landrover series 3,help needed?????

Discussion in 'REME' started by u_didnt_c_me_i_wasnt_ther, Dec 11, 2006.

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  1. hi troops, sorry to butt into the reems forum but i guessed that this would be the best place to ask afew questions.
    i've just bought a 1980 2.25 petrol series 3 swb rover,ex military.
    now i know that i'l probably need a new mortgage to keep the bloody thing on the road.
    here are afew questions regarding the old beast-
    1. its fitted with free running hubs :? :? how do they work and do they need looking after?
    2. it has a fairey overdrive. should this be left in overdrive permanently or selected as and when?any maint required?
    3. can its military history be traced?
    4. any other pitfalls that i need to keep an eye on?
    5. can the the engine oil air filter be replaced with a more modern type?
    6. would modern wheels ala wolf stylee fit? :wink: :wink:

    any help,hints or suggestions would be of help
    cheers troops
  2. 1) Remove them and sell them to an idiot. Fit standard drive flanges.
    2) Only select overdrive in high range 3rd and 4th. Of course it needs maintenance it's a fcuking gearbox.
    3) Yes. Try Military Vehicle Trust.
    4) Far too many to list.
    5) Yes but don't bother - just clean the oil bath.
    6) Yes but what would be the point. It's got wheels already.

    It's a Land Rover, great vehicle, don't make a career out of it.

    FYI, saying " Hi troops" is the mark of an arrse hole either here or in the office.


    Ex STAB
  3. cheers ex stab,some good info there but abit harsh on the delivery me thinks.
    FYI, saying " Hi troops" is the mark of an arrse hole either here or in the office.. :roll: :roll:
    nothing wrong with that we all use it at work, plus some users on this site get abit tetchy if you step in there forum so i went for the polite approach.

    1.why remove them?will it decrease the value? are they easy to remove?
    2. i know its a gearbox twat WAAAAHHHHH, what type of maintenance? a more constructive answer would of been more use.
    3. cheers il have a look.
    4. fair doos
    5. would changing it help performance or are these old things not designed for the modern touch?
    6. my local scrapyard has a written off wolf in it(ex mod), my wheels are quite rusty and need 5 new tyres shortly and £200 seem like a cheap alternative.

    maybe i should of got a defender 8)

    BTW stabs i sh*t em
  5. I've had a few of these...there is plenty of advice out there if you know where to look. Personally I found the best magazine to be Land Rover Owner International....they cover everything from S1 all the way up to the new RR's...

    As far as your FWH's. Your SIII is selectable 4wd, whereas the later machines were permanant 4wd with a locking centre diff.

    The FWH's simply disconnect the wheels from the drive train when you are not using the 4wd on an SIII. All you do is unlock them and then you are not suffering the drag on the the drivtrain all the way up to the gearbox. Some people swear by em...others don't. They are supposed to reduce wear and teat to the mechanicals, and to reduce fuel consumption. Only downside is that you need to re-engage the wheels if you need 4wd.

    If you do decide to keep them, you should engage the FWH's every few hundred miles for about 10 miles or so. This enables everything to rotate, but most importantly to lubricate the bearings in the front swivels.

    You L/R needn't cost you a fortune to run...but she will take up much of your time. L/R is still at the bottom of the reliablity tables for a reason.

    For advice and parts I'd recommend John Craddock Ltd in Cannock...

    If they don't have it, it's not worth having. Advice is plentyful for a newbie too...just tell em, they'll love to help.

    Finally, welcome to the club and remember, If it's not leaking's empty!
  6. Sorry, should have mentioned the wheels. You need to be careful. If you have a SWB you may have 205 wheels. If you change to Wolf (or the X/D as far as L/R are concerned) then they are designed for 750 tyres. this will change the rolling circumferunce of the wheels and change both your ratios and your speedo readings. Just have a look at what you have already...
  7. cheers fatbadge,for the sarcasm,trust anengineer,you're not a knocker are you??
    cheers infil good post
  8. Out of the cooling fan original? If you are interested in making one of the biggest differences to your machine...both in fuel conumption and in warming her up in the cold then replace your fan unit with one of the aftermarked electric units. They are not expensive (about a ton shoud do it if you are not towing)....they only kick in at a set temperature, so you warm up much faster.
    I can't remember if the SIII has the viscous unit or not, but the everything with the 2.5 Diesel did. Huge difference.
  9. keep your engine serviced regularly, plugs, leads and dizzy cap will help with the miles per gallon. you do realise you're only looking at about 20!!! if you don't go off road that much think about fitting all terrain tyres, if it stays on the road, fit road tyres. not so much miles per gallon but road tyres are a lot quieter than muds.

    your oil filter bowl can be changed with a 2.5l oil filter housing which takes the screw on cannister type.

    if you have the oil bath type air filter, change the oil regularly or fit a k&n.
    one of the lads has fitted a single barrel weber carb in place of his zenith and reckons he gets close on 30 to the gallon.

    have a look at for advice, second hand spares and club meets.

    if you're near the m4/a34 junction, there is a twice yearly spares day called "the old sodbury sortout" at the newbury showground. a good place to get spares.

    read any landy mag, they're usually full of tips and hints and welcome to the landrover world, it's a great place to live.
  10. Hi, you DO realise that running a series rover is addictive and stupid dont you? Well I am also hooked and have a 109 of various vintage. Now if your motor is standard it does not have FWH, check easily look at middle of front wheels for a changeable nut or finger recess, if it has a dome the same as rear then it does not have FWH. O/Drive. if fitted only use in top and occasionally third. You can trace the history if you have the army number for example 39KC97, you need to go to a vintage vehicle forum to get the address as I cannot remember it. Keep an eye on gearbox and other oil levels as it is easy to leak away oil and damage occur. Do not change the filter as the paper ones are expensive and not as good, use a cheap 30 grade type chainsaw oil as that is really cheap but OK.
    As for wheels, have you a 88 or 109. If you have a 109 be careful also be careful on tyres use only 7.50x16 preferably radials but DO NOT use metric tpes as the wheels will not fit them.
    Also to remove tyres make sure the tyre place takes the tyre of on the inside of the wheel as they are an offset wheel and tyre damage MAY result in tyre damage. Only use FWD on soft standing ie grass, do not use on the road.
    Cheap parts suppliers are Paddocks in Derbyshire amongst others.
    Would you like the name of my physciatrist as once you have realised that with slow going you CAN go anywhere you become addicted.
    I have a 109 ex MOD / UN / Civvy with mil spec wiring LHD now with Galvanised Chassis soft top, top whack certified by French police at 96kmph. Including trailer max gross weight is 5.8 tonnes max... :D
  11. What the hell does FYI and BTW i havent a friggin clue??
    Oh think the penny just dropped ........................................
    think i got it FYI= for your information
    BTW=by the way??
    am i right??? god sudenly i feel American!!!!
  12. leave the free wheel hubs on,they give u a better mpg and top speed.

    use the overdrive like a 5th gear only and check on the website of the manufacturer for servicing details(gearbox=servicing requiered)

    the air filter can be changed but u will have to retune the engine afterwards

    you can fit any type of wheel/tyre you wish provided the the tyres don´t rub and the wheel dishing is correct( check specifications of wheels)

    petrols eat spark plugs and points, guzzle the juice and can be jump started very simply using a screwdriver