work there.Did you ever have a powered flight with your Lanc? Still haven't flown mine, it looks too good to crash on the maiden flight!
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
Looking good! A lot of work there.Did you ever have a powered flight with your Lanc? Still haven't flown mine, it looks too good to crash on the maiden flight!
Isn't that the entire point of building them, looking at this thread?
 

RigPig

War Hero
Up date on my G wagen. Most of the chassis is completed, just a few more bits to fit on either end of the chassis rails, fit the rc gear, wheels and connect the cables up. The body shell has been cut out and the holes drilled, though they need cleaning up a touch. The really long bit will be the body shell painting and decals. It’s been a slow but enjoyable build. It has kept me busy for an hour or so once the daughter is in bed.

It‘s not finished yet and I’m already thinking of getting a defender body shell and then changing the wheel base to fit correctly. The chassis has some adjustment both front and rear.

Sorry about the crap picture.

RP.

image.jpg
 
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hi HT
decided to take them out before I flew it powered , also the retracts I usually fly in my local park, too small an area, and an accident waiting to happen , I do live about three miles from a great soaring site (East Lomond hill) which faces the predominant west wind, have flown the lanc a couple of times , it's heavy and needs a decent blow but flying out from the hill against the wind is fairly scale like It has a 2200 lipo shoved right to the front still mainly because it needs loads of nose weight, I couldn't get the ESCs out without major surgery, so they are still there and the battery feeds one , which brings the voltage down flies like any other bank and yank 2 channel soarer
hill is great for Zagi flying with the added bonus that they bounce well
 
hi HT
decided to take them out before I flew it powered , also the retracts I usually fly in my local park, too small an area, and an accident waiting to happen , I do live about three miles from a great soaring site (East Lomond hill) which faces the predominant west wind, have flown the lanc a couple of times , it's heavy and needs a decent blow but flying out from the hill against the wind is fairly scale like It has a 2200 lipo shoved right to the front still mainly because it needs loads of nose weight, I couldn't get the ESCs out without major surgery, so they are still there and the battery feeds one , which brings the voltage down flies like any other bank and yank 2 channel soarer
hill is great for Zagi flying with the added bonus that they bounce well
With even more servos and weight the V1 Lanc must have been a real porker. Amazing that any of them survived beyond the first flight. The prototype flew well on the HK video but that must have been half the weight of the version that got sold. Post a vid of yours strutting its stuff!
 
Isn't that the entire point of building them, looking at this thread?
Nooooo! It needs to be savoured before it re-kits itself! I occassionally pick it up and reenact scenes from the Dambusters when no one is watching. :)

I spoke to a chap at a flying RC show about how he could bring himself to fly his very expensive jet that he had taken hundreds of hours on. He said that he put it away for many months until he had forgotten about the time and money he had spent on it. And he flew it like every flight would be its last.

Personally that's not for me. I just want a fun machine that I can fix up when it has an unplanned arrival. The Lanc looks like a one crash flyer unless you are lucky!
 

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