hippo pad recommendations

Discussion in 'Weapons, Equipment & Rations' started by danny842003, Jun 20, 2010.

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  1. Has anyone had any experience with non issue hippo pads as i'am a total remf but am now in a place where i am expected to do a fair amount of grav ex's. Last week i got some brilliant webbing rash using the issue hippo pad so i think it might be worth me buying a better one.
  2. There's no reason why it should give you a rash, ask an infantry type to help set it up for you?

    You may also want to give it a wash first in case you got the rash from a previous owner.
  3. I have 2 from a brand called Raven. Apparently the bloke is ex guards.

    I never had any issues with it on my webbing in TA, and I still use it to cushion my toolbelt for work. Good kit.
  4. The issue one is supposed to be very good. NSN- 8485-99-869-0392 I just don't know who gets issued them except the Royal Marines Reserve at Hamworthy.

    I asked for one from my SQMS but he simply laughed, SQMS's are like that they laugh a lot but don't issue much kit.

    Try the issue one if you can get it, who know's you might get lucky.

  5. take all your webbing to your local hm supplies and pay 40-60 and will sow it to a good hippo pad and it makes it the same as air borne webbing but without the extra pouches hope this helps
  6. this is a really great idea because when you break a pouch, you just take it off and uh... oh sh1t its stuck.

    whats wrong with wrapping a bungee round it like everyone else?

    you only want it because it says 'airborne' on it. if you want to make something 'airborne' just throw it!
  7. Cardinal - sounds like your SQ is being lazy - my CQ (RMP) got a company's worth with no dramas - so there shouldn't be a drama with the demand for non inf-units. Unless they are limited to those warned off for tour.
  8. I do think it might be worth mentioning, as a total remf, are you sure you set up your webbing PROPERLY?

    A hippo pad won't save you if it's set up badly.

    Make sure all your pouches are pushed close together, and wrap a bungee round the outside of the back 3 (or 4, depending how big you are) pouches, using the cam loops on the outer side of the pouches. Then take a utility strap (they have no other use) and run it through the inside of the webbing using the loops at the bottom of the pouch rear. The combination of the 2 should keep the pouches from moving, which in turn will massively reduce any webbing rash. If it is set up properly, you should be able to wear it WITHOUT the yoke in a comfortable position, and jump up and down without feeling any movement. Then, take the yoke and get a mate to fit it onto you whilst you are wearing the pouches around your waist, so that the yoke is taking some weight of the pouches, but is not affecting their position (ie lifting them). This means your waist is taking the weight, and shoulders are just helping, especially when crawling pushes the pouches downwards.

    Set the webbing up to comfortable as above WITHOUT the hippo pad. This way, you know the webbing is doing its job properly, and when you add the hippo pad, it is simply helping and adding comfort. It will let you do the belt up tighter too, which is always a good thing.
  9. I don't get on here very often but when I do you always seem to be coming across as some kind of authority on kit. Aren't you some cadet / TA bod? In four years in a regular infantry reconnaissance platoon, including a spell as close observation platoon, I always rated the tailored webbing where the pouches are sewn directly onto the hippo pad as by far the best option. A pouch gets broke, you take it back down the tailors.
  10. Agree with twice the man,
    Most of the companys designing custom webbing are now producing them in such a way that if a pouch is damaged, they can be cut off to reveal a section of belt that will take an issued pouch, they can then be returned to the manufacturer and repaired as required, JayJays certainly do this now, i have owned a set of their webbing for a number of years and swear by it (not saying issued is crap, just requires patience to put it together well).

    As for using bungees to tighten webbing up, they stretch, surprising as they're made of elastic and still allow pouches to bounce around, if you then pull them tighter you can't get F@ck all in your pouches. Utility straps all the way round your pouches is a better option.
  11. Did you actually pay that much for a tailor to do that!?!? Saw you coming a mile off.

    The issue one works better than most other-brand. Try washing it (as above) and wash yourself you grotty fucker.
  12. Give me 40 - 60 quid I will feed you a couple of pies to make the webbing more comfy.

    I've got some magic beans for sale if you're interested.
  13. Get it sewn on a hippo in HM or Jay Jays webbing its the dogs and take this advice from an Inf Sjt not some TA/cadet bod,with ref to pouches ripping off ive had my beltkit with vest sewn on for 4 years now it has done Jwac and senior brecon and GPMG SF Pl comds course and never ripped sop you are talking out of your Arrse.
  14. I'm only speaking from common sense! I may have not been a regular soldier, but I have done a fair bit of work in a place where you learn a fair bit about what goes right and wrong on current issue equipment.

    I suppose it is down to being TA, we never got taken to them cushty training areas that have webbing tailors positioned exactly where you are.

    The little plastic loop on the bottom half of the ammo pouch is prone to breaking, that fault was identified years ago and we are still one of the only countries in the world employing that 'spanish fly' method of fastening. If you lose that on a nicely tailored set, you've either got to butcher the set to get the pouch off, or work out some serious bodge repair.

    The fact that a bungee round your pouches stretches is the whole reason it works. Whether it's lying flat on the ground off your back, or curved around your back (where the bungee has to stretch), it remains tight, unlike a fixed length strap. Getting kit in and out shouldn't be a problem either, the only thing I ever took out my back pouches when the webbing wasn't already lying on the ground was my waterbottle, and the fact that it's 'funnelled' at the top and bottom means pushing it onto the pouch seperated the bungee enough to let it slide in and stay put. In fact, having the bungee push stuff in the pouches also reduced liability for stuff rattling in pouches.
    It does help if you first leave the bungee wrapped around a something in it's fully stretched state, it takes some of the elasticity out and leaves you something which is stretchy but not in a rush to half it's length to the point where it tries to pull your belt kit inside out.

    And as has been said, if you paid 40-60 they saw you coming for 50 miles. I could have done that in my workshop in about 5 minutes with about 30p worth of heavy thread. Should really get myself another heavy duty sewing machine, could make an absolute killing off this forum by the look of it.
  15. I had a cracking Belt support from SASS in Lancaster mumble mumble years ago. I've emailed them to see if they are still doing them because it really was the mutts nuts. This post has reminded me that I need to get one as it really makes a difference to the Issue webbing. I also found this...