Army Rumour Service

This is a sample guest message. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

from Old English White to green moss and rust

what do we call this process, Electrolysis or electro plating? dunno, but it's good at turning rust back into usable material, only limited to the size that will fit in a bowl of water with some caustic soda in it, red on the sacrificial piece of scrap, black on the piece you want to save/improve/derust.
View attachment 498200
you can see tiny bubbles emitting from the edge of the rusty brake backing plate. making sure they don't come into contact with one another or a fuse will blow in the battery charger.
View attachment 498201
You should keep your clips above the water otherwise the process will corrode them. MM
 
clean off that constant velocity grease, and chip out the securing metal spiral that holds the wide part secure.
rubber dust cap removal c.png

with the grease cleaned off it's a great chance to inspect the ball joint for play, this one is fine and I'm going to use it again with a new rubber dust cover, when they arrive.
rubber dust cap removal d.png
 
the lower ball joints are easily do able. here it is with it's new dust cover.
rubber dust cap new fitted to ball joint.png


but there is now way I'll be able to get he dust cap over the adjuster on the bottom arms.
rubber dust cap wont fit on upper ball joint.png
 
so, thinking outside the box, self amalgamating tape over the rubber dust cap, and a nipple added to the bottom of the ball joint cap. Hole drilled, just need to tap it and screw in the grease nipple.
rubber dust cap omitted tapping hole.png
 
tapped....
rubber dust cap tapping hole.png

and new grease nipple on the end of a grease gun, a few pumps and the new fresh grease starts to force out the old grease from the ten Mil tear in the dust cover of the ball joint. Now where did I put that self amalgamating tape?
rubber dust cap tap hole grease nipple test.png
 
assembling something at last, offering up the knuckle and stub axle up to the ends of the suspension arms.
re assembling left suspension arms knuckle.png

the arms connection was surprisingly straight forward, line up the grub screw hole with the dimple in the torsion bar and tighten it all up with a lock nut.
re assembling left suspension arms a.png
 
Split in both upper ball joint boots, the lips sagging out all greasy and hanging open.
pre amal tape.png

self amalgamating tape to the rescue.
self amalgemating tape.png

Young Teddy looks on with trepidation, hoping, will it do the trick?
teddy bodkin.jpg

the tape wrapped around the part and seals itself to itself forming a grease
tight seal, time now to pump the boot full of grease through the newly tapped grease nipple.
self amalgamating tape on the rubber.png
 
the anti sway bar now, this just lends stiffness to the frontal structure. realized I hadn't painted the actual bar, it's jet black after it's krust coat has had weeks to dry off, but a quick coat of black paint, just to stop the surface rust returning.
painted bar.png

the rubbers that hold the bar need a spot of grease in them to stop them fighting the bar as they slide along it into place.
rubbers with copper ease.png
 
the bar tied on with string to hold it in place.
tied on with string.png

the rubbers are given a spray of wd40 so the clip doesn't bind, press the clip closed and on goes the clamp lock, bend up the tab and it's done.
fitted a.png

the sway bar in position
fitted b.png
 

Oyibo

LE
Racing along there Sprocket. Great fun reading this thread - thank you
 
Tapping out the larger oil seal and bearing, using a drift and hammer.
race removed from hub A.png

"Now what's that Tapping noise, can't a little fella get some peace and quiet on a Sunday Morning"
Teddy whats that sound of hammering.jpg


view inside the brake drum, at the furthest point at the bottom is the second race, I may as well replace all four races in the front hubs. More tapping, sorry Teddy.
race removed view into drum hub.png
 

Joshua Slocum

LE
Book Reviewer
It's much easier to replace wheel bearings while it's stripped, when I bought the moxford 35 years ago, I noticed a slight shudder on one wheel bearing, lack of use meant the grease had dried up exacerbating wear, I replaced all of the wheel bearings and seals at the same time, hopefully they won't need attention again
I worked through the car on that principle
 
It's much easier to replace wheel bearings while it's stripped, when I bought the moxford 35 years ago, I noticed a slight shudder on one wheel bearing, lack of use meant the grease had dried up exacerbating wear, I replaced all of the wheel bearings and seals at the same time, hopefully they won't need attention again
I worked through the car on that principle
yes good advice, I'll replace the bearings and the races, just for now I'll use the old ones for moving the unit about the workshop.
 
I've made the mother of all simple and silly mistakes, I've welded in my Napoleon's hat in back to front. Now it wouldn't be problem if it was a left hand drive, the hat is symmetrical. Apart from one small, admittedly rectifiable factor.
holes on wrong side.png
 

Latest Threads

Top