from Old English White to green moss and rust

Joshua Slocum

LE
Book Reviewer
retain as much of the original car as possible, quite agree, and it's almost a mathematical calculation that the cost of spares is directly proportional to the numbers of the car type still on the road. This was why I had it so easy with my Morris Minor Pickup, apart from the pickup panels, the rest was dirt cheap as there are so many still out on the roads, saloons, softops, travellers. There quite a lot of the vans still motoring about, with modern company names painted on the sides to look old fashioned, dependable, honest service. Who wouldn't trust a plumber with a old Morris van? If he cheated you, you could catch him up on your bike. By the sounds of it, you've got quite an interesting project on your hands.
having owned it so long it has lots of memories
it does not own me anything and it still has its origional reg
sales reciept
warranty
both keys
and a crooklock !!
30-12-2014 16;28;1933.JPG
 

Truxx

LE
the Latter, learnt everything from Mr Haynes and.....this guy is rather good.
Haynes manual:

Take the four self tapping screws from the front trim panel and store them carefully in a matchbox.

Remove the engine and gearbox.

Replacement is the opposite of removal.


A text shared with me by a bloke who is married to my cousin who worked for Haynes as a technical author....

Funnily enough for those with older motors I strongly advise getting a et of the 4 volumes of a thing called "Newnes Motor Repair". Although it goes up to the early 60s it does in fact provide useful insight into later stuff.


 

anglo

LE
yes another pile of junk !!
Morris Oxford series V
not many left now, my brother in law did about 30 in banger racing
and they get stolen as well, and turn up on the big oval
mines under CCTV and alarms
owned it for 30 years, bought of the first owner in great Baddow in Essex
View attachment 461875
I had the estate version, A friend of mine welded new outriggers on to the beast
lovely car, due to posting I got rid of it, In later years I went to look at one on the isle of wight,
it was too far gone to save,
 
fitting the New front lower cross panel brought the following fears to the fore.

1, have I welding in the heater channels in right?
2, what if I tap the panel in and it jams half in and half out?
3, what If I've made a blunder and my measurements are all wrong and it won't go in?

seriously doubting myself, until I got a big hammer and a small piece of timber, a few taps later and in it popped into place. Strange feeling of exhilaration, get a grip lad! the car narrows toward the front, so a double skin bulkhead is always going to give you hassle before if fits, had to bend it out a bit so I could get it passed the inner wing, but it;ll bend back, with a bit of persuasion.
pushed into position, new panel from near side.png

the heater channel end flanges needed to be re profiled so these curved closing pieces can move in tight . I'm rather chuffed, time for a cup of tea.
pushed into position the new panel positive location.png
 
a good example of why detailed photography is important in a car restoration, or any restoration come to think of it. The new bulkhead popped in with the leading surface at a slight angle. I wasn't sure if this was right. was it like that before with the original?
front end gv b new panel.png

checking through my files of pictures I found this one that shows the same angle of the original panel, it is at an angle with the bottom edge not protruding further than the bottom edge of the inner wheel arch.
front end gv b.png
 
with a skim of easy sand in the front to blend all the different parts all together,
from inside with a scim.png

the lower cross panel welded in, time to move on to the front of the nose.
welded in and a scim.png
 
the rusted out front valance is next to be cut off, saving the latch, and the rubber sleeves that take the front bumper support bars.
rusty valance on.png


cut that off, next the floor of the spare wheel well
cut off rusty valance.png
 
that cut off easily as there was little of it holding on.
rudty edge of well floor.png

wire wheel in an angle grinder shows that there is strong steel on the tip edge where the new floor will weld on, but it'll need some extra work to get it level.
cut off well floor.png
 
this is the old and new well floor comparison.
comparison old and new well floor.png

this swing inspection hatch cover needs saving
round piece.png

keep these parts in a cardboard box along with anything else I can save
panzer box for small bits.png
 
clamping the new over the old, just to see how much of the original has rusted away, quite a bit as it goes.
clamped up showing missing metal.png

the wing inner cut away...
cut off piece showing support behind.png

the metal spot welded to the support behind the wing needs to be removed.
quick test fit over the old inner wing, looking good, but I'll get a better fit when I take out all the old material.
wing not trial fit.png
 
chisel off the old skin from the support bracket.
chiselling off the old skin.png

this time the wing fits snug against the support bracket and the cut edge. ready to be tac welded in.
clamped up ready for tac welding.png

tac welded in now. Viewed from the front.
tac welded inner wing front tip.png

this miss- alignment of the top curve will be easy to rectify when the panel has been seam welded in.
disparity of top edge angle.png
 
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the old cut off inner wing has some thick steel, usable for small curved patches, so I'll keep hold of it, the horns? probably play Dixie, so I'm binning those, I'll get an original 1972 beetle horn, like it originally sounded when it came out of the factory.
play dixie.png
 

Truxx

LE
here's a picture Mrs Sprocket took of me seam welding the repair panel in, using the floor panel to protect my coverall leg from weld spatter, so far I'm very pleased with my progress, slow but there's no hurry.
welding in the workshop.png
 
so now the inner wing is seam welded in, the top curve could be gently bent to match the two parts together and weld them.
top edge matched up.png


turning my attention to the inner wing on the other side, the left side, clamped the new over the old using the hole to match them up. the foot is the only bit rusted out here
clamped showing rusted out foot.png
 
the left side inner wing is in far better condition this side, the foot is the only rusted out bit,I'm making my mind up to cut the foot off and just weld that on. this image shows the right foot.
new left side foot.png
 
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