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from Old English White to green moss and rust

Quick tip with the engine, never turn it over with the distributor removed,
What happens is the distributor drive creeps up the crankshaft gear that drives it and pops out of mesh, this then knocks the timing out,

Thought it would be more helpful giving you this info before you start on the engine, it caught me out many years ago
 
thanks for that tip Paddy.

first step, popping off the side valve covers, starting with the right side,
right valve cover popped.png

no problems there, just a bit of calcified and hardened oil. That should clean up ok.
valve cover popped off right.png


Different story on the left side, popped it off to a flood of engine oil all over my oil stained floor, I'm running out of sand to soak it up.
escape of oil from open valve cover left.png
 
so up onto the workmate went the motor, with a gap in the middle of the bench I was able to drain the sump oil, before returning the lump to the floor dolly, with help from my son Harry. Here's the smelly old oil caught in a can for disposal at my local recycling centre.
oil out.png

next, the spark plugs, but the Haynes says to use the special tool that came with the car!
view into sparkplug ports.png
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
so up onto the workmate went the motor, with a gap in the middle of the bench I was able to drain the sump oil, before returning the lump to the floor dolly, with help from my son Harry. Here's the smelly old oil caught in a can for disposal at my local recycling centre.
View attachment 508362
next, the spark plugs, but the Haynes says to use the special tool that came with the car!
View attachment 508364
Looks straight forward, what special tool?
 
Looks straight forward, what special tool?
I don't know, one didn't come with the car. But by what Mr Haynes describes, it's a tool that prevents the plug dropping inside the tinwork and rattling around in there getting lost. But as I'm stripping it all off, it's not going to be a problem. But my 14mm socket isn't doing the job at this stage.
 
I don't know, one didn't come with the car. But by what Mr Haynes describes, it's a tool that prevents the plug dropping inside the tinwork and rattling around in there getting lost. But as I'm stripping it all off, it's not going to be a problem. But my 14mm socket isn't doing the job at this stage.
I’ve a feeling, it’s a plug spanner with a rubber insert. Grips the porcelain part of the plug.
 
off came the front tinware that is secured by rusted screws either side, slot screws that simply rounded off, and so out came the cutting disc.
front tinware cut off.png

comparing the one off the engine with one I have in among a load of spares I picked up in the deal, it's in slightly better condition, less rust, but too many subtle differences to let it fit.
comparison of original part and spare part in storage.png

the same goes for the one I took of the back of the engine.
comparison of original rear part and spare part in storage.png
 
with the pullet wheel free at the front, I was able to get a socket spanner on there and give it a few rapid turns, it moved very smoothly, I then used a long screwdriver to test for deflection of the pulley wheel, none was found, so that's a good sign.
no deflection of pulley wheel.png

I'll try and renovate the engine tinware, If I fail I can purchase a new set, but I'll try.
front in the electro dip b.png
 

wafubustard

War Hero
I do know that those VW engines can run when you have deflection of the pulley wheel. Somehow my van managed to limp onto the side of the road with a very rough reconditioned engine that was still being run in after being fitted.
When the AA turned up they checked over the engine and decided to run it to hear how it sounded. very quickly he came to the decision to shut it down as the pulley wheel was bouncing in and out.
One long trip from Oxford to Cornwall on the back of a truck followed. I will say that Mrs WB was very happy as she was 8 months pregnant at the time.

Back at the garage that fitted the engine they found that the crank had snapped in half. I think the VW Gods had been looking out for me that day as no further damage had been done, only the crank was in half. I still had everything replaced correctly.
 
left in the electro dip overnight, out it came this morning and the rust just scrubbed off with a toothbrush.
water soluble rust.png

pinholes, a problem I wasn't expecting, a good coat of krust and hang it up to dry off.
rear engine shelf drying after krust.png
 

Ex_crab

Old-Salt
Lubricated threads (that aren't meant to be) can also lead to over-torquing of the fasteners. There's nothing wrong with putting an anti-sieze compound on bolt shanks, personally, i'd never put it on threads unless specified, even then, I wouldn't use copperslip for anything but wheel hubs. For threads, a nice, thin machine oil is best.


What he said. With torqued bolts, lubricating can lead to 25% over torquing.
 
Pineholes , I've been on the VW heritage website, e bay and it would appear they are all both pricey and different to this one, in one way or another. So it's preserve rather than replace.
holes in rear tin.png

the rusted holes area is ok on this one from my spares stash, cut and weld and make it fit.
green donor piece.png
 
marking out very carefully as I don't want to scrap this part due to an error. cut out with a cutting disc.
tineware weld c.png

with the rust holed part cut free, I can use it to mark out the donor piece.
tineware weld b.png

marking up the donor
tineware weld d.png
 
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the part marked out on the donor piece using a thick marker pen
tineware weld e.png

tac welded on, the metal is thin, so I'm using minimum settings on the welder, not holding in one place too long for heat to build up and burn the thin metal away.
tineware weld a.png
 
smoothed off, painted black and hung up to dry.
rear plate painted black and hung.png

removing ancillary parts of the engine, off with the coil, and wire connections labelled.
coil in the box with labels.png
 

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