Mondeo rear disc brakes-Haynes guide confusing

#1
I am looking to save myself some money and replace rear discs and pads on my Mk2 Mondeo. It's an old car, but in excellent condition having been regularly serviced and garaged and it's a Ghia model with all the gadgets and trim and the mileage is low. I'm not planning on getting rid of it for a few years yet. The car is still driveable but a garage recently replaced my front discs and pads which were looked like they'd been machine gunned to death, and guessed that my rear brakes will go in 1 to 2 months. I use this garage regularly and the mechanic is also a MOT inspector, and has been spot on about component failure in the past.

The Haynes guide is confusing me.

I've got:

New discs and pads
Axle stands and a trolley jack
Various sized spanners and ratchet spanners
Pliers
Large screwdriver

Do I need:
Torque wrench
Hose clamps (although I shouldn't need to disconnect any hoses)
Chocks
Proprietary tool for pads?
C-Clamp

I will not be servicing the calliper. Just replacing the pads.

Any advice please. Thinking of tackling this tomorrow or boxing day.
 
#2
Torque wrench- Depends on how adept you are; are you likely to shear bolts or not tighten them enough? DS answer is to use one although personally I wouldn't bother.

Hose clamps- Only if you're breaking into the hydraulic system

Chocks- You won't need on the flat if you have axle stands and a trolley jack, just be carefull.

Proprietary tool- Used to reset brake pads; pistons either push or screw back in. Depending on the level of corrosion they may be a little stiff. It will be possible to achieve without, it just may be more difficult. Sometimes the caliper needs to be removed in order to push them in using a vice see "Hose clamps".

C-Clamp- You need to get the pistons back in somehow, this is probably the trickiest part of the job depending on how stiff they are, you can use a hammer handle(or similar) plus bodyweight, a clamp, a vice, a press. This will probably be the biggest nause and could see you needing to remove the calipers. Ensure you have a bleed kit and know how to use it if this happens.
 
#3
you normally torque the calipers back onto the hub carrier, make sure you use threadlock and copper slip grease where necessary.

Also make sure you have bungee or rope in order to suspend the calipers.

If you piston unwinds/releases how are you going to push it back in? old pad and a g cramp, or do you have the wind back tool?
 
#4
Thinking of adding a wind back tool to the list.

Found a cheap torque wrench that should do the job too. I've got threadlock and copper slip grease. Thanks for the reminder.

Spaz, I think I'm gonna need chocks. The Haynes manual says release the handbrake, because the cable is nearby and gets in the way if it's on. Also just had a look at the ground and it does have a very slight incline for drainage.

(Got plenty of bungees, whipping cadets, Merseyside AIs for the use of, quelle surprise.)
 
#5
If it's front wheel drive just put it in gear, once secure on the stands it's unlikely to move. Also lay the wheels flat underneath the car and don't put any part of your body that you like between the bottom of the disc and the floor.
 
#6
its fwd so you could leave it in gear, but once jacked up will you be using an axle stand?
 
#7
Spaz is a Spaz.

Always block a front wheel in both directions when lifting the rear. (There is no parking brake in front) Always block a wheel in both directions unless you have a lift which raises the entire car.

And the rear caliper pistons are rotated back in with the caliper tool ( basically a cube with different bits on each face to match different pistons that attaches to a ratchet ). The modern rear caliper pistons rotate out as the pads wear to maintain position for the parking brake function. You turn them back in when replacing pads.

Edited to add... and Parking Pawls in transmissions (and especially old transaxles) like to fail at the most inopportune times, without warning. Park is just neutral with a wedge of metal with a few shallow notches on it to lock the gear. Once it's ready to go the rest of the metal left will simply shear off under stress (like when parked on a hill without the parking brake, or on trestles with you underneath it).
 

phil245

LE
Book Reviewer
#10
Mothman. The best advice I can give you is to jack up the roof-rack and run a new car underneath.
 
#11
you'll need to drop the caliper off, don't let it hang by the hose, hence the need for a bit of wire coat hanger or bungee, the caliper pistons will wind back, the ham fisted method is to use a large pair of mole grips to turn the piston but mind the rubber dust seal, the correct method is a piston wind back tool, take off the master cylinder cap before doing this, the back flow of fluid can invert the master cylinder piston seals. Place some rags round the cylinder to catch any fluid, the level will raise as the pistons are wound back in
the discs may be held with a countersunk grub screw, this can be a bastard to get out, its really only there to hold the disc steady during reassembly, it wont make any difference if its left off when you put it all back to gether, use thread lock on the caliper bolts and copper grease, a smear of copper grease on the back of the pads.
 
#13
you'll need to drop the caliper off, don't let it hang by the hose, hence the need for a bit of wire coat hanger or bungee, the caliper pistons will wind back, the ham fisted method is to use a large pair of mole grips to turn the piston but mind the rubber dust seal, the correct method is a piston wind back tool, take off the master cylinder cap before doing this, the back flow of fluid can invert the master cylinder piston seals. Place some rags round the cylinder to catch any fluid, the level will raise as the pistons are wound back in
the discs may be held with a countersunk grub screw, this can be a bastard to get out, its really only there to hold the disc steady during reassembly, it wont make any difference if its left off when you put it all back to gether, use thread lock on the caliper bolts and copper grease, a smear of copper grease on the back of the pads.
The worst bit of the job, fighting with that ****** generally.
 
#14
Having done this more than once on Mondeos (and replaced seized calipers for which they are renowned for), as well as Zafiras and Skodas, I would recommend you don't attempt without the wind-back tool for rear brakes. You'll turn the air blue without it. There are some pretty good generic youtube videos on the subject if you search or rear pad replacement.
 
#16
Haynes manuals are alright as far as they go, like for telling you torque wrench settings, general spec, etc. You can sometimes even tell if a car has had new piston rings by looking for blood stains in the relevant section of the manual, if a previous owner has done it without using a piston ring compressor.
They often don't tell you the location of components, as if there's an assumption that you already know where something is.

The only other thing I could add to the advice already given is to check the state of the caliper pistons before pushing or winding them in. I've seen them with so much rust that they jammed on the way back in, and buggered the seals as the rust went past them, (sometimes caused by pads being left for too long before replacement, caliper overheating, or lack of brake fluid changes leading to water being absorbed into the fluid).

There's a good tutorial on fordwiki.co.uk

Brake Pad Replacement - Rear (Mondeo Mk2)


 
#17
Haynes manuals ain't what they used to be.
 
#18
Wimps!

Try the inboard rear brakes on a good ol' Rover 2000.

That'll make yer swear...
 
#19
They confusing bit is why have you got a MK2 Mondeo anyway?
'Britain's undiscovered motoring secret' JEREMY CLARKSON.

A car so cheap and a well loaded spec too, tough engine and gearbox, good handling and fuel economy. Spares from a breakers yards are cheap and plentiful too. There's at least a dozen in my local breakers and I think I've had bits off all of them. If it wasn't for petrol prices and insurance it would almost be free motoring. Even, it's still cheaper than the train to work.

I've had it 5 years now and its only ever had a few detail faults I've rectified myself easily and normal wear and tear.

Having done this more than once on Mondeos (and replaced seized calipers for which they are renowned for), as well as Zafiras and Skodas, I would recommend you don't attempt without the wind-back tool for rear brakes. You'll turn the air blue without it. There are some pretty good generic youtube videos on the subject if you search or rear pad replacement.
caliper piston tool.jpg Like this fella?

Every time I log on to arrse an Amazon advert appears for this. £13.19p
 

Similar threads

Latest Threads

Top