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from Old English White to green moss and rust

could you tell what it is before scrolling down? yep the holes for the master cylinder are on the left not on the right.
holes on wrong side c.png

if you buy this 43mm hole drilling tool from B&Q like I did, it comes in two parts, no instructions, and you need a nut not supplied in the kit, or mentioned by the staff member who I approached. Lucky I had one in the scrap nut and bolt spares box. In future I'm sodding their sensitivities and I'm ripping open the sealed packaging in the store to see if it all fits together with what is supplied.
auger bit.png

however, have to say, it's very effective.
drilling the greater hole. cut throughpng.png
through to the other side, and the nice neat cut piece can be used for....
breaking on through the other side yeah.png

oh yes sir that will patch in nicely, suits you sir.
suits you sir.png

don't start getting cockey now, it was your ass up in the first place.
don't get cockey now you Donkey.png
I've made the mother of all simple and silly mistakes, I've welded in my Napoleon's hat in back to front. Now it wouldn't be problem if it was a left hand drive, the hat is symmetrical. Apart from one small, admittedly rectifiable factor.
View attachment 501041
So you really are human ! shift happens .
A test fit of the peddle cluster, just to see how they might fit. this area was rusted away, but I now wish I'd taken more pictures of them, I know, me, wishing I'd taken more pictures. Lesson learnt.
pedals position a.png

it's the accelerator pedal anchor point that puzzles me, where does it sit?
accelerator pedal possible position a.png
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here's the master cylinder yoke passing through the newly cut hole toward where the master cylinder would be.
the master cylinder poker through the hole.png

Can't find any you tube videos showing these type of pedals, with the flat tube with the accelerator link bar going through it, I feel like the only bloke in the world with these type of pedals.
here's the accelerator link bar the other side of the tunnel, odd why it isn't inside the tunnel?
the accelerator throttle linkage.png
going back in time, this is how it looked, you can just see the accelerator peddle mounted rearward of the other pedals.
chassis inside the workshop.png

a later view taken after some of it was disassembled. the thick bar it all sits on, I've placed that back in the same place.
dismantling brake pipes front.png

peddle location latest.png

the latest for comparison
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Piecing this together like a puzzle, the Haynes is of limited help, so the sear like notches on the bottom of the pedals, are stops. What do they stop against?
accelerator pedal annotated notches.png

There's nothing on the plate to engage with them, then again there's that hole, and I wondered what this bracket was for, it has to be the pedal stop bracket to engage with those stops on the pedals.
pedal stop plate.png
apparently not, according to this original shot of the old rusty floor. you can see that same bracket slightly more forward from where I show it above.
pedals removed.png
final position of the peddles, they will have to be unbolted and removed to fit the cables later on.
pedle location prior to cables.png

moved the gearbox to the bench for it's bellhousing final clean up prior to being re-installed.
gearbox moved to bench.png

cutting off the gaiters with a stanley knife then finished with scissors, very little in the way of grease in here.
scissor off old boots.png
reference picture of how the handbrake flex hoses connect to the swing axles.
hamndbrake cabler ends.png

the bubber blocks at the tail end of the gearbox mount have seen better days, the left one has partly separated, so I'll re-new them both.
rear gearbox mount rubber seperated.png
The front wheels on, haven't seen them fitted for a while, this really stabilizes the whole rig at the front from the twisting and turning on the stands while I'm refitting the transmission.
wheels back on front.png

the nose cone rubber seal is worn out, add that to the next shopping list.
nose cone seal.png
preparing to re attach the gearbox back onto the chassis. I'm pleased with the rubber gaiters and the way they screw closed with the small nuts and bolts.
swing axle gaiters with issue straps close up.png

I joined the two edges using resin glue two part epoxy, before bolting them up. I'm far less impressed with the rather crap VW issue straps, you need a special tool, available from VW. Why not just issue jubilee clips? So I'm replacing them.
swing axle gaiters with issue straps.png
on with the gearbox/transmission re fitting, light enough to be lifted single handed, bulky enough to get me breathing heavy. Back in general position on top of the engine support arms.
gearbox back in position.png

the nose cone rubber boot was a mystery,here's the old and new
nose cone rubber bush.png

it has a outer flange suggesting it fits from inside the hole, but it's too large, even after being softened up in hot water, so on it went on the outside of the hole on the actual nose cone, when the gearbox is pushed forward into place it seals up ok.
nose cone rubber bush dewployed.png

tail end rubber blocks bolted up fine
rear gearbox mount rubber deployed. bpng.png

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