Land rover dead. Need advice

Discussion in 'Cars, Bikes 'n AFVs' started by sarnian, Jul 9, 2010.

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  1. I'm just about to pull off from some traffic lights and there is a loud bang- then no drive. I tried locking the diff to eliminate a problem there- still no joy so it's either the transfer or the main. There had been a bit of slack in the drive for a while, and leaks were no more than expected- there was oil in the box. It's an r380 on a 300tdi.
    My question is this- should I try to remedy the problem with this box (and if so where do I start?) or should I just get a new reconditioned one from simmonites and fix the shagged one in time- bearing in mind this is my only car?


  2. Are you sure it's not a half shaft falure,
  3. Its just as likely to be the cluth plate flying to bits.
    Its not uncommon for the clutch centre to part company with the friction plate and givethe symptoms you describe.
    Whip the box out before you buy anything.
    If its an early R380 (1994-95ish) with an un-modified output gear then that is your next most likely culprit, if its that then the cheapest option is a new/used main box. There is a circular plate with 6 bolts on the back of the transfer box which will access this gear and its a half hour job to whip it off and check, it is the splined shaftthat wears away and it will be obvious when you give the gear a wiggle if its fooked
  4. It would drive in diff lock with halfshaft failure.
  5. Not thinking, my old Airportable didn't have a diff lock
  6. look at the UJs before anything else FFS, £25 repair versus national debt of Argentina..

    will it move on steering full lock?
  7. Would a uj failure prevent drive from the rear wheels with the diff locked? Clutch was changed c6k miles ago- there's a chance I frucked up the refit, I guess. When towing it home, there was a nasty lathe-y type noise, with box in neutral. Any ideas?
  8. I'd check that the diff lock actually worked before ripping out the gearbox.
  9. crawl underneath and have a look. any shiny flashes around the uj bolts and there's your issue.

    my 90 gave a clunk and a whirr after pulling away from lights. could stick it in gear, move transfer lever etc with no power to wheels. RAC suggested clutch and I agreed.
    flat bed to garage - mech jumps in and turns it to full lock rams it into gear and off it trundles.

    **** knows why
  10. PM me, if you're in my part of the world I'll have a look at it for you.
  11. Get a proper car.
  12. WHich box in neutral? Main box or transfer box?
  13. Cloudbuster.... a good suggestion, if not an entirely helpful one. I would if I could afford to - hell I might even buy jap as a main car and a classic LR for shits and giggles.
    Jagman - main in neutral - although I can't be sure the transfer wasn't in neutral after trying to lock the diff before i got it towed. Seem to remember it stopped when the clutch was pulled.

    Ex-STAB - PM sent.

    I've had the inspection hatch off the bottom of the transfer box, and drained it. No lathe spinnings in the oil, and a cursory check of the gears doesn't show any missing teeth/ chunks of mainshaft.

    Cheers guys

  14. HTH, sarnian. I remember the shits and giggles of LR ownership, too, and the tendancy for it to consume beer-tokens. For S&G, get a Vitara.
  15. TheIronDuke

    TheIronDuke LE Book Reviewer

    Die choking blood, Spawn of Santa.

    A proper reconed GB and transfer box is going to set you back, what? £1,000?

    Check the drive train, paying special attention to the back axel, and if that is all in order, buy a GB and transfer box off of eBay for £200.

    As it happens, I have a fully reconned GB (no transfer box) and reconned handbrake drum which you can have for next to nowt. I need the space. PM me for part numbers and pics?