from Old English White to green moss and rust

Mark_Addy

Old-Salt
I wouldn't know where to start to re-align that door trailing edge - the whole thing is quite a deep box section, isn't it? I'd be very interested to see how you do it. Also, I am shite at welding thin stuff, even though I use MIG. The only way I have had any success, is to keep the current high-ish (or I just get bird-shit) and try to lay down a load of spots which join up with each other. Any attempt at a normal run of weld, and I end up chasing holes. So any comments on that would be welcome too. (My current car, an '05, is so thin I may try using methacrylate glue to stick patches on when the time comes, and lots of underseal! We use this (expensive) glue at work - it's amazing stuff).
 
Any attempt at a normal run of weld,
getting that crackle you hear when you have the correct wire speed and power setting is something you only learn by experimenting on scrap materials of the same thickness, those two settings combine to give you a good weld, All the other considerations, cleaning the material free of oil, rust, paint dirt ect, having a good earth, as close to the work piece as possible without it getting in the way, Then the comfortable posture to work back or forehanded, these are all secondary to the two correct settings, so practice and make notes, And if it's a running car, watch the fire hazzard!
 
Back to the problem of the left door fit this morning, had a break from it Yesterday as it was feel good Thursday, where I get to run my 6km routine, after recovering 6 weeks from a Calf strain, been away from running so I'm returning to it step by step, turned 59 years young this June, so I'm happy to take it easy.

The door fit needs some careful analysis before I go on as it's something I haven't worked out yet, what's wrong, why won't the door fit, it should, but something is preventing it locking forward enough. I think I know what it is...

so to explain it fully I need to share some details with you all, starting with this, the screw plate, it's bent. But that's not the whole problem. Note the orientation and screw holes lettered A,B,C,D. This becomes more relevant later.
door hinge screw plate ANNO A.png

this plate is from the other side, A and B face the curve of the inner wing side.

the door removed I've fitted the screws and shown them in the order ABC, D has no role. Don't know why it's there to be honest. Note the fine cracks in the hinge housing between A & B.
screw upper anno b.png

looking inside with the screws tight and the screw plate hard up against the hinge housing where it would be if the door were fitted and the hinges screws all tight. This shot is taken through the empty glove box housing looking toward the left side of the car with the removed door in the background, leaning against the wall.

The most important aspect of this image is gap L 40mm.
screw upper anno c.png
 
The span gap L on the other side is 35mm, I can't account for the size difference, but it has made fitting the screws and drawing the left door forward to close the gap at the front and relieve the tight fit at the rear door edge difficult, the door on the left is a replacement, hence the traces of red and blue paint. So what happened to the car to make the replacement of another door, impact? causing the Gap L and the cracks in the hinge housing?
comparison with other side B.png
 
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another snag is the tab that holds the screw plate in position have been crushed flat, hard to see them as they are behind that pipework.
screw upper anno d.png

as you can't see them, I'll put my limited drawing skills to good use in my Bovington Tank Museum gift shop Notebook, David Wiley would be impressed. Such mechanical use for a Bovy notebook.
sketch of the tab.png

he'd be less impressed with some of the other stuff in there...
Kay's Colleagues.png

off with the door again.
door off again.png

finally, after grubbing around blind, touch only, found the tab and bent it out with a screwdriver both ends, bit of a spine twist, but got there in the end. Here it is marked H.
found the tab.png

just need to slide the screw plate on, strung so it won't disappear all the way down the black hole, when, not if, I drop it.
door hinge screw plate strung up.png
 
Plate back on using the tags but no dice, it just won't engage with the machine screws, they screw up when it's hand held, but in there it goes SNAFU. So what is it?
door hinge screw plate bent A.png

then I untied it and held it up for examination with an Odontology scale.
door hinge screw plate bent C.png

Buy new one's you Numpty!
 

Mark_Addy

Old-Salt
Will it not bend flat in the vice (I assume it's meant to be flat, that's why you've used a straight edge)? Perhaps (in your lower picture) three bits of 1/4" rod, two below (L&R) and one above (central), squeeze gently? I'm a tight arse, and often spend hours avoiding throwing something away which I could replace for not much money. Then again, my time isn't worth much and I tell myself it's the journey, not the destination...
 
Will it not bend flat in the vice
I have had a go at straightening it but it's bent in so many planes, so easier to replace it for new. testing it each time when you've gone to a lot of trouble to line it up holding the door on a jack just ain't worth the grief. Mind you, wish I could fix it, they're £26 each.
old and new comparison screw plate.png

new and old comparison.png
 
Today I expended A Litre of light grey primer and a litre of Celle thinner on the body shell to test my new compressor and paint spray gun. Didn't get all the way around, but 90% of the body covered. I'll order some more and crack on. see if I can get five or six coats of primer on it before the first flat down and re-coat before body colour.
overview result first paint gun coat of primer b.png
 

Mark_Addy

Old-Salt
I have had a go at straightening it but it's bent in so many planes, so easier to replace it for new. testing it each time when you've gone to a lot of trouble to line it up holding the door on a jack just ain't worth the grief. Mind you, wish I could fix it, they're £26 each.

I no longer have a 'proper job'. I understand your pain, but I'd do quite a lot to save 26 quid :)

(That's much more a poor reflection on me, than it is on you!).
 
I've dug out the body tags that go inside the front luggage bay, I had to drill them out as the surfaces they were riveted to have been replaced, so I'll paint the last coat of chassis black and drill ready to pop rivet them back in.
body tags b.png
 

Joshua Slocum

LE
Book Reviewer
I've dug out the body tags that go inside the front luggage bay, I had to drill them out as the surfaces they were riveted to have been replaced, so I'll paint the last coat of chassis black and drill ready to pop rivet them back in.
View attachment 673547




 
I thought I'd run out of rust for this project, but here's some more on the way. I decided late in the day to remove all the weight in the passenger door, take out the locks and window mechanism and the glass pane.
mech removal before.png

undo these three bolts that hold the winder into the door space.
mech removal anno bolts.png

and these from the winder handle.
mech removal bolts out from winder.png
 
as the mechanism was loosened , rust fell into the bottom of the door and two large lumps fell with a clonk.
mech removal rusty wreckage.png

the mechanism came out reasonably easy.
mech out rusty mess.png

the guide track is supposed to slide, not much chance of that here.
mech out rusty mess cu of jambed track.png

at least the glass can be re-used
mech removal out door glass and mech.png

the door is a lot lighter with the lock taken off, handy to help me make it test fit.
mech removal door glass out gv.png
 
Body tags replaced under the bonnet in the front of the nose.
body tags refitted a.png

the main tag with the chassis identification number went onto a replacement panel. the holes re drilled and the tag pop rivetted on, tatty as it is, it's the original plate.
body tags refitted c.png

the smaller tag is back on in it's original position, rivetted through the same holes. I think this may be the paint code?
body tags refitted b.png
 

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