Milling & Turning

ugly

LE
Moderator
#21
I may ask one of you chaps for help! While I have the skills, I do not have the equipment (fnar fnar!!). Did a Higher in metalwork, also lots of swarf producing on Mech's course in the RN. I have a lovely old brass RN gun sighting telescope (huge thing) and a lovely set of old theodolite tripod legs. I'd like to marry the two up using some brass and or copper. Anyone interested?
Have a look for an old brass theodolite if you want inspiration!
 
#22
I've watched some interesting blackening and blueing techniques on the web, some by arrsers too!
Pip down at Edgecumbe Arm's many years ago showed me how they got a really, really, deep blue. Lot's and lot's of polishing and then boil it to death when dipped in the blueing salts solution.
 

rampant

LE
Kit Reviewer
Book Reviewer
#23
I may ask one of you chaps for help! While I have the skills, I do not have the equipment (fnar fnar!!). Did a Higher in metalwork, also lots of swarf producing on Mech's course in the RN. I have a lovely old brass RN gun sighting telescope (huge thing) and a lovely set of old theodolite tripod legs. I'd like to marry the two up using some brass and or copper. Anyone interested?
Where are you based, I get my neighbour to do my bits and pieces to repair my machines on his old Colchester, when I can drag him away from his traction engine
 
#24
Threading and chambering barrels would be a nice skill to have , throw in basic milling skills and you are away and building rifles.
 
#25
I hope this helps someone.
I bought several 'Workshop Practice' books to bone up on things forgotten (or not learned) over nearly 50 years and there was a mill tool sharpening device that could be made. It would have been good practice to make, but seemed over complex.

I came up with this:
IMGA0709.JPG


The piece of square section tube on the right, clamped to the table, is machined to cant the tool forward by 5deg to grind the primary angle and to the left by 1deg for the dish angle. That applies to end mills; for slot drills that have no dish angle, the other end of the square section is machined at 5deg only. It takes a bit of fiddling and shimming to set it at the correct angles for milling, but is doable.
A bolt midway up the tube (back left, not very visible) seats the tool to be sharpened and the upper 2 horizontal bolts locate it in place whilst grinding.
The other sq section cants the tool forward at 25deg for the seconday angle for slot drills that are badly worn/stuffed.

The cup wheel was bought cheaply from China and the Morse Taper arbor it's fitted to was bought from RDG or Warco, whoever was cheaper, already.
Grinding is done at 3-400 rpm, taking very light cuts L-R, twisting the tool 90deg after each pass. You only have to remember to count 1 to 4 (yeah, I'm not joking!).
It doesn't take too long to sharpen a lightly damaged bit and even a badly damaged one, once ground back to good metal on a bench grinder (cooling often) can be saved. The smaller end mill below (approx 5mm) had to be shortened by about 8m after I buggered it. A careful crosscut with the edge of the bench grinder separates the cutting edges.

Badly damaged 5mm end mill
IMGA0716.JPG


Previously chipped 10mm end mill
IMGA0719.JPG


Previously worn 10mm slot drill
IMGA0721.JPG


The plastic sheet covering the table is to stop the abrasive dust getting into the works. I have fixed a vacuum nozzle to catch debris, especially when routing wood - something else a mil is brill for!
IMGA0475.JPG
 
#26
I have a Myford ML7 from the early 70’s and have made all sorts on it over the years, nothing terribly technical but usually car or shooting related.
 

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