My nipples are stuck.

#1
Perhaps that made you titter ...

Anyway, Remington 1858 cap and ball revolver. Nipples are stuck in the cylinder. They normally come out quite nicely but these are stuck in and the nipple key feels like it is deforming as I twist.

So, I'm soaking in a mix of WD40 and white spirit for a few days, dry off and then apply a little heat. Anyone else got any further tips, experience or pitfalls? Beside don't do it again...
 
#3
You need to use heat resistant grease on them.. either the copper loaded grease you used to use for spark plugs or Gorilla grease from Thompson Centre... (though don't buy it from Amazon UK...!)
 
#4
#5
You need to use heat resistant grease on them.. either the copper loaded grease you used to use for spark plugs or Gorilla grease from Thompson Centre... (though don't buy it from Amazon UK...!)
Cheers, I read somewhere (reloading or muzzle loading forum) copper grease was not a good idea. Which I thought it would have been, in moderation. I've just checked Gorilla grease, seems like the puppy. Why not Amazon UK?
 
#7
If your current liquids fail try immersing cylinder in diesel,if that fails try freezing as I had to do with a tubular mag once.Dont know if this will affect temper or whatever.Ive seen on utube blokes using an inverted small socket extention if the size is correct
 
#8
Cheers, I read somewhere (reloading or muzzle loading forum) copper grease was not a good idea. Which I thought it would have been, in moderation. I've just checked Gorilla grease, seems like the puppy. Why not Amazon UK?

£47.95 for a 1/4oz tube....!

be my guest, but I would suggest they have their decimal point in the wrong place...

EBay: Thompson Center® Gorilla Grease™ Muzzleloader Anti-Seize Compound 1/4 oz - 7356

looks better!

I have been using copper grease in moderation for years.. it seems to do the job! I remember someone saying not to use copper, but whatever the reason they gave at the time, it made no sense, so I ignored it! This is exactly what copper loaded grease is designed to do!

A thin copper washer under the nipple in a rifle also helps in cases where the nipple sits too deeply in the bolster and blocks the flash.. Krank sells them...
 
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#10
I use Wonder Lube 1000 + not just as a patch lube but also for the nipples on my R&S revolver, does the job. Although the flame temperature of black powder is allegedly 2000 C, the actual amount of heat is nothing compared to NC powders. Even 6 shots rapid only result in a mildly warm cylinder, therefore I don't see the need for heat resistant grease.
 
#11
For removal I would suggest a hex socket of the closest size on a 1/4" drive wrench. Two steel bars close to calibre can be inserted in the front of two opposite cylinders and clamped in the bench vice. You should then be able to apply enough torque without damage.

Soaking in graphited penetrating oil or something like PlusGas for a day or two might help. If this can be in an ultrasonic parts bath then all the better.

I don't kjow enough about black powder to consider whether copper grease is a good prophylactic but in general mineral oils and greases are best kept away from propellants.

beeswax or candlewax might be an option.
 
#12
Try Coca Cola, works brilliantly with seized pistons in motors, doesn't harm the metal. My perfect release agent is dieso/kero 50:50, perfect general light oil, gd cutting fluid drilling tapping etc, and keeps the lathe bob on.
 
#13
For removal I would suggest a hex socket of the closest size on a 1/4" drive wrench. Two steel bars close to calibre can be inserted in the front of two opposite cylinders and clamped in the bench vice. You should then be able to apply enough torque without damage.

Soaking in graphited penetrating oil or something like PlusGas for a day or two might help. If this can be in an ultrasonic parts bath then all the better.

I don't kjow enough about black powder to consider whether copper grease is a good prophylactic but in general mineral oils and greases are best kept away from propellants.

beeswax or candlewax might be an option.
I like the vice clamping method.
I'm not going to get a socket on them due to the position and 'shape' of the nipples but I take on board your note on minerals.
 
#18
So OK @flieslikeabeagle explain why you disagree with using copper anti seize or gorilla grease on percussion nipple thread..?

Nipple threads are not that fine and needs something to stop the crud getting in and jamming them.. normal grease is too soft and just gets blown out. You need a loaded grease that leaves a lubricating residue. The flame that comes back from even a black powder chamber is very abrasive and will cut into threads or vents over time. The vents on old percussion guns were often lined with platinum to reduce this wear. You should always take out the nipples and clean them after shooting as some cap residues are quite corrosive (be very careful if you are using old or foreign caps as some still have chlorides in them..).

Nipple wrenches are not that difficult to make if you have access to a lathe. They are basically a tube with a slot cut in them. You need to make sure the prongs are reasonably tough as they need to withstand a fair torque. I make them out out of EN3 and case harden or Silver steel hardened and tempered to blue.. (same as a screwdriver). The Italian wrenches sold by the likes of Krank are often too loose and/or soft to be useful...
 
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