Military Modelling

Kirkz

LE

Simmerit

On ROPS
On ROPs
Cheers for the link, I'm no modeler but I've been looking for a good glue for my dental bridge.
Its a dentist that realised the glue has qualities that could be used for many other applications so he did a deal with (I think it was from memory) a chemical engineer who came up with a compound that can be used for general applications. I believe he's a multi-millionaire from this little brain child
 

Simmerit

On ROPS
On ROPs
Anyone wants to do any casting, this stuff is the dogs b0ll0cks

 
Anyone wants to do any casting, this stuff is the dogs b0ll0cks

Have you seen or used any of that Oyumaru stuff?
 

armsan612w

Swinger
Decided to put my Bandai X Wing from a few pages back into a dio. A couple of weeks and a significant amount of plasticard, together with various bits from the parts box and i’m at this stage. Next is to drill lots of 0.75mm holes and install fibre optics, then paint and washes.
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Simmerit

On ROPS
On ROPs
Have you seen or used any of that Oyumaru stuff?
I’ve not but looks worth a shot. I may gave that a go as I’ve got some casting to do
 

daz

LE
10/10 for marketing initiative but I wonder how much any royalties may account for?

Funnily enough I was just thinking yesterday that if I was Wing CDR Niggles with artistic license for my kite I'd try call it Airfix or Tamiya and hence be immortalised in polystyrene.
And, much as it the subject/object appals me, if if means more people are attracted to the hobby, then why not. After all, how many modellers/wargamers came to their passion through the medium of WH40K and the like?
 
Good. Grief. This is a mission! Finished doing the Caunter scheme at last. Brush painted with Humbrol enamels using Mike Starmer's colour mixes. Needed at least two coats for each colour and had to wait a couple of hours for each to dry enough to start on the next. If I am EVER stupid enough to attempt this scheme again I will:
a) Use acrylics.
b) Buy an airbrush.
c) Pick an easier subject. (Those back decks are a sodding nightmare!)
d) Pray that someone convinces me not to!

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Fang_Farrier

LE
Kit Reviewer
Book Reviewer
Cheers for the link, I'm no modeler but I've been looking for a good glue for my dental bridge.
Google Fuji IX, better for cementing dental work than this.

The difficulty with this stuff is that it needs direct exposure to the light to set.

In dentistry we have a combination of cements. Can be light cured, catalyst cured or a mix of both.

The light we use is not UV but just a far blue. It was found that if the cement was UV set, it tended to be unstable and have a short shelf life.

The resins we use are a bisGMA.
( Bis-GMA - Wikipedia ) whereas most superglues are cyanoacrylics which tend to melt the plastic a little to create a bond.
 

Fang_Farrier

LE
Kit Reviewer
Book Reviewer
@Fang_Farrier Any thoughts/dos and don'ts on this?
We have a variety of bonds of this type, uo to 7th generation I think.

We usually use them to bond resin fillings to teeth, although also used to bond porcelain or metal to teeth.

Porcelain requires a silane bonding agent, and the metal should be etched or sandblasted for a rough finish.

Without getting too technical, it has ability to bond to different parts of tooth in different ways. To the enamel it flows into microtubules and had a physical mechanical bond, whereas to the dentine the bond is more to the collagen.

In terms of modelling you will get mechanical bonding to any undercuts but I do not know if there will be a chemical bond, that will depend upon the composition of the plastic parts.

As to does and don'ts, our working lights can be enough to set our resins, so we can dim them so that they don't set until we want it to.

Our stuff ranges in price from not cheap to eye wateringly expensive but a little would go a long way in modelling, if you use it straight from the bottle rather than piur some out to use.

I would worry about the light penetration and shadowing if it is a dark plastic you are sticking together, especially if in any sort of bulk, some of these only set where the light has reached at a specific intensity, the curing does not propagate or spread.
We often end up shining our light from multiple angles to try to avoid this, plus they can be dual cure (light or catalyst)
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
We have a variety of bonds of this type, uo to 7th generation I think.

We usually use them to bond resin fillings to teeth, although also used to bond porcelain or metal to teeth.

Porcelain requires a silane bonding agent, and the metal should be etched or sandblasted for a rough finish.

Without getting too technical, it has ability to bond to different parts of tooth in different ways. To the enamel it flows into microtubules and had a physical mechanical bond, whereas to the dentine the bond is more to the collagen.

In terms of modelling you will get mechanical bonding to any undercuts but I do not know if there will be a chemical bond, that will depend upon the composition of the plastic parts.

As to does and don'ts, our working lights can be enough to set our resins, so we can dim them so that they don't set until we want it to.

Our stuff ranges in price from not cheap to eye wateringly expensive but a little would go a long way in modelling, if you use it straight from the bottle rather than piur some out to use.

I would worry about the light penetration and shadowing if it is a dark plastic you are sticking together, especially if in any sort of bulk, some of these only set where the light has reached at a specific intensity, the curing does not propagate or spread.
We often end up shining our light from multiple angles to try to avoid this, plus they can be dual cure (light or catalyst)
Many thanks for that answer mate.
 

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