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Builds Group Build - The War in the Desert 1941 - 1943

Smeggers

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That's how they do it with the shoulder patches, too, isn't it, even today - the right arm patch appears backwards (or, as the flag would be seen if observing the pole from the north in a westerly wind)...?

Seems it's something to do with the stars having to always be forward as the US never retreats, or something:-

Didn't stop the buggers at the Kasserine Pass 19 - 24 February 1943. Mr Yank had it away on his toes, leaving shedloads of munitions and equipment for the Germans and Italians.
 

ches

LE
Replying to my own post: I'm not sure I can build this! I haven't done any 1/35th scale for about 40yrs, and the intervening yrs have not been kind to my eyes and dexterity.

I looked at the destructions and the sprue's. The tip of my scalpel is bigger than some of the bit's I need to fit together. Also kit's have become very detailed as well. No longer can I just slap them together and slap some paint on.

Proper thinking needed me thinks. To sell or to attempt to build. If I try to build and give up I wont get my money back if I sell on. Or cut my losses sell all together with the extra bits I've bought without opening any of the sprue bags.

Thoughts gentlemen please.

Got myself into a similar boat trying to over detail a Tamiya King Tiger.
If you don't feel confident in tackling this then yeah get something cheaper, older & easier as a first stab getting back into it. But also look at the gun, can you knock together some sub-assemblies, ease yourself in, take your time, build confidence on larger elements. Once you've got all the larger pieces of a sub assembly together, put it to one side. Come back to it the next day, see where the fiddly stuff goes, approach each small part as modelling session in itself. Are you confident using tweezers? Some of them seem to be adept at launching tiny parts into the ether as soon as you grip a piece of plastic or PE. Practice on scrap.
I'd def invest in a magnifying head lamp of some sort, maybe a mag desk lamp as well. I use both & couldn't do much without either.
 

Themanwho

LE
Book Reviewer
Got myself into a similar boat trying to over detail a Tamiya King Tiger.
If you don't feel confident in tackling this then yeah get something cheaper, older & easier as a first stab getting back into it. But also look at the gun, can you knock together some sub-assemblies, ease yourself in, take your time, build confidence on larger elements. Once you've got all the larger pieces of a sub assembly together, put it to one side. Come back to it the next day, see where the fiddly stuff goes, approach each small part as modelling session in itself. Are you confident using tweezers? Some of them seem to be adept at launching tiny parts into the ether as soon as you grip a piece of plastic or PE. Practice on scrap.
I'd def invest in a magnifying head lamp of some sort, maybe a mag desk lamp as well. I use both & couldn't do much without either.
Absolutely spot on. This is pretty much what I've been doing recently after a four year break from modelling - I'm working on simpler kits in a piecemeal fashion one area at a time, working at a glacial pace and anything I want to do extra (ie: scratch build), I treat it as a specific mini project. And taking a deep breath then walking away for a break is something I do at least a couple of times each session. It's all very zen. The one thing I haven't done yet is get a magnifier, but that day is rapidly approaching.

Stick with it @Itainthalfhotmum , before you know it you'll be the saddest bloke on your street, complete with nasal voice and cardigan! (I am currently sitting at my work-at-home PC awaiting the start of a TEAMS meeting, wearing a cardigan and a woolly hat surrounded by bits of a Stuart M5, so trust me, I know of that which I speak)
 

ches

LE
(I am currently sitting at my work-at-home PC awaiting the start of a TEAMS meeting, wearing a cardigan and a woolly hat surrounded by bits of a Stuart M5, so trust me, I know of that which I speak)

Me too, regular Mon AM catch up meeting & I'm looking at my dio base next to me thinking i'd love to chin this off & get the washes out & do some.
 
That's how they do it with the shoulder patches, too, isn't it, even today - the right arm patch appears backwards (or, as the flag would be seen if observing the pole from the north in a westerly wind)...?

Seems it's something to do with the stars having to always be forward as the US never retreats, or something:-

I asked a septic about the reversed flag, he told me pretty much the same.
 

Bubbles_Barker

LE
Book Reviewer
Didn't stop the buggers at the Kasserine Pass 19 - 24 February 1943. Mr Yank had it away on his toes, leaving shedloads of munitions and equipment for the Germans and Italians.
A kind of mini-Dunkirk eh?

I have to say they learnt pretty quickly!
 

Daz

LE
Also, bare in mind that quite often a lot of photo-etch is not really needed and is often added to bump up the parts count on the fret - look first at the plastic part that the PE part is to replace and ask yourself the question, "is it necessary and does it enhance the model", you'll be surprised how often the answers no.
 

Themanwho

LE
Book Reviewer
A kind of mini-Dunkirk eh?

I have to say they learnt pretty quickly!
Coming up against a first division enemy is an excellent learning experience, if you live through it!

A lot is made of Kasserine by those wanting to denigrate the Spams, and whilst it wasn't the US Army's finest hour, nor was it an absolute disaster (thanks in part to British formations digging in and holding on - something they were very good at - allowing their allies to regroup and re-join the fray).
 

offog

LE
It has been some time due to life getting in the way but the Marmon Herington has been dusted off.

@Simmerit I plan to use a number of those Miniart crew on it and although the poses and position is good the mouldings are dated and poor. Compared to some Warhammer figures my little boy got recently they were carved using a blunt knife using the wrong end of a telescope.

IMG_20210111_121959002.jpg


The observant amongst you will see the deliberate build problem that needs sorting now the component parts are being assembled.
IMG_20210111_122115409.jpg


IMG_20210111_122326191.jpg

There was no mountings for either guns or directions on where to put them just stick them through this gap and add glue. A number of different mounts for the bren were in use and eventually this mount was cut down in theatre to only be the bit at the front. The Boys mount was taken from drawings on line. When putting on the rest of the turret it became evident that the Boys was far too far back to be used and so a new mounting point was made in the turret.
IMG_20210124_224634558.jpg


As you can see I have completed the diorama base :D

IMG_20210124_224703633.jpg


IMG_20210111_122845077_HDR.jpg
 

Smeggers

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It has been some time due to life getting in the way but the Marmon Herington has been dusted off.

@Simmerit I plan to use a number of those Miniart crew on it and although the poses and position is good the mouldings are dated and poor. Compared to some Warhammer figures my little boy got recently they were carved using a blunt knife using the wrong end of a telescope.

View attachment 542763

The observant amongst you will see the deliberate build problem that needs sorting now the component parts are being assembled.
View attachment 542768

View attachment 542769
There was no mountings for either guns or directions on where to put them just stick them through this gap and add glue. A number of different mounts for the bren were in use and eventually this mount was cut down in theatre to only be the bit at the front. The Boys mount was taken from drawings on line. When putting on the rest of the turret it became evident that the Boys was far too far back to be used and so a new mounting point was made in the turret.
View attachment 542771

As you can see I have completed the diorama base :D

View attachment 542772

View attachment 542773
are you painting it in Caunter or SADF Beige?
 

Smeggers

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Book Reviewer
Glad to see I'm not the only one with winky vehicle parts. I'm also in the process of making a SA Marmon Herrington mkII. Good luck getting some SA decals, they seem to be rarer than hen's teeth! I have taken to using two new tools in my builds. One is easy to spot, the other, not so much. See how you get on.
IMG_20210125_204808.jpg
IMG_20210124_194602.jpg
 

offog

LE
Internal lighting looks good but can't spot the other bit.

@Smeggers I came to the conclusion that the guns should be mounted in front of the turret ring.

You seem to be a lot further forward than I on the build. It would be helpful to give me a heads up on problems you have encountered.

Due to putting in a signaller on the back seat I have yet to attach the roof or the back wall as I have a feeling that he may not fit or I will be unable to get him in. So next task will be to finish him off before going any further with the vehicle.
 

Smeggers

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Book Reviewer
Internal lighting looks good but can't spot the other bit.

@Smeggers I came to the conclusion that the guns should be mounted in front of the turret ring.

You seem to be a lot further forward than I on the build. It would be helpful to give me a heads up on problems you have encountered.

Due to putting in a signaller on the back seat I have yet to attach the roof or the back wall as I have a feeling that he may not fit or I will be unable to get him in. So next task will be to finish him off before going any further with the vehicle.
Checkout the footprints on the floor! Courtesy of some rubber stamps from e-bay.
The interior lighting is actually a double-ended torch, which can bend in any direction (ooh-er), useful for hands free modelling.
1. When attaching the engine doors on the front, bring them in 1mm from where they should be, otherwise you will not fit the front hooks
2. Dry fit your two-part bonnet as you may end up obstructing the will for the windshield to fit.
3. Have plenty of filler available.
4. Don't forget to add stored stuff opposite the radio.
I haven't begun to fathom out the fixing positions of the guns so will try and see.
 

Smeggers

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Book Reviewer
b0e43c4d8a1c5162445d6c1071ec20ac.jpg

2a76921b6aea9d5473454fc1f5dcab7e--armored-car-armored-vehicles.jpg
marmon-herrington_MkII_full.png

Don't know if any of these help?
 
Got myself into a similar boat trying to over detail a Tamiya King Tiger.
If you don't feel confident in tackling this then yeah get something cheaper, older & easier as a first stab getting back into it. But also look at the gun, can you knock together some sub-assemblies, ease yourself in, take your time, build confidence on larger elements. Once you've got all the larger pieces of a sub assembly together, put it to one side. Come back to it the next day, see where the fiddly stuff goes, approach each small part as modelling session in itself. Are you confident using tweezers? Some of them seem to be adept at launching tiny parts into the ether as soon as you grip a piece of plastic or PE. Practice on scrap.
I'd def invest in a magnifying head lamp of some sort, maybe a mag desk lamp as well. I use both & couldn't do much without either.
I bought myself a couple of pairs of decent magnification reading specs from one of the poundshops and an LED lamp. Cheap as chips and for me, far more comfortable than a magnifying headlamp thingy.
 
Glad to see I'm not the only one with winky vehicle parts. I'm also in the process of making a SA Marmon Herrington mkII. Good luck getting some SA decals, they seem to be rarer than hen's teeth! I have taken to using two new tools in my builds. One is easy to spot, the other, not so much. See how you get on.
View attachment 542981View attachment 542982
I think Star Decals make a set of Saffer markings, but don't quote me. Try Halifax Modeller's World, Dave stocks the Star stuff.
 
Checkout the footprints on the floor! Courtesy of some rubber stamps from e-bay.
The interior lighting is actually a double-ended torch, which can bend in any direction (ooh-er), useful for hands free modelling.
1. When attaching the engine doors on the front, bring them in 1mm from where they should be, otherwise you will not fit the front hooks
2. Dry fit your two-part bonnet as you may end up obstructing the will for the windshield to fit.
3. Have plenty of filler available.
4. Don't forget to add stored stuff opposite the radio.
I haven't begun to fathom out the fixing positions of the guns so will try and see.
Hi Smeggers

Not sure if this will be of any use to you and offog. The detail this chap is doing is mind boggling.

 
I've been toying with what I can do for this GB effort.

As I was/am already doing an Airfix early Tiger 1 (The old Academy pressing apparently):
airfix tiger.JPG

....a pressie from last year, I saw an article on 'Tiger 131' at Bovington, which, with a bit of fettling, I could achieve with the Airfix model so I sent away for the right decals and got these yesterday:
tiger 131 decals.JPG

That led to some research and I came across this photo of the exact location of capture:
Tiger 131 Tunisia_1943_NA2640.jpg

Ordered on Sunday night from models for sale and received this morning:
bedford mwd.JPG

Should make a nice little diorama that I'll try and get it done this side of Christmas.
 
I've been toying with what I can do for this GB effort.

As I was/am already doing an Airfix early Tiger 1 (The old Academy pressing apparently):
View attachment 543110
....a pressie from last year, I saw an article on 'Tiger 131' at Bovington, which, with a bit of fettling, I could achieve with the Airfix model so I sent away for the right decals and got these yesterday:
View attachment 543111
That led to some research and I came across this photo of the exact location of capture:
View attachment 543112
Ordered on Sunday night from models for sale and received this morning:
View attachment 543113
Should make a nice little diorama that I'll try and get it done this side of Christmas.
Don’t forget the 6 pounder round stuck in the Turret ring....
 

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