BaldBaBoon
War Hero

I had the opportunity to run a Metropolitan Police stand at the EXCEL motorcycle show the other month for the three days, to offer advice in regards to bike security and for joe public to ask relevant and not so relevant questions . This was a very much a last minute.com affair that only had myself and another officer manning it, next to the far more glitzy and bigger BIKESAFE stand that that was concerned with bike riding and courses.
From the non-stop, large numbers of people visiting the stand. I can only hope that we gave some useful advice to the many people who apparently had a very basic idea of bike security if at all. There was a large percentage of moped riders who required advice and a surprising number of motorcycle riders as well. We also talked people through legislation in regards to common law and showed some of the new liquid DNA launchers that are used to tag riders as well as showcase the new pursuit bikes being used to pursue mopeds.
Disclaimer.
1) I know how infuriated the average motorcycle/moped rider is about the state of bike thefts and the criminal offences being utilized by bikes. I have ridden bikes for 30 years and still do approx 40,000 miles annual on my own bikes, using them to travel into London for work and for my own purposes. I detest the current policies around the theft of bikes and engagement and pursuits.
I cannot change the policies, I just have to deal with the shit situation and ever increasing amounts of people who have had their machines stolen caused by pathetic regulations and legislations.
2) This is my own advice from experience and not official Met police advice
Security Advice for mopeds and motorcycles. This is for a serious attempt to take it, not kids buggering about when parked up on holiday in spain for example
BASICS
1) Steering locks are utterly worthless on both mopeds and motorcycles. Often a single good kick is enough to destroy the small metal lug that is mounted onto the headstock of your machine. If this was the only security being used on your bike at the time, then the criminals will then be able to simply roll your machine away, or as is often seen, they will have another moped or bike that will be used to push the stolen machine to an area of their choosing.Even if you immediately recover your machine, there is a very high chance that the frame/headstock will now be fractured ....essentially you will now need to replace your frame.
2) Actually fit security. The amount of stolen machines that have had little or no security used at the time they were taken is staggering. If there are two identical bikes parked up, one with a £20 disc lock and one with no disc lock...guess which one will get taken?
3) Be paranoid. Do park your bike in a public area that is busy, with streetlamps and over looked by houses or business, Street CCTV or street vendors if you can. Take note if your area is an area targeted by bike thieves or you see the common sight of a couple mopeds, two up, patrolling around and looking at bikes and cars. Inform workmates which is your bike.
If you do have to park in the same area each day, for work. Try to alternate where you park your bike, fit multiple security like a chain and padlock and a disc lock and maybe a bike cover.
4) Do not leave your chains where you park. Its not uncommon for chains that have sleeves to be tampered with if left overnight. The sleeve is untagged to expose the actual chain which is then partially cut....the sleeve reattached, and when you attach it to your bike as normal, the thieves pay a visit and spend 5 seconds cutting through the last bit of metal. Padlocks are super glued up to stop you using them, anticipating that you will be made late for work and lave your bike ( now ) unlocked
DEVICES
1) Throttle lever locks. These are small clamps that lock around your grips and grab your brake lever to stop anyone moving the bike. Small and cheap and easily carried. useful for a short stop if your near to the bike.
Major Flaw with this design is you can simply do several things to totally bypass it. The bike lever can be cut through or removed, your bikes front brake lines can be cut and the bike simply rolled or pushed away.
2) Front disc lock. Various designs, some hugely more effective than others, these are effective to stop an opportunist thief, but not one equipped with tools. The theory is that the bike cannot be rolled away as the front wheel will not rotate due to the disc lock, fitted through the brake disc, hitting the fork stanchion of disc calipers.
A determined thief can bypass these quite easily. Your front wheel is held on by ( normally ) a single axle bolt and 4 caliper bolts for the brakes. A spare wheel can often be attained for the machines to be stolen, the bolts removed, disc locked wheel left at scene, the spare wheel fitted and the bike taken...a common tactic with mopeds. With motorcycles, this tactic would be used as the thief would have done a recce on your bike first and noted its security and because you park it in the same place and in the same way, every day.
A quicker method used for high value bikes, is to just use a grinder to cut straight through the brake disc itself,where the lock is fitted, they have lost the £100 sale of a front disc but have now got a £15,000 sportsbike to sell for spares. Cheap locks do not stand up well to being hammered by a lump hammer either.
3) Disc lock through rear Disc. Same disc lock as the front, but now you have fitted it to the rear disc of the bike or if the spaces are big enough, placed on the sprocket carrier for the chain. Numerous positions you can get disc lock into that make it exceptionally hard for someone to try to hammer or grind the lock off without damaging the bike and making it unrideable. You can use the bikes architecture to hinder tampering, by placing the lock in an especially awkward position.
Its very hard to do a quick change of a rear wheel and a lot more logistics to attain one for a swap, but not unheard of for a high value bike.
4) Good quality Chain and Padlock. I regard this as the minimum that should be fitted onto a bike due to the thieving population we seem to have grown. Huge amount to choose from in different lengths and gauges and types of padlock.
A chain through and around the front wheel is a very good deterrent.
,A chain through the back wheel is a vastly better deterrent.
A chain through the back wheel and attached to something that doesn't move is really getting there.
1) Do not let the chain pool onto the floor, if the chain is quite long for example, this enables a thief to work against the chain by using the floor as a working surface and makes their job easier.
2) Waste the spare length of chain by wrapping it several times around the wheel or buying it to length, if its a long chain and is attached to something, try to have the chain semi-suspended as this robs the energy out of a kinetic attack against the chain by the chain moving. If you bike has pannier racks or crash bars, try to have the chain go through these at some point...same theory to have the chain suspended but with a little slack to absorb impact.
3) Obviously try to avoid having the padlock on the floor.
4) Read and do research. Many good magazines that do product test on security devices, RIDE MAGAZINE for example, do not be swayed by shiney stickers and price alone. I personally use several chain and padlock's called MAMMOTH, that is a Thatcham approved chain, its affordable and in the right length is easily always carried on my bike, the padlock is also designed to hamper any attempt to get a grinder or bolt cropper onto it. I carry a smaller length chain for being out and about and have longer chains for locking the bike up at home.
From the non-stop, large numbers of people visiting the stand. I can only hope that we gave some useful advice to the many people who apparently had a very basic idea of bike security if at all. There was a large percentage of moped riders who required advice and a surprising number of motorcycle riders as well. We also talked people through legislation in regards to common law and showed some of the new liquid DNA launchers that are used to tag riders as well as showcase the new pursuit bikes being used to pursue mopeds.
Disclaimer.
1) I know how infuriated the average motorcycle/moped rider is about the state of bike thefts and the criminal offences being utilized by bikes. I have ridden bikes for 30 years and still do approx 40,000 miles annual on my own bikes, using them to travel into London for work and for my own purposes. I detest the current policies around the theft of bikes and engagement and pursuits.
I cannot change the policies, I just have to deal with the shit situation and ever increasing amounts of people who have had their machines stolen caused by pathetic regulations and legislations.
2) This is my own advice from experience and not official Met police advice
Security Advice for mopeds and motorcycles. This is for a serious attempt to take it, not kids buggering about when parked up on holiday in spain for example
BASICS
1) Steering locks are utterly worthless on both mopeds and motorcycles. Often a single good kick is enough to destroy the small metal lug that is mounted onto the headstock of your machine. If this was the only security being used on your bike at the time, then the criminals will then be able to simply roll your machine away, or as is often seen, they will have another moped or bike that will be used to push the stolen machine to an area of their choosing.Even if you immediately recover your machine, there is a very high chance that the frame/headstock will now be fractured ....essentially you will now need to replace your frame.
2) Actually fit security. The amount of stolen machines that have had little or no security used at the time they were taken is staggering. If there are two identical bikes parked up, one with a £20 disc lock and one with no disc lock...guess which one will get taken?
3) Be paranoid. Do park your bike in a public area that is busy, with streetlamps and over looked by houses or business, Street CCTV or street vendors if you can. Take note if your area is an area targeted by bike thieves or you see the common sight of a couple mopeds, two up, patrolling around and looking at bikes and cars. Inform workmates which is your bike.
If you do have to park in the same area each day, for work. Try to alternate where you park your bike, fit multiple security like a chain and padlock and a disc lock and maybe a bike cover.
4) Do not leave your chains where you park. Its not uncommon for chains that have sleeves to be tampered with if left overnight. The sleeve is untagged to expose the actual chain which is then partially cut....the sleeve reattached, and when you attach it to your bike as normal, the thieves pay a visit and spend 5 seconds cutting through the last bit of metal. Padlocks are super glued up to stop you using them, anticipating that you will be made late for work and lave your bike ( now ) unlocked
DEVICES
1) Throttle lever locks. These are small clamps that lock around your grips and grab your brake lever to stop anyone moving the bike. Small and cheap and easily carried. useful for a short stop if your near to the bike.
Major Flaw with this design is you can simply do several things to totally bypass it. The bike lever can be cut through or removed, your bikes front brake lines can be cut and the bike simply rolled or pushed away.
2) Front disc lock. Various designs, some hugely more effective than others, these are effective to stop an opportunist thief, but not one equipped with tools. The theory is that the bike cannot be rolled away as the front wheel will not rotate due to the disc lock, fitted through the brake disc, hitting the fork stanchion of disc calipers.
A determined thief can bypass these quite easily. Your front wheel is held on by ( normally ) a single axle bolt and 4 caliper bolts for the brakes. A spare wheel can often be attained for the machines to be stolen, the bolts removed, disc locked wheel left at scene, the spare wheel fitted and the bike taken...a common tactic with mopeds. With motorcycles, this tactic would be used as the thief would have done a recce on your bike first and noted its security and because you park it in the same place and in the same way, every day.
A quicker method used for high value bikes, is to just use a grinder to cut straight through the brake disc itself,where the lock is fitted, they have lost the £100 sale of a front disc but have now got a £15,000 sportsbike to sell for spares. Cheap locks do not stand up well to being hammered by a lump hammer either.
3) Disc lock through rear Disc. Same disc lock as the front, but now you have fitted it to the rear disc of the bike or if the spaces are big enough, placed on the sprocket carrier for the chain. Numerous positions you can get disc lock into that make it exceptionally hard for someone to try to hammer or grind the lock off without damaging the bike and making it unrideable. You can use the bikes architecture to hinder tampering, by placing the lock in an especially awkward position.
Its very hard to do a quick change of a rear wheel and a lot more logistics to attain one for a swap, but not unheard of for a high value bike.
4) Good quality Chain and Padlock. I regard this as the minimum that should be fitted onto a bike due to the thieving population we seem to have grown. Huge amount to choose from in different lengths and gauges and types of padlock.
A chain through and around the front wheel is a very good deterrent.
,A chain through the back wheel is a vastly better deterrent.
A chain through the back wheel and attached to something that doesn't move is really getting there.
1) Do not let the chain pool onto the floor, if the chain is quite long for example, this enables a thief to work against the chain by using the floor as a working surface and makes their job easier.
2) Waste the spare length of chain by wrapping it several times around the wheel or buying it to length, if its a long chain and is attached to something, try to have the chain semi-suspended as this robs the energy out of a kinetic attack against the chain by the chain moving. If you bike has pannier racks or crash bars, try to have the chain go through these at some point...same theory to have the chain suspended but with a little slack to absorb impact.
3) Obviously try to avoid having the padlock on the floor.
4) Read and do research. Many good magazines that do product test on security devices, RIDE MAGAZINE for example, do not be swayed by shiney stickers and price alone. I personally use several chain and padlock's called MAMMOTH, that is a Thatcham approved chain, its affordable and in the right length is easily always carried on my bike, the padlock is also designed to hamper any attempt to get a grinder or bolt cropper onto it. I carry a smaller length chain for being out and about and have longer chains for locking the bike up at home.