One for the Landy experts

Discussion in 'DIY' started by stanley_bomb_squad, Jan 9, 2011.

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  1. I’ve just gone out on a test drive after replacing my front wheel bearing on my 97 Disco. Front end seems fine but as I set off there was a horrible noise a selection of grinding and squeaking from the back end of the car. ABS light is also stuck on, I had assumed that this was to do with the front bearing as it came on when that went.

    Jacked her up and rear bearings are both fine no play at all. I’ve jumped up and down on the tow hook and suspension seems fine and the noise doesn’t get any worse when you go over pot holes/speed bumps nor does it happen if stationary and he engine is revved.

    I’m now thinking something to do with the brake callipers and checked to see if the pads have dropped through the calliper but there’s no scoring on the hub any other suggestions more than welcome.
     
  2. Presume your disco has traction control(TC)? when you had a look at the back was either wheel hot? could be tc on on one side or sometimes when abs system "thinks" it's loosing grip it will take action. If the system is opreating normally then the tc light will come on when you are driving and loosing grip. Great system when working. If you have replced a front wheel bearing did you press the abs sensor down in it's housing. Its worth going round all 4 and doing this as at the age of your disco they tend to move out.
    mostly due to very slight wheel bearing play+ gromits that hold em in getting "tired". N.B. Correct dashboard light sequence on start up is brake warning light,abs light, tc light on. Then only abs light, then abs light off after going foward at over 5mph. Ho and in my experiance just because the abs light is on it may or may not be working! I tells yer landies are alive! BTW anyone know of cheap diognostic tool for RR classics and Disco 1's out there?
     
  3. Nope no traction control she's getting on a bit now :)
    The brakes could do with a better bleeding on the front tbh so maybe this is the abs fault??

    Both drums are cold when I've checked as are the discs.
    I've had the suspect side up and the wheel turns, calliper is clear and nothing rubs.
    I have noticed a few cracks in the donut and it squeaks when the wheel turns, could this be the clonking grinding noise?
     
  4. Donut usually vibration and clunks. Actully you reminded me to check mine. Not near my manuals at mo but I have a late model disco es I use for spares on my RR clssic (1996). Both exact same wabco system I.e. no servo and has tc.
    Just suspect it may be an Abs fault as you have been working on a hub. System a bit like teeth after a visit to dentest takes a while to settle down! sounds daft I know but it,s an odd system designed for trucks.
    I had a wheel caliper sticking on after some work (not the one I worked on). thought I had a stone or slipped pad in disc. grinding and squeeling. Then noticed tc light on. did the 1st thing you should always do on a slab from solihull turned off waited ten started again and all fine. Keep us informed I'm interested. 1st thing to do though. Go round all abs sensors on wheels and just push themin with your finger. dont strain yourself just untill you feel it move. Thats the most common fix for abs light which is an mot fail even if it passes the brake test.
     
  5. I'm not too worried about the ABS, MOT is in the summer and I'll play with the sensors when we get some nice weather (along with the other list of jobs).

    Clonk and squeaks get worse the longer you drive and I've only been doing slow local trips since the bearings went.

    I've decided to replace the donut and UJ since the prop is going to come off. On my slow trip home tonight I was pretty happy thats roughly where the noise is from, to me that kinda makes sense if its the rubber. Cold and stiff at first and warms up getting looser and noisier. Of course I could well be trying to make the map fit the ground :)

    Having said that when I was limping home at 40 with the knackered bearing the back end was all over the place and I put the vibrations down to the front end problem.

    Hopefully by the end of the week I can report that that particular noise has gone.
     
  6. OOO I love landys don't you! Obviously only man on the spot an sort this out. But....If your a bit wobbly at the back check the drag arm bushes particulary where they connect to the chassis. Really you need to have her on a ramp jacked up on the chassis with a 5foot prybar in hand to do a bit of pushing to see any sloppyness and a cup of tea near by. By all means do the prop shaft (getting at some of the nuts is a bit of a git) the parts are cheap as chips (I always look on rimers 1st then expect to get it for a 3rd less else where)and straight foward (do as per book or look at landie sites). BTW did a wheel bearing fail? What was that like? One of mine is wining and frankly I'm on a game of brinkmanship with it. Want to see if the note changes on the whine!!! (had a triumph dolomite where I had to change the bearing when it was just to loud to bear).
     
  7. Odd innit. You'd think REME types with the Landy perversion would be trawling this bit wouldnt you :)

    Well a friend of a friend who happens to be an AA man had a quick look for me.
    I say look, he rocked up, I described the symptoms at the back and and what I thought it was and he said its exactly what he was going to say.

    Picked up a GKN donut kit off Foundry4x4 and some new UJs, as no doubt if I didnt have them and took the prop off it'd need replacing.
    Once the rain has eased I'll be out laying under her and swearing.

    As for the bearing.
    It was a similar deal for me. Been ignoring the squeak for about a week, obviously it was hard to tell em apart, and when I jacked her up and gave the wheel a push it wasnt half as bad as it was when I replaced the same one in the summer, though no noises then.

    When it did fail it was pretty spectacular, well from where was sitting.

    Felt like a tray had lodged under the wheel and it'd stuck and skidded. Then it let go with a bang and that felt like the 'tray' had let go and clattered off under the chassis.
    I did think I'd hit something in the dark and pulled over to check for damage.
    Then it was crap handling and so on.
     
  8. Ta for that Re bearing. Mine has been whining like a wife with an old hoover. Actually you got me paranoid. Did a 180m trip yesterday and felt every vibration going. Tell me how you get on as I will be doing the same if you get a cure. THe only time I have had wandering was when the nut on the UJ on the link arm to the steering box was loose. went through an mot as well. found it when looking for oil leak!
    As for REME. Do you honestly think they would help? I'm not ex mil but have had a fair bit of contact + family In and out.Thought REME motto was DONNO. BTW Have you tackled rust yet? Rear floor and Wheel arches?
     
  9. I have met the odd VM who actually had a clue how to fix things, when they werent being paranoid about their tools being clean and placed in exactly the right spot in the drawer.

    Just waiting for the new prop shaft to arrive now....dont ask. And that comes with the donut so theres a handy kit I dont need anymore.

    And what genius at Solihull rummaged around in the parts bin and pulled out 9/16" bolts?? I followed one of the landy sites advice that said you dont need the special tool just a 14mm spanner. 2 nuts came off, one needed the irwin kit to shift and the other was looking like a cutting job til I found a youtube vid that some nice bloke did where he actually tells you its imperial and the sizes.
    So no you dont have to spend 20 quid on a tool you just need to find that old socket set the you got years ago that has imperial stuff in it.
    Double hex imp socket and the last one came off easily. Now I only need to replace the shagged imperial nylocs which so far I havent found locally.

    New propshaft is due today thanks to Island 4x4 so depending on when that arrives and if I can get the nuts I may be mobile today, that'll be 20 days since this whole new learning experience started....
     
  10. Well the nasty clonk as gone away and I now have a shiney new propshaft that I didnt need a week ago.
    However the nasty grinding and squealing is still present, but then it was when I was driving in 2WD with the diff lock on.
    So next step will be to check/replace the rear wheel bearings, there is a slight amount of play in the rear passenger side one. They were all done with britpart ones last year so I'm assuming that the just in case Timken ones will be getting fitted on friday.

    I'm also going to dump and replace the oil in the rear diff just incase its full off teeth and something else expensive needs replacing :(
     
  11. How are you getting on Stanley. Still bumping and grinding? Interested in what you said about the clonk going. Did you get a clonk when you went into reverse or just normal road usage. Ho and hows that nice shiney abs light. did you find out if you had traction control(if you have the light is on the right side of the cluster I think. I have known the bulb to be removed if their is a fault).
     
  12. Now where did I leave this tale of woe?

    So shiny new prop and donut and off I go with guess what?.....A slight grinding noise from rear wheel, the only remaining shitpart bearing on the bloody thing.
    So a new set of Timken ones ordered and another week of waiting for bits to arrive before I can fit em next time I'm off.
    Bits arrive and off I go expecting a nice 30mins job.....no sodding chance.
    Bearing race had welded itself onto the stub axle so I end up grinding out the side of the race with the dremmel to get the rollers out so I can get the wheel hub off.

    Then it's out with the blow lamp to crack the race off the axle. Nothing.

    A bead of weld around the race gets tried next all with the use of big hammers and a frequently sharpened cold chisel. Again the race doesnt really think I'm serious.

    So normal landy tool the grinder comes out. I'm now thinking if I carefully grind through the race then tension will be released and it'll come off. One side taken care off and nothing, another side ground down and now theres more space than metal and even with me stood on the end of a stilson the bloody thing is still laughing at me. I would have had more chance of turning the waggon onto its roof than breaking the grip the race had on the stub axle.

    So I give up and order a new stub axle and a few other bits. I'm away that week with work so when I return I expect to find the new part there ready to stick on. You can probably imagine what actually happened.

    I contact the firm Friday afternoon asking where the hell my stuff is and the tell me that part of my order (not the stub axle though) is on back order so they havent sent anything nor bothered to tell me. I suggest what they may like to do with my order and go back to good old Kent 4x4 who get the bits to me by tuesday.

    It was then just over an hour to stick all the new bits on and she's now running fine.

    Main lesson learned there is DO NOT BUY BRITPART bearings. Everyone of em packed up at the same time and I reckon the donut just came out in sympathy.
    ABS light was fine once the last buggered bearing was replaced and disapears as it should.
     
  13. TheIronDuke

    TheIronDuke LE Book Reviewer

    Heh. For when you want your patriotism to hurt - Land Rover.

    Landrovernet is a great place for advice *Link thing* and friendly - a fair few ARRSErs on there. I've seen a few times where local people have offered to come round and help sort a problem.
     
  14. Spot on about brit parts! Indias finest will always let you down. I have a 2.5 in a 2a. Replaced a cam gear wheel with BP item. less than 500 miles later it split in two. Lucky for me it was just on tickover. Bent pushrods and a chipped tappet. Didn't want to take the head off so got away with a landie fix. Opened up a metal pen cap a bit and put that on the end of the pushrod. Tappet works fine.

    Rangie working a bit hard at the mo but will have to do something with the boot floor soon as it's nearly not there. Rear dif oil seal a bit leaky as well.

    As for patriotism. Bugger that. As a company LR my be a bunch of fashion followers now but the basics of the design make em the best. Especially pre 2000 stuff. I live mostly in the wilds. no other stuff comes near and I count the newer landie stuff in there as well. Friends RR sport kept falling off the road in the bad ice around christmas. Though I think the gizmos get you a tad over confident for the conditions. toyotas' rangers and any other pseudo landie doesn't do it. The good bits on landies break because they are well used not because they are crap. And that takes me back to Brit part.....
     
  15. TheIronDuke

    TheIronDuke LE Book Reviewer

    Heh. Just before we escaped to warmer climes before Christmas I was doing the road from the old St. Mary's nut-house back to the A1. Coming round a bend in hard snow and ice, I saw a big Toyota job with blacked out windows coming my way. He panicked for some reason and hit the brakes. Straight into a 3' ditch covered by 6' of snow. I sat there for a few minutes as he pushed buttons and spun his wheels, then I got out, attached a 3 ton ratchet strop to the tow bar, pulled him out then fucked off smiling.