Discussion in 'Finance, Property, Law' started by annie1969, Sep 5, 2013.

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  1. We moved into this house in June, the house is three years old and was bought from receivers as the builder went bust. Luckily we have all the right certificates. The builder contacted me a few weeks ago to let me know that this house didn't get flushed and that the radiators may be cold when turned on for winter. I've since turned the heating on and a few of them arn't heating up right. Phoned Scottish Gas and quote for power flush £1, 500.00 (theres 18 radiators and two heated towel rails) the local biggish company has quoted £900. Two questions, does this need doing and for £700 difference what is Scottish Gas doing that the local guy isn't? Thanks for any help
  2. Bleed them yourself.

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  3. It's not bleeding them, it's flushing all the crap out, apparantly all new houses get done as all the builders and plumbers gunk gets into the pipes.
  4. Bleed them, see what happens. I can't imagine the builders and plumbers managed to fill them with old coke cans and sandwiches.

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  5. You get 'the name' with all the trust that does (or does not) go with it, compared to a local plumber.

    You can do it yourself: drain it by finding the valve at the lowest point, connect up a hosepipe so it drains out of the house, open the valve, and pour lots of water in the header tank. So says a bloke on the internet. Better, get the local plumber to do it...
  6. Been in a new build for near 20 years (not sure it still counts as such) and a) its never been done, b) the water is black and horrible when the radiators are bled and c) the central heating works fine.

    Sounds like a scam.
  7. Ha ha ha. Theres no valve outside anyway for whatever reason it drains from the boiler and Im not messing with that.
  8. See thats what I thought but spoke to a big builder I know and he says every new house gets power flushed
  9. Did he scratch his chin a bit?

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  10. No, but he did that whole look at the ground thing.....
  11. I’ve installed about a dozen replacement or completely new radiators in our house (“but doesn’t mean I’m an expert” disclaimer). Each new radiator says that it the system should be power flushed but I never have.

    I have on a number of occasions had to drain the system and used the opportunity to clean out the pipes by adding a cleaning agent a few days before I was to drain and then added an inhibitor whilst refilling. Each of these is about £15.00 from Screwfix.

    One radiator or the lowest easy access joint should have a drain valve on it. If not just adapt a connector to a length of hose and quickly swap (a bowl will be needed, and lots of towels!) it out with one of the pipes on said radiator. Then remove the bleeding valves from all the other radiators. If you have a header tank then close the tap first or the system will never drain. Once the pressure drops below minimum (usually about 1 bar) the boiler will automatically turn off, so if you have a comi boiler you will loose hot water whilst the central heating is drained.
    If the system didn’t have a drain valve, I’d add one whilst the system is drained for next time.
    To refill, replace all the bleed valves and remove the hose and connect that radiator back up. Turn on the tap to the header tank or if it is a closed system open the “top up” valve until the pressure reaches about two bar then go round the lowest radiators first and bleed the air out of them. Depending on how many radiators you have you may have to repeat this process a number of times. When full set the pressure (closed system) to about 1.5 bar which rises to 2 bar whilst the heating is on. Expect over the next couple of days for any air trapped in the system to migrate to your highest radiator and for your pressure to drop a couple of times. Keep checking and bleed all the radiators and top up the pressure when required. Depending on how often your heating comes on will depend on how quickly it settles down.

    This is where a real plumber comes on says that he’s surprised that I haven’t blown my house up!
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  12. Yup. Unless the system is bunged up, gravity draining should clear all the little bits. But rather than put the inhibitor in when refilling, I'd be tempted to run it with just clean water for 2-3 days, then repeat the process just to give the radiators a bit more of a flush. If the draining water is still a bit gungy, repeat again. Put the inhibitor in during the final filling.
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  13. The drain cock probably won't be outside. It should be at the lowest point of your system. Often it's near a door so that you only have to run a hose a short distance through the door. Sometimes it's at the end of a radiator.

    Drain cock:
    ...but it will be the other way up.

    or you might have one of these at the end of a radiator:
  14. It isn't coke cans and sandwiches that are the problem. The water passages in a radiator are small and can easily get clogged, leaving part of the radiator (usually the bottom) non-functional. Engineering hygiene on construction sites can be appalling and plumbing is very vulnerable, particularly at first fix. I would expect a developer to power flush a new central heating system as a standard part of commissioning and flushing would have been included in the specification of any decent plumbing contract on a new build. The bigger issue is that, if the system wasn't flushed, has it been properly commissioned at all?

    annie, you say have all the right certificates; these should cover commissioning the plumbing. If you have NHBC insurance, you should have a viable claim. If not, try these guys. They did a good job for me on an old system.

    Kamco power flushing & descaling pumps, chemicals & know-how
  15. NHBC insurance isn't worth the paper its written on.

    If the original builders had signed up to the scheme and subsequently went bust then NHBC will offer you some patronising words before hanging up the phone.

    The absolute *****.
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