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from Old English White to green moss and rust

I'm pleased with the repair work I've done on this tinware, saved myself some of the budget and saved an original part.
black and dry rear tin.png
 
off with the Solex Carb
removal of carb.png

I've ordered the rebuild kit for this, looks like it needs a total strip....
removed carb.png

cleanup and new seals gaskets and jet
removed carb b.png
 
taken off the top pulley wheel. These part go back on when the fan belt is removed.
upper pulley components.png

clutch off, that doesn't look too badly worn to me. Might be able to reuse it.
clutch plate front.png
 
the fly wheel with the clutch removed, how does that come off? need the bolt holes free so I can bolt it to the engine stand mount, when it arrives.
fly wheel with clutch removed.png

purchased a brand new valve cover, here it is with the better old one, the worse one had it's edge rusted away.
old and new valve covers.png

into the dip it goes
old valve cover in the electro dip.png
 
the clutch plate removed from the dip, having spent the night de rusting. Coat of gloss black garage door paint on the valve cover plate.
clutch plate out of the dip.png
 
in the meantime, my Morris Minor 1000 pickup needs a bit of TLC, The local car paint supplier does air cans with my particular code of paint.
paint can a.png

very handy as the load bed get's a knock here and there and I krust any emerging rust spots, they turn matt black.
paqint can target a.png

paint can target c.png

Cellulose paint is dead easy to use, especially from a can, but always wear a mask.
paint can target result a.png
 

Joshua Slocum

LE
Book Reviewer
That clutch plate is going to need machining, I’d have thought replacing the clutch completely would have been a better option?
Too much pitting and rust weakened springs.
yes cheaper to replace it now, than to pull the engine out
alos when you painted it, the paint may A cause it to go out of balance and B melt when the clutch heats up and cause the plates to slip
its a consumable after all
 
I thought the same , it would be best practice to replace but seeing how captian Sprock, likes more than a tinker, and knowing how easy it is to get at the cutch components I thought that it had a few more miles in it.
Also the design is ancient, so as for for "Machining". I think a good hard seeing to with some 40 grit and a hand block would suffice.
 
Last edited:

Slime

LE
in the meantime, my Morris Minor 1000 pickup needs a bit of TLC, The local car paint supplier does air cans with my particular code of paint.
View attachment 510352
very handy as the load bed get's a knock here and there and I krust any emerging rust spots, they turn matt black.
View attachment 510353
View attachment 510354
Cellulose paint is dead easy to use, especially from a can, but always wear a mask.
View attachment 510355

Did you get your rattle can mixed by code or by scanner?
I’ve got into the habit of taking parts to the paint mixers and having them scanned to get the colour.
 
yes cheaper to replace it now, than to pull the engine out
alos when you painted it, the paint may A cause it to go out of balance and B melt when the clutch heats up and cause the plates to slip
its a consumable after all
yes I may do just that, love to save it, but it could cause gnashing of teeth further down the line, not the easiest engine to get at when it's in is it.
 
Did you get your rattle can mixed by code or by scanner?
I’ve got into the habit of taking parts to the paint mixers and having them scanned to get the colour.
that code on the can is the ICI code for older colours, newer colours as you say, have a barcode.
paint can.png
 
oh joy fellas, am I allowed to have this much fun? The Engine stand arrived today, unboxed and laid out like Colour Sgt Mac liked us to have our CES, on an oily tank shed floor.
components layout.png


the parts match the list too, all checked off ok
parts list.png


time for some building.
assembly instructions.png
 

Slime

LE
that code on the can is the ICI code for older colours, newer colours as you say, have a barcode.
View attachment 510618
We might be at crossed purposes :)
By scanner I meant the paint mixers popping a scanner on a part and doing a bespoke mix. Very useful for faded paint or for paint with no available manufacturer code or RAL number available. Just like taking a kettle or toaster etc to B and Q and getting the colour copied. :)

I only mentioned it as lately I’ve needed to respray some parts with random colours.
 

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