Just came back from there two weeks ago. Very, very moving. Started off at Etaps cemetry. Moving, but I didn't get the enormity of the loss until we started traveling towards the Somme, then it hits you with the cemetries every mile or so. The you see Thiepvil, and then it really hits you.
I have to say though that the Candians seem to take their remembereance a lot more seriously. Vimy Ridge, Beumont Hamel etc were well worth the detour.