from Old English White to green moss and rust

This nasty little rust hole was next on the list.
nasty little rust hole.png

made quick work of it with the angle grinder cutting disc.
cut away rusted portion.png
 
oddly there was foam packed up inside, unsure if it's an insulation material placed there by VW in 1972, or insulation placed there from one of the Mickey Mouse Characters that claimed the car when it was abandoned, to make a cosy little nest, it's not very chewed, so it must be VW.
cut away rusted portion and foam filling.png
 
the rusted out portion to the rear upper left, another nasty little rust hole that needs attention.
rusted out section of rear scuttle left side.png

cut out, keeping the cutting disc inboard of the pencil line.
cut out rusted hole.png
 
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comparison with the old rusted cut out piece, and it's replacement.
new and rusted left upper rear.png

quite a nice tight fit, too tight for butt weld clamps
cut out rusted hole filled with new metal.png

welded in.
cut out rusted hole filled with new metal.welded inpng.png


now to fabricate the curves of the shoulders.
 
nice dry day, so wheeled Mickey out for a breath of fresh air, and a chance to have an overview.
Mickey's new tail end.png

the Chassis sits outside, normally covered with a plastic sheet, haven't done anything to it at all since the separation, ;looking forward to the day when I can go over it with some break cleaner, see what I've got, or rather what I need to replace.
Mickey top and bottom.png
 
Quick question, are you any good at lead loading or are you going to use filler?

I have had a go at it a few times with mixed results. Half the time I ended up skimming it with filler anyway and more lead on the floor than in the repair.
But it is a good technique for rust holes like the above.
 
Quick question, are you any good at lead loading or are you going to use filler?

I have had a go at it a few times with mixed results. Half the time I ended up skimming it with filler anyway and more lead on the floor than in the repair.
But it is a good technique for rust holes like the above.
lead loading is a real skill that's been lost with the advent of really excellent, modern plastic fillers like the type I use, easy-sand. The body shops use it as it's fast, effective and cost efficient and healthier than smelting lead. I use it because like you I find most of the lead on the floor rather than on the body. Easy sand can be, well, sanded.
 
having removed the window, found rust on the lower run of the window frame.
window frame ros rust.png

after a flap disc off, the frame doesn't appear too bad.
window frame ros rust wheels clear.png

the nearside window frame is a different story. Time to start on one of the rust holes.
rust holes in r n s window frame bottom.png
 
using the dremol here as a angle grinder disc can't fit between the hole and the frame raised edge.
using the dremol on window hole one.png

the cut holes left by the dremol
hole one cut around.png

the pieces are easy to pick out, here they are to the left of the new square hole.
hole one cut out.png
 

Slime

LE
I’ll add that I really enjoy your updates too.

Normally I enjoy seeing the progress as I enjoy car restoration, but am enjoying them even more at the moment as Corona virus has meant Ive not been well enough to do any of my own projects :)

Whether the thread is a full sized car, or a model tank, I enjoy the updates on ‘hands on’ projects.
 
the hole covers an enclosed void that precludes the use of butt weld clamps as the metal blocks would not be recoverable, also the repair piece would be lost if it fell into the void, so the masking tap holds it in position as it's tac welded in.
hole one masking tape b.png

tac welded in, it needs further welding and grinding to make it flush.
hole one welded.png
 
I’ll add that I really enjoy your updates too.

Normally I enjoy seeing the progress as I enjoy car restoration, but am enjoying them even more at the moment as Corona virus has meant Ive not been well enough to do any of my own projects :)

Whether the thread is a full sized car, or a model tank, I enjoy the updates on ‘hands on’ projects.
oh mate, sorry to hear that, I know what you mean by not feeling up to project work, I couldn't make head or tail of it when I was unwell myself, hope you're back up to speed soon, in the meantime tune in here, you're most welcome.

the next hole for attention, a little bit more complex in shape and curve.
hole two.png
 
lead loading is a real skill that's been lost with the advent of really excellent, modern plastic fillers like the type I use, easy-sand. The body shops use it as it's fast, effective and cost efficient and healthier than smelting lead. I use it because like you I find most of the lead on the floor rather than on the body. Easy sand can be, well, sanded.
I used to work with an old boy and he tried to teach me. To my shame I cannot remember his real name but we used to call him Fossil.
He had seen it all after decades in the game. He was that old that they hadn't invented masking tape when he started. They used to strip everything down that didn't need paint or use Vaseline painted on and washed off afterwards.

ETA, It just came to me his name was Bert. Lovely bloke must be long gone now RIP.
 
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