Plasterboard Repairs

Discussion in 'DIY' started by B_AND_T, Mar 26, 2013.

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  1. B_AND_T

    B_AND_T LE Book Reviewer

    My darling children have managed to put a number of holes in the plasterboard, which in all fairness is slightly thicker than a Rizla.

    Any recommendations on how to repair it?
  2. Plaster board is a very cheap material so the easiest thing to do would be to pull the existing piece off and replace it.

    There are other considerations to look at though. For instance, where is it and is it easy to do that and also what sort of finish was on it. Was it just painted or papered over or was it skimmed.
  3. B_AND_T

    B_AND_T LE Book Reviewer

    It was just painted over.

    Flat pack housing at it's best.
  4. Just plaster over it and sand down/repaint?

    Hang a picture over the dent?

    Get your kids to draw "amusing and naive" works of art using the dent as the center piece?

    Stand tall funiture in front of it.

    Hire one of the gazzillions of homeless/unemployed/immigrant/big issue sellers to stand in front of it?

    Paint over the windows with black paint and never turn the lights on in that room.

    Hope this helps.
  5. If it is fairly small, you could put something square over the hole, pencil round it, then using a Stanley knife, cut into the board at 45 degrees until you can remove it.

    Then cut a similar piece to fit the hole, with a slight gap around, butter the edges with filler, then push gently into place, rub down with sandpaper when dry.
  6. TheresaMay

    TheresaMay LE Moderator DirtyBAT

    Plasterboard is one of the easiest materials to work with...

    What you need to do first is examine the hole and determine its size - if it's a small one, then standard Polyfilla will do the trick. If it's say any bigger than 2cm then you're looking at cutting out a square around the damage being careful not to cut into any supporting stud (wood baton) behind the drywall.

    Provided it's standard drywall (and not moisture resistant etc) - you can buy a 'hobby piece' from B&Q (or most other DIY outlets), and stick it in your car - and cut it to the right size using a Stanley knife. You need to ensure the piece you cut to fill the whole leaves a small (1-2mm) gap around it when fitted.

    Using a baton of wood slightly larger than the length or width of the whole, using instant grab adhesive apply a blob on the ends of it that will go behind the wall either side of the edge. Then feed the baton through and pull it against the wall. Allow to dry and you now have a baton in place to mount your repair section.

    Apply instant grab adhesive it to your square repair piece (the side WITH the writing on it) and press into place, leaving an even gap around it. Again, allow to dry, before applying Polyfilla into the gap and feathering out about an inch either side. Allow to dry and sand down. To reduce any uneven areas, apply plastertape over where the gap should be and apply a coat of plaster repair over the tape, again feathering out either side of the square. Allow to dry before sanding with reducing lighter grain paper.

    Colour match your paint finish and apply. Job done.

    **For clarification there's a number of youtube vids on plasterboard repairs. There's an excellent one featuring some Austrailian dude which is pretty good and I found most helpful.
  7. TheresaMay

    TheresaMay LE Moderator DirtyBAT

    Here's one I did recently.

    The bottom of the drywall had become damaged, so I cut it right back as it was going to be supporting a rad - then cut a new piece to shape and slotted it in.

    The second picture is after applying the first level of repair. After this dried, I applied the plasterboard tape over the seams, covered with plaster repair and now it's just about to be painted - and you can no longer tell it's two separate pieces of drywall.

    And this will be the first time I've dabbled in drywall.

    Attached Files:

  8. B_AND_T

    B_AND_T LE Book Reviewer

    Thanks DC you make it sound simple, give it a try the weekend.
  9. TheresaMay

    TheresaMay LE Moderator DirtyBAT

    One last thing...

    When you cut plasterboard using a blade, basically it's like cutting tiles - you mark it out, then using a straight edge, score with the blade (enough to go through the paper) and into the plaster. Then using an edge (such as the end of your kitchen worktop) align your score over the edge, and give it a short, sharp push and it'll break nice and even. Don't forget to hold the bit that's not supported.

    Then all that remains is to flip it over, and cut though the paper on the other side.

    Cutting corners however, will either require a little patience with the blade, or a specific jigsaw blade from the DIY store.
  10. If they're small holes, Polyfilla.

    If they're a bit bigger, get some plasterboard.

    Cut the damage into a rectangular hole and cut the new plasterboard (henceforth called "patch" to avoid confusion) to the same dimensions less a couple of millimetres.

    Hold strips of timber onto the back of the plasterboard and screw into them through the surrounding plasterboard to hold them in place. The size of the timber isn't important but it's best if they're long enough to fully span the hole and screwed at both ends.

    Put the patch into the hole and screw through it into the timbers. All screws should be bugle head plasterboard screws, length twice the thickness of the plasterboard, and screwed in just below the surface.

    Polyfilla the joint and over the screws. If the patch ends up a bit recessed, skim over it with Polyfilla. If it sticks out, rasp it down and tidy up with Polyfilla.

    The instructions are for a single thickness of plasterboard. If you have two thicknesses, you need to repair both! - it'll be a fire protection requirement. Same idea but cut a larger hole in the facing plasterboard so that you end up with two patches, one over the other, overlapping by at least an inch on each side.

    While you can use a hacksaw blade to cut the plasterboard, if you're faced with repairing a double thickness, the larger, outer hole is best cut with a Stanley knife held against a steel rule - but make sure that you're holding the steel rule with a thick leather glove. It saves clearing the blood off the wall and floor.

    It really is a lot easier to do than to explain.
  11. B_AND_T

    B_AND_T LE Book Reviewer

    Are you free the weekend, I'll supply the beer.
  12. You just want me to hold the steel rule while you do the cutting. Forget it.
  13. B_AND_T

    B_AND_T LE Book Reviewer

    No, I want you to do it all so I can listen to the football.