Garage layout for storage... ideas and suggestions

Discussion in 'DIY' started by Blade-Runner, Jul 28, 2012.

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  1. Ok.... DIY time of the year and looking to fit out my garage for basic storage (including the abundance of mil kit unless any takers on here lol) and a small work bench etc.

    Had a look online for ideas but most things that came up were American sites boasting huge floor space and flat screen TVs! So... I have come to seek wisdom from Arrse and what may be the best layout for a typical British sized garage... you know the ones where you can barely fit a mini in (the old type).

    There are already lighting and a double socket which is good, so dont need to faf about with electrics and I have my tumble drier in there already. I also have small wardrobe thing crammed with mil kit, but with boots, belt kit etc I'd rather get them off the floor and put on shelves, esp when I get issued gear for Herrick as I wont be taking it all with me! Other things are 'stored' in there but it is a bit of a quagmire, as no shelving or cabinets in place yet.

    So really its how to make the best use of the space and what type of shelving would any of you recommend? I have seen flexi shelving, but it seems to be fiddly with all the bits and bobs that go with it. In my mind I'd prefer to put up basic solid shelving made from normal brackets and hardwood for the shelves.

  2. You can do ALL of this yourself with a little bit of work, and it will be much better than anything you buy...

    first off, is it YOUR garage or rented?

    How big, what shape, waht sort of doors, how much space do you have (ie once the car is in) and do you have loft space?
  3. I own the place. Amongst the list of things, I have partially floored the loft and put lighting up there, but really only for xmas decorations, luggage and cds/DVDs as everything is downloadable now.

    I'd rather build most of it myself as buying ready made items is not cost effective. I found this as a starter for my work bench. I was going to fix the worktop to the garage wall but after seeing the below video, it gives the option of being able to move things around if need be.

    Build a Garage Workbench Video - YouTube
  4. The type of shelving with uprights that have twin slots that different length brackets click into are very good and fairly cheap.

    Together with apple boxes from the supermarket, you can get a good storage system for peanuts.... Tesco's are best, try to get matching boxes then they will stack.

    Get stick on labels and write on what's in each box.

    Don't forget the roof...... a series of U brackets screwed to the joists will hold any long stuff you want out of the way.
  5. The shed at the top of my garden is the same size as a garage. before I shelved it all the stuff was stored neatly round the walls in a hollow square.

    I got metal shelving from an old office complex for free, after spending about an hour helping the security guy clear his offices of stuff to the skips outside.

    I now have two rows of metal shelving round the walls, and some hooks for my bike etc.

    There is a small table in the corner for tools, and a wooden box in the corner for storing gardening items.

    Putting anything up on the walls saves a massive amount of floorspace. The metal shelving is very robust and can take a surprising amount of heavy kit. All the items on my shelving is in order and easy to locate.

    Painting the walls matt white will make the space seem bigger.
  6. Assuming it is not that wide, but long (most seem to be), build a unit at the far end. A counter running from wall to wall witht the dry stashed underneath. Shelves running up the wall, Make the shelves wider as they go up and put an edge on them abov e head hight. you can use a step ladder to access them. This permenant bench could have an area with a vice etc for heavy duty hammering.

    Along the sides, put a bench that folds down. Then when the car is out, you pop it up and you can work. Narrow shelves above car/head height allow for storage of things like nails and stuff.

    Pop up in to the attic space and see if you strengthen that area for extra storage.

    Have you considered going down? A 6ft long, 1 ft deep and 2 foot wide ad covered with thick planks. Provides storage and a place to work under the car.
  7. You could make a cracking workbench using large fenceposts and bolts. I still have one from years ago made from posts nailed together.

    Farm suppliers are a good place to get the items cheaply.
  8. Tsing Tao beer cartons boxes are good, they are tough, can safely stack in need to about seven high filled with books, or about six high if books but only half full. They seal well seal with tape. I think they are something like about 19" x 11" x 13"?

    I found wooden shelving to support them far more efficent (two high), and much much cheaper than any slotted shelving, and shelf space them to stack two high, which is dead efficient on space.
    All the plastic boxes I have seen are grooved for strength and that takes space. I size my shelving to loft floor packs of chipboard, heavy but cheaper than thinner big sheets.

    If you are not a heavyweight drinker who likes the beer, the back of Chinese restaurants is a good free source :)

    I generally use 3x2 timber but I always overengineer and 2x2 bolted to the wall should be adequate for most mixed stuff you want to store. If you are mostly clothing with no real weight, Wickes do cheap whitewood for plasterboarding around 2 1/2 x 1 1/2 which is planed, dirt cheap (around the £2-30 for an eight foot length), corkscrewed.

    Just saw Country Joe's post, I have used 3 x 3 for heavy shelving before. I tend to use bolts also rather than bother joointing, makes the system more moveable!

    Also , worth looking around for reclaimed timber yards, there is an excellent one in Liverpool for example, and it cuts down usually to about 1/4 - 1/3 the price of new shiny cheap softwood.
  9. Keep an eye on the small ads, I got a set of 20 kitchen unit doors for £100, made my own carcases, only the worktop was new / full price. Now got L-shaped fitted units on two walls, a place for everything and plenty of long flat storage on the worktops. 5.5m is the longest run. Can work on canoes, fishing rods, everything really, and a 110 litre bergan fits in one of the cupboards. All-up costs (hinges in bulk, cheapest handles etc) came to the same as doing the two runs with good quality clip-together shelving units, about £250, just took a bit longer.
  10. I dont plan to use the garage to park the car, only for a motorbike when I eventually get one. I want to keep any shelving off the floor as some floor space is taken up already with the drier and small pine wardrobe. There is only one door for access which is the main one at the front. Some wall space has been taken up by the gas boiler and consumer unit (house builders are getting rather lazy but I can see why they put it there).

    Furthermore, I got a piece of buckshee worktop from Ikea to use as a work surface. If I build a frame, I dont want to screw from the top down to fit it as it will look silly. Do I construct an inner frame in order to screw from the bottom up?

  11. Better use for it than drinking it too.

    Tsing Tao, Mandarin for piss.

    I only ever drink the stuff at Wong Kei's in London, and remember why after the first bottle.

    For a small outlay, why don't you get some of them hanging wardrobes from Ikea for all the spare CS95 and stuff?

    My garage looks like a fercking bomb factory and I had to explain the assault vests hanging up when a plumber came around.

    (Good job I'd taken down the Shahada flag).

    Oh, and mousetraps. Little bastards are a menace to books in boxes. Or get a cat, well a pair for best results.
  12. Well said about the mouse traps!

    From the description of the space, I would say that you need about 6.
  13. I built a load of racks using 'scant' timber from a timber merchants, I used 3" x 2" timbers cut down the length (by the timber merchant) to give me a finished 'section' of about 1, 1/2" x 2". I used these to make up 'ladders' for the main frames and built shelves made from tanalised slate lath 3/4" x 1, 1/2" because it's relatively cheap to buy. These have given me purpose built shelves which allow a good airflow through because garages are traditionally quite damp environments in winter. I've stored some items (on the top shelves) in cardboard boxes I got from supermarkets and some (on the bottom shelves) in large plastic boxes with lids that I got from a local town market stall. I got the boxes first and made the shelves to suit them so everything fits neatly on there. Some of the racks have very thin plywood sheeting on top for smaller items that will fall through the racks, but closed or lidded boxes keep things together, allow for good labelling and keep the dust off.

    Edited to add: everything was pre-drilled and screwed together, it takes longer, but it's well worth the effort and nothing splits or creaks.
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