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Gardening Forum?

OldSnowy

LE
Book Reviewer
Weedkiller. The stuff I can buy in graden centres, etc, is crap. It seems to encourage growth rather than kill stuff. I remember stuff from years ago (swings lamp in his garden s***) that stopped weeds stone dead. The potions available now do very little, even at extra stregth.

any suggestions as to what to use in the following locations:

1. To kill weeds in crazy paving/ brick paving?

2. To keep down brambles/nettles/Japanese Knotweed.

Oh - and if possible, legal and practical solutions preferred. I.e. the use of tactical nuclear weaponry, White Phos and Napalm is not allowed. Can't get hold of it anyway.
 

phil245

LE
Book Reviewer
The best thing I have found for killing weeds on crazy paving is a very strong salt solution, mix a couple of pounds of salt with about 2 gallons of water in a watering can, stir well and water the weeds, add more water, stir again and repeat. The salt kills the roots and is not toxic to animals. Hope this helps.
 
The best thing I have found for killing weeds on crazy paving is a very strong salt solution, mix a couple of pounds of salt with about 2 gallons of water in a watering can, stir well and water the weeds, add more water, stir again and repeat. The salt kills the roots and is not toxic to animals. Hope this helps.
Think I'll need to give this a go
 

sundance

War Hero
Weedkiller. The stuff I can buy in graden centres, etc, is crap. It seems to encourage growth rather than kill stuff. I remember stuff from years ago (swings lamp in his garden s***) that stopped weeds stone dead. The potions available now do very little, even at extra stregth.

any suggestions as to what to use in the following locations:

1. To kill weeds in crazy paving/ brick paving?

2. To keep down brambles/nettles/Japanese Knotweed.

Oh - and if possible, legal and practical solutions preferred. I.e. the use of tactical nuclear weaponry, White Phos and Napalm is not allowed. Can't get hold of it anyway.

Roundup works a treat. I used it to clear out an overgrown area about 8x15m when I moved into my house. We're talking waist high nettles, brambles and ivy amongst other things. A 5litre spray pack followed up with another a month later and liberal application of fire from a garden weed burner took it back to bare earth. Rotivator through and grass seed down it now resembles a garden.


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Any arrses ID this beasty ? got hundreds of them in the soil .

Not under turf so not white grubs . only in the soil. i did grow a few strawbs this year but there little buggers are everywhere, in all the pots. toms, cucumbers, lettuce , everything.
 

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Dicey

LE
Weedkiller. The stuff I can buy in graden centres, etc, is crap. It seems to encourage growth rather than kill stuff. I remember stuff from years ago (swings lamp in his garden s***) that stopped weeds stone dead. The potions available now do very little, even at extra stregth.

any suggestions as to what to use in the following locations:

1. To kill weeds in crazy paving/ brick paving?

2. To keep down brambles/nettles/Japanese Knotweed.

Oh - and if possible, legal and practical solutions preferred. I.e. the use of tactical nuclear weaponry, White Phos and Napalm is not allowed. Can't get hold of it anyway.

No bullshit - get yourself a Sheen x300 flame gun weed burner. On e-bay around £50/£60 second-hand but I got mine new from Amazon for £150. Works by burning paraffin at temperatures over 2000C, two treatments spread over a week or so and it's bye-bye Mr Fecking-Weed.

Maybe a bit salty to buy initially but super-effective everywhere and on everything. You'll save a fortune in weed killer over the years and you won't be polluting your garden with chemical shit. But, even better, it's great fun to use - keep it away from kids/dogs but even more importantly, don't lend it to the neighbours, the buggers think that paraffin is free and moan if it's not full.

Edited to add: Don't bother with the much cheaper gas 'Weed-Wand' it doesn't burn at a high enough temperature to destroy the weed's cells. It's just a very large cigarette lighter.
 

Top_Man

War Hero
One of the strongest weed killers are fags (cigarettes aka tobacco). If you smoke, collect all your fag ends, put them in a bucket of water for a few days (or nick the fags ends from the pub), then use it particularly around paving. Works a treat.

Paraquet is sadly no longer available (officially). Now THAT KILLED EVERYTHING, down to about a foot and nothing would grow back for a long time.
 
Any arrses ID this beasty ? got hundreds of them in the soil .

Not under turf so not white grubs . only in the soil. i did grow a few strawbs this year but there little buggers are everywhere, in all the pots. toms, cucumbers, lettuce , everything.
They look a lot like vine weevil grubs to me, especially if their favorite home is in the soil in pots....they will munch their way through the roots of an incredibly wide range of plants, killing them quickly.
You can buy vine weevil insecticide which you dilute and water in two or three times a year around those plants you especially want to keep but it is eye wateringly expensive and, as it doesn't kill the adults, they will be back.
 
L

lumpy2

Guest
"Sh*d with Passiflora"

 

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Time to resurrect this thread I think.

Last year, about the end of June LBFM's mum sent us a kumquat tree (yeah I know) from the central highlands. I planted it in a pot and it responded by shoving out loads of new growth, lovely shiny dark green leaves - and within six weeks was covered in flowers which have a lovely scent.

The flowers gave way to fruit and I was looking forward to making kumquat jam, which if you have never had it, is lush.

About the end of November the leaves started to turn pale and yellowy and had white speckles on them. It dropped a few leaves and a couple of fruit, but a couple of weeks ago came into flower again. So now we have a sick looking tree with both flowers and fruit on it. Weird.

It had a few woolly aphids on it last year but I got rid of them. I have given it a foliage feed and a dressing with compost with added minerals and stuff, to no avail.

I have searched the web from end to end but cant find anything resembling the problem.

Anyone got any ideas whats wrong with it?

CIMG1580.jpg
 
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amapola

Old-Salt
It doesn't look like magnesium deficiency as that shows as more of a yellowing between the veins. Now that's the limit of my own knowledge but googling brings up spider mites as a common problem for container grown citrus plants. Have you ruled that out?
 
It doesn't look like magnesium deficiency as that shows as more of a yellowing between the veins. Now that's the limit of my own knowledge but googling brings up spider mites as a common problem for container grown citrus plants. Have you ruled that out?
I'll check, but I haven't been able to see anything on the tree. Whats bugging me is the white flecks, which are coloration and not mildew or anything.
 

The_Snail

ADC
RIP
I'll check, but I haven't been able to see anything on the tree. Whats bugging me is the white flecks, which are coloration and not mildew or anything.

Scientific answer is probably something like it's not getting enough proper light. It's a photosynthesis thingy, and to do with the chlorophyll (sp). C6H12O6 = 6CO2+something else+nice plant. That's probably the only thing I remember from school.

Give it some cold black tea - none of your namby pamby stuff - proper tea, with a bit of sugar. If it dies, it's not my fault though. It's yours for taking advice from me.
 
Spider mites is the only thing I can think of (other than mineral deficiency which doesn't seem likely if you are feeding it) that makes leaves go silvery like that. Mist the leaves regularly with water - mites like dry conditions - and see if it improves? Mites can be tiny so get a hand lens and look carefully.
 
Scientific answer is probably something like it's not getting enough proper light. It's a photosynthesis thingy, and to do with the chlorophyll (sp). C6H12O6 = 6CO2+something else+nice plant. That's probably the only thing I remember from school.

Give it some cold black tea - none of your namby pamby stuff - proper tea, with a bit of sugar. If it dies, it's not my fault though. It's yours for taking advice from me.
Sluggo I love you dearly, but, y'know, I live in the tropics and we get 12 hours of sunshine every day here. I'll drink the tea though. xx
 
Spider mites is the only thing I can think of (other than mineral deficiency which doesn't seem likely if you are feeding it) that makes leaves go silvery like that. Mist the leaves regularly with water - mites like dry conditions - and see if it improves? Mites can be tiny so get a hand lens and look carefully.
The leaves aren't silvery, the speckles are white/grey and the leaves which should be dark green and glossy are pale, yellowy and dull. I'll have another look for mites though.
 

bergen

Old-Salt
Weedkiller. The stuff I can buy in graden centres, etc, is crap. It seems to encourage growth rather than kill stuff. I remember stuff from years ago (swings lamp in his garden s***) that stopped weeds stone dead. The potions available now do very little, even at extra stregth.

any suggestions as to what to use in the following locations:

1. To kill weeds in crazy paving/ brick paving?

2. To keep down brambles/nettles/Japanese Knotweed.

Oh - and if possible, legal and practical solutions preferred. I.e. the use of tactical nuclear weaponry, White Phos and Napalm is not allowed. Can't get hold of it anyway.

Mix 1 gallon of cheap white vinegar with 2 cups of salt and a few drops of washing-up liquid and spray onto the weeds. Better than Roundup and clears Poison fecking Ivy, Black Briar, Brambles etc., or so my gardener tells me and he does a great job. My avocados, limes, oranges and grapefruit were particularly good last year.
 

The_Snail

ADC
RIP
The leaves aren't silvery, the speckles are white/grey and the leaves which should be dark green and glossy are pale, yellowy and dull. I'll have another look for mites though.

Tea solves everything.

Chlorosis.

When foliage loses its dark green color, it is called chlorosis and can be caused by a number of issues. Look for new foliage that turns yellow or pale green but still has dark green veins. Leaf yellowing on older leaves is not usually a sign of trouble. But if new leaves are turning yellow and disease or pests are not identified, other environmental conditions may be causing the problem. Yellowing leaves could indicate a lack of certain micronutrients, root rot, nematode attack, under-watering, insufficient light access, poor drainage or other nutritional issues.
 

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