Hints, tips and questions in here

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
#1
As it says any tips etc for better builds etc etc.
To start the ball rolling, I always use car primer not expensive rip off model primer
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
#2
I've shamelessly stolen this too
'hand Knitted' Nameplates. | planetFigure | Miniatures

NAMEPLATES

Following a few requests asking about how I did the nameplates I've used on some figures I thought it best to do a quick SBS........so here you go

The first step before you do anything is to decide do you really want this type of nameplate for the model that you've invested so much time and passion into creating?
Make no mistake that this in no way is ever going to be of the quality of professionally made plates from companies like the excellent Nameit. They do however have a certain charm and allow for a bit of experimentation.
I feel that they tend to work best for the period between 10th and 16th Century as well as Pirate and some Fantasy figures. Basically any period where vellum or parchment was used.
All the material used is easily available and between your workbox and refrigerator you probably have them all to hand. I’m assuming you have a printer and a Word type progamme on your computer.
What you need:
1. A4 Printer paper. I use a cream parchment paper I picked up years ago from a company called Paper Direct but I know you can get small packs of similar paper from most stationery outlets.
2. Double sided tape.
3. Thick Card (Mounting Board)
4. Metal foil food container. Use as heavy a gauge as you can find. Marks & Spencer containers are the best I’ve come across.
5. Yellow Ochre and Raw Umber oil paint
6. Varnish. Humbrol Gloss Cote works really well
7. A well worn brush and an old brush that’s still kept a bit of a point.
8. Good quality bottle of beer

How you do it:
Cook and eat the contents of the food container. Wash container in hot soapy water and dry.
Write out your name plate in the font of your choice. Make sure you don’t get too carried away with over fancy fonts, keep it simple and legible. Try and have a list of plates and print several on the same sheet. Place each title below the previous one leaving plenty of space between them. Select all text and choose the ‘align centre text’ option. Print in black.
Leave for about 10 minutes for the ink to fully set.
Lightly dab your worn brush into the Yellow Ochre and wipe most of it off (most people use paper but I prefer to use my trousers) use a light touch you can always go back over it.
Scrub the paint around the text and pay particular attention to where you think the corners and edges of your finished plate will be.
Cut out plate larger than your intended final size.
Cut the base from the container, rub flat, and paint or spray prime one side only. Let dry and cut a piece slightly larger than the cut paper.
Cover the unpainted area of the foil that will form the backing of the plate with double sided tape. Peel tape and stick the printed and painted paper plate to the foil and trim to final size.

Make a few small cuts around plate and gently curl the cut edges and corners of the plate. Make sure you avoid symmetry.
Lightly dab the worn brush with Raw umber and scrub lightly into ‘shadow’ areas.
Use the pointed brush to make little ‘flicks’ of Raw Umber paint along the edges of the plate.

Flood varnish across the face of the plate, no need to wait for the paint to dry. The varnish will soak in and give a nice sheen finish.
Cut a small piece of mounting card, and stick to back of plate and then to base.
Some examples......

Drink the Beer
Sorry guys a lot of words for what is a very easy process, hope the pictures help.
Cheers
Derek​
 
#3
From the ladies section, nail polishing blocks ... or foam sanding block to me and you, must are multi graded and can be a right godsend, not to mention a lot cheaper than the modelling equivalent
 

Attachments

#4
Although I haven't built anything for a while I used to love crafting Dioramas, with a diorama you can add those missing touches that a stand alone model usually doesn't have. The detritus of war so to speak, the ration boxes, empty cans, a broken pick-axe, the cooking fire pit, the map thrown onto the dashboard, a rusted discarded wheel, basically anything to add that touch of realism.

Anyway, I just thought I would share a few ideas that I had back in the day.

A normal brown nylon stretch hairnet makes a perfect cam net either rolled up on the ground, draped over a tent, or just sitting in a vehicle bin they really do look like the genuine article. Stretch the net over a suitable box and using your chosen colours one by one brush or dab the paint into the desired scheme. Thicker paint will fill in the net holes while thinner paint will just colour the strands. Cut to size they fold / roll normally and droop like a proper net. I also used baked tea leaves sprinkled over the wet paint for the loose leaf effect but on the smaller scales I found that wasn't really necessary.

(This is just a photo shopped hairnet that I mocked up to show the effect)
1551728907346.png

After building a German Halftrack I wanted to put it into a Diorama Snow scene and although I built up snow into the road wheels and tracks and other areas by using Pollyfilla mixed with white paint the white paint wash over the body didn't really work. So, I sprinkled Talcum Powder over the entire vehicle brushed it into the crevices and then blew the excess off. What a difference, it looked so ffffffffing cold even the boxhead crew didn't want to touch the metal, their hideously painted faces hidden from view inside the frozen tent was a bonus.
1551731481786.png

The Sdkfz was placed in a defilade position with two MG 42 outposts, the belt and rounds were painted but something was missing?, Stretched sprue painted bronze, chopped up into tiny pieces then liberally sprinkled into the snow on the ejection side added that missing touch.
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
#5
Although I haven't built anything for a while I used to love crafting Dioramas, with a diorama you can add those missing touches that a stand alone model usually doesn't have. The detritus of war so to speak, the ration boxes, empty cans, a broken pick-axe, the cooking fire pit, the map thrown onto the dashboard, a rusted discarded wheel, basically anything to add that touch of realism.

Anyway, I just thought I would share a few ideas that I had back in the day.

A normal brown nylon stretch hairnet makes a perfect cam net either rolled up on the ground, draped over a tent, or just sitting in a vehicle bin they really do look like the genuine article. Stretch the net over a suitable box and using your chosen colours one by one brush or dab the paint into the desired scheme. Thicker paint will fill in the net holes while thinner paint will just colour the strands. Cut to size they fold / roll normally and droop like a proper net. I also used baked tea leaves sprinkled over the wet paint for the loose leaf effect but on the smaller scales I found that wasn't really necessary.

(This is just a photo shopped hairnet that I mocked up to show the effect)
View attachment 380769
After building a German Halftrack I wanted to put it into a Diorama Snow scene and although I built up snow into the road wheels and tracks and other areas by using Pollyfilla mixed with white paint the white paint wash over the body didn't really work. So, I sprinkled Talcum Powder over the entire vehicle brushed it into the crevices and then blew the excess off. What a difference, it looked so ffffffffing cold even the boxhead crew didn't want to touch the metal, their hideously painted faces hidden from view inside the frozen tent was a bonus.
View attachment 380779
The Sdkfz was placed in a defilade position with two MG 42 outposts, the belt and rounds were painted but something was missing?, Stretched sprue painted bronze, chopped up into tiny pieces then liberally sprinkled into the snow on the ejection side added that missing touch.
Further to the snow ideas, Andrews salts make nice crisp sparkling snow and frost, and any clear sprue/stirrers etc, heated and stretched can make icicles, as seen here. yes, I did correct the off centre one!
SAM_0513.JPG
SAM_0514.JPG
 
#7
Spotted this tip on Britmodeller from member TC2324 who is busy building a 1:24 Harrier. Britmodeller Link
TC is going to use Teddy Bear fur as the base for a semi destroyed Harrier Diorama.
1552136250763.png

after spraying
1552136286034.png
 
#9
1552485462321.png


Look in the hand made jewelry department of craft stores for items like the one above. They also do links and stretchy line. You can also get 0.3mm brown, black and grey pens to highlight bits. Craft stores/departments have lots of item that can be repurposed for our use.

@Helm :p
 

Similar threads


Latest Threads

Top