Land Rover horror stories

RBMK

Old-Salt
For info, here are the last 2 MOTs for my previous 51 reg Disco 2 TD5 (it had done 125,000 miles at the last MOT):

Feb 19 - Fail

Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):
Nearside Front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (5.2.3 (e))

Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Front Headlamp aim too low (4.1.2 (a))
Offside Front Headlamp aim too low (4.1.2 (a))
Nearside Front Position lamp not working (4.2.1 (a))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Nearside Rear Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrule (1.1.12 (f) (i))
Offside Rear Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrule (1.1.12 (f) (i))
Nearside Front Brake hose has slight corrosion to ferrule x2 (1.1.12 (f) (i))
Offside Front Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
Offside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge Both edges (5.2.3 (e))

Feb 20 - Fail
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Side repeater not working (4.4.1 (a) (ii))
Nearside Front Road wheel fixing loose (5.2.1 (a) (i))
Offside Front Vehicle structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced (6.1.1 (c) (i))

Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
Nearside Front Lower Suspension component ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated (5.3.4 (b) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced chassis in general (6.1.1 (c) (i))
Rear Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
Nearside Front Shock absorbers has a slightly worn bush (5.3.2 (c))
Offside Front Shock absorbers has a slightly worn bush (5.3.2 (c))
Nearside Drag link end ball joint has slight play (2.1.3 (b) (i))
Offside Drag link end ball joint has slight play (2.1.3 (b) (i))
Offside Front Service brake binding but not excessively (1.2.1 (f))

And when it did pass:
Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):
Nearside Front Lower Suspension component ball joint dust cover severely deteriorated (5.3.4 (b) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Vehicle structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced chassis in general (6.1.1 (c) (i))
Rear Brake disc worn, pitted or scored, but not seriously weakened (1.1.14 (a) (ii))
Nearside Front Shock absorbers has a slightly worn bush (5.3.2 (c))
Offside Front Shock absorbers has a slightly worn bush (5.3.2 (c))
Nearside Drag link end ball joint has slight play (2.1.3 (b) (i))
Offside Drag link end ball joint has slight play (2.1.3 (b) (i))
Offside Front Service brake binding but not excessively (1.2.1 (f))
 
A long service history with a good independent specialist might give me more confidence than one from LR.

Either works as long as its complete and documented.
You know you've got what should be a winner when it has documented timing belt change at 40,000 miles because the right amount of years have passed.

I checked its history pretty thoroughly before I bought.
 
Not really, braided steel is usually a rigid steel (or stainless steel) pipe with a nylon or polymer braid over it to prevent wear on or from an adjacent component, steel braided is usually a flexible hose covered with a (stainless) steel braid to allow flexibility but restrict expansion whilst providing some mechanical protection. There are situations where the difference is important, replacing a high pressure (~6 Bar) fuel pipe is in my view, one of them.

I changed my headlight bulbs the other day, if this weather keeps up there should be some nice flowers in a few weeks, I'll need to put some lamps back in for the winter though ;)
Tnuc.

But correct.
Smartarse!
 
Last edited:

theinventor

Old-Salt
For info, here are the last 2 MOTs...
Feb 19 - Fail
Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):
Nearside Front Tyre tread depth below requirements of 1.6mm (5.2.3 (e))

Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Front Headlamp aim too low (4.1.2 (a))
Offside Front Headlamp aim too low (4.1.2 (a))
Nearside Front Position lamp not working (4.2.1 (a)

Feb 20 - Fail
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Side repeater not working (4.4.1 (a) (ii))
Nearside Front Road wheel fixing loose
You have to worry when a car is presented for mot without the most basic first parade being carried out beforehand, what else has been ignored by the owner?
 

neil82

Old-Salt
You have to worry when a car is presented for mot without the most basic first parade being carried out beforehand, what else has been ignored by the owner?
agreed, present your car to me for test with torn wiper blades or no water in the screen wash and it got the book thrown at it with no mercy, if it was in the inspection manual as a fail that`s what it got.
 
agreed, present your car to me for test with torn wiper blades or no water in the screen wash and it got the book thrown at it with no mercy, if it was in the inspection manual as a fail that`s what it got.
A bit like showing up for a parade with dirty boots - the stripy isn't going to give you an easy ride if you can't get the basics right.
 

Ravers

LE
Kit Reviewer
Book Reviewer
Nothing to do with the Landy but couldn’t find a general car trouble thread.

Strong smell of fuel while driving the red car today. Had a peak in the engine bay and noticed fuel pissing out of one of the lines, directly above the exhaust.

Not good, especially on a hot day like this.

Tried nipping it up, but it just made it worse.

Turns out the connector was split.

Closer inspection reveals both ends of the two fuel lines on both sides are completely fooked. Same cracking on all four connectors.

Large amounts of PTFE tape and a borrowed fire extinguisher, got me home.

These are OEM hoses as well. Over 300 quid plus VAT, each.

I’m loathe to put non OEM parts on this car as every nut and bolt is original Maranello, but in this case I think a trip to Pirtek may be In order.

View attachment 484931
Pirtek have had these hoses a week and can’t make anything that fits.

The bloke says he’s been making hoses for over 20 years and never seen anything like these.

They’re very weird apparently. Metric threads but with a BSB cone inside.

He’s checked everywhere and the connectors for these are completely bespoke, non standard parts. You can’t get them anywhere. They don’t exist.

So options:

1) Go to a fabricator and get something made entirely from scratch. I mean actually milled out of a block of metal.

2) Buy the exact like for like part. Over 400 quid plus VAT per side. A grand for 2 ******* hoses.

3) Buy secondhand ones that look identical but have a different part number. A few risks here, either they don’t fit or the same problem happens again. Any secondhand parts are likely to be around 30 years old. Still about 200 quid a side. The waters are a bit muddy with the part numbers. The 348 (a much more common car) has the identical engine to mine. The hoses would probably fit but they have a different part number. Plenty of secondhand 348 ones for sale. None for my car.

4) Try and get these repaired. I’m wondering if laser welding might work?
 
They'll sell because they are a fashion statement.
Technically they are great, in every way they are an improvement on the old Defender.

But they are a expensive fashion statement.

I paid a lot of money for my Discovery 3, an Oxford owned one that had never been off road or ever had a tow bar fitted. Full Land Rover history and very low mileage.
Could have had a reasonable Discovery 4 for the same price.
But seeing as fashion and plate age means little to me I bought the best condition 3 I could find.
I would take the 4.4 2005-2008 over any LR4. Love mine, keeps me busy though.
 

cymraeg

War Hero
Pirtek have had these hoses a week and can’t make anything that fits.

The bloke says he’s been making hoses for over 20 years and never seen anything like these.

They’re very weird apparently. Metric threads but with a BSB cone inside.

He’s checked everywhere and the connectors for these are completely bespoke, non standard parts. You can’t get them anywhere. They don’t exist.

So options:

1) Go to a fabricator and get something made entirely from scratch. I mean actually milled out of a block of metal.

2) Buy the exact like for like part. Over 400 quid plus VAT per side. A grand for 2 ******* hoses.

3) Buy secondhand ones that look identical but have a different part number. A few risks here, either they don’t fit or the same problem happens again. Any secondhand parts are likely to be around 30 years old. Still about 200 quid a side. The waters are a bit muddy with the part numbers. The 348 (a much more common car) has the identical engine to mine. The hoses would probably fit but they have a different part number. Plenty of secondhand 348 ones for sale. None for my car.

4) Try and get these repaired. I’m wondering if laser welding might work?
Because its fuel mukka and petrol at that it would be the new hoses.. no telling that a fabricated part would be cheaper or fit exactly as the wanky stupid italian non standard part would etc
 
Pirtek have had these hoses a week and can’t make anything that fits.

The bloke says he’s been making hoses for over 20 years and never seen anything like these.

They’re very weird apparently. Metric threads but with a BSB cone inside.

He’s checked everywhere and the connectors for these are completely bespoke, non standard parts. You can’t get them anywhere. They don’t exist.

So options:

1) Go to a fabricator and get something made entirely from scratch. I mean actually milled out of a block of metal.

2) Buy the exact like for like part. Over 400 quid plus VAT per side. A grand for 2 ******* hoses.

3) Buy secondhand ones that look identical but have a different part number. A few risks here, either they don’t fit or the same problem happens again. Any secondhand parts are likely to be around 30 years old. Still about 200 quid a side. The waters are a bit muddy with the part numbers. The 348 (a much more common car) has the identical engine to mine. The hoses would probably fit but they have a different part number. Plenty of secondhand 348 ones for sale. None for my car.

4) Try and get these repaired. I’m wondering if laser welding might work?
Before you cough up a grand why not join a Ferrari enthusiast forum ? also dont stop at Pirtek ,other hose manufactures exits , even from the US could be cheaper, these lot offer Mondial fuel lines.
 

TamH70

MIA
Pirtek have had these hoses a week and can’t make anything that fits.

The bloke says he’s been making hoses for over 20 years and never seen anything like these.

They’re very weird apparently. Metric threads but with a BSB cone inside.

He’s checked everywhere and the connectors for these are completely bespoke, non standard parts. You can’t get them anywhere. They don’t exist.

So options:

1) Go to a fabricator and get something made entirely from scratch. I mean actually milled out of a block of metal.

2) Buy the exact like for like part. Over 400 quid plus VAT per side. A grand for 2 ******* hoses.

3) Buy secondhand ones that look identical but have a different part number. A few risks here, either they don’t fit or the same problem happens again. Any secondhand parts are likely to be around 30 years old. Still about 200 quid a side. The waters are a bit muddy with the part numbers. The 348 (a much more common car) has the identical engine to mine. The hoses would probably fit but they have a different part number. Plenty of secondhand 348 ones for sale. None for my car.

4) Try and get these repaired. I’m wondering if laser welding might work?
Isn't there a more modern fuel-feed system that you could just whack on the engine and fix the problem for the life of the car rather than tinker around with hoses? I mean, if you don't care about concourse and all that silly stuff, what's the point of trying to be factory-fresh and potentially run into the same problem some years down the line when their OEM stuff breaks again?
 
Pirtek have had these hoses a week and can’t make anything that fits.

The bloke says he’s been making hoses for over 20 years and never seen anything like these.

They’re very weird apparently. Metric threads but with a BSB cone inside.

He’s checked everywhere and the connectors for these are completely bespoke, non standard parts. You can’t get them anywhere. They don’t exist.

So options:

1) Go to a fabricator and get something made entirely from scratch. I mean actually milled out of a block of metal.

2) Buy the exact like for like part. Over 400 quid plus VAT per side. A grand for 2 ******* hoses.

3) Buy secondhand ones that look identical but have a different part number. A few risks here, either they don’t fit or the same problem happens again. Any secondhand parts are likely to be around 30 years old. Still about 200 quid a side. The waters are a bit muddy with the part numbers. The 348 (a much more common car) has the identical engine to mine. The hoses would probably fit but they have a different part number. Plenty of secondhand 348 ones for sale. None for my car.

4) Try and get these repaired. I’m wondering if laser welding might work?
Given the bloody thing tried to self combust I'd be looking at putting a modern hose on there ....

E10 petrol is round the corner and that will probably eat 30 year old rubber parts anyway over time.

If it was mine I would be looking at replacing all the flexible lines in the fuel system and be enquiring about the O rings etc in the system to see if they are compatible with Bio Ethanol at B10 or above .... that or risk doing an impression of Halleys comet at some point ...maybe with a kid in the car with you .
 
I agree that it might be good to try other Ferrari owners , forums etc . This must have happened before and have a solution . And i would agree also that ripping the lot out and doing them all is a good idea . I don't know how much your car costs , but im betting a potential new owner would rather see that a expensive problem has been fixed and is not going to be put off by the non standard hoses .

Either that or try bespoke motorsport fuel manufacturers rather than a hydraulic place .

Earls
Goodridge
Aeroquip
Mocal



You never know , if you get a set made you might get others wanting them on forums and make a few quid.

What exact model is Ravers? I will try to do some more digging .
 
They’re very weird apparently. Metric threads but with a BSB cone inside.
Stop being cagey. Supply information

Which end of the hose is problematic?

Is fitting it attaches to part of component or a replaceable piece?

Annotated close up photos would help
 
this-

Either that or try bespoke motorsport fuel manufacturers rather than a hydraulic place .

Earls
Goodridge
Aeroquip
Mocal
if successful

remove OE hoses lob in plaggy bag, should the next mug to buy gets as spare or pattern to restore the cat to OE
 

OneTenner

LE
Book Reviewer
Pirtek have had these hoses a week and can’t make anything that fits.

The bloke says he’s been making hoses for over 20 years and never seen anything like these.

They’re very weird apparently. Metric threads but with a BSB cone inside.

He’s checked everywhere and the connectors for these are completely bespoke, non standard parts. You can’t get them anywhere. They don’t exist.

So options:

1) Go to a fabricator and get something made entirely from scratch. I mean actually milled out of a block of metal.

2) Buy the exact like for like part. Over 400 quid plus VAT per side. A grand for 2 ******* hoses.

3) Buy secondhand ones that look identical but have a different part number. A few risks here, either they don’t fit or the same problem happens again. Any secondhand parts are likely to be around 30 years old. Still about 200 quid a side. The waters are a bit muddy with the part numbers. The 348 (a much more common car) has the identical engine to mine. The hoses would probably fit but they have a different part number. Plenty of secondhand 348 ones for sale. None for my car.

4) Try and get these repaired. I’m wondering if laser welding might work?
There's something badly wrong here - Pirtek mainly make hydraulic hoses which have their own peculiarities...
These are rigid fuel lines, the injectors will be made by probably Bosch or Marelli, which means a metric thread with an ISO / JIS taper flare, probably 60 degrees. This can be checked by measuring the flare angle on the injector or the nut, it's a simple thing to do. There are some oddities with a 90 degree flare angle but again, easy to measure and reproduce. A BSP flare is possible and is still used - so not 'unusual' the main difference is that BSP is 60 degrees with an 'undercut' that the JIS / ISO does not have. If the the flare is 60 degrees, then it's possible its actually JIS B8363 which can look and measure like the BSP BS5200 but doesn't have the undercut.
 

2000AD

Old-Salt
The 4.4 V8 Rangie has been sat for a few weeks on ramps and fully raised on its suspension so I can access the gearbox while I work on it. As the gearbox currently has no fluid, I cannot start it periodically to charge the battery and refill the airbags as they slowly discharge, so the battery is on a trickle charger just to keep all the other systems alive. I did notice that the front of the car had gradually lowered to about half the usual fully extended height.

Cue a nice night, hottest night of the year. Everyone in the area probably sleeping with windows open.

I am woken at 0230hrs by a very loud BIP, BIP, BIP, BIP, BIP, chiming ceaslessly in the quiet of the night.

I look out of the back bedroom window to see the hazard lights on the Rangie lighting up the world and the alarm now waking neighbours and lights illuminating housewindows all over the estate.

I rummage about for the key and blip the alarm off then on again, hoping my neighbours haven't been too disturbed.

The following morning I venture to investigate.

Unexpectedly, the front suspension is back to full height, so I can only assume that the self levelling system had, in a moment of Range Rover Humour, chosen the dead of a very quiet night to do its stuff but without letting the alarm know about it, which in turn detected the body movement and went full retard and let the world know about it.

******* Thing. Too clever for its own good, and too stupid by half in equal measure.
 

RBMK

Old-Salt
My oppo had an Alfa 164 V6 from new in the late 80s. It sounded brilliant and went like hot shit off a shiny shovel. We used to call it the "seven hundred quid car" because every time it went near the dealers its cost £700.

Tyres? Your tyres are worn unevenly sir, you need to replace all four and have four wheel tracking done plus caster and camber. That's a non-warranty item sir.
Fuel pump is rattling, you'll need new one plus a re-calibration -- £700 ker-ching.
Major service sir? £700 'cos you need new spark plugs x6
Cam belt sir? That's be £700 because you also need to replace....

We nicknamed Mangoletsi "Mangleitupsi" because they could not fix anything first time, parts always had to come from Italy "special delivery" because there were never any in the UK.
 

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