from Old English White to green moss and rust

tapped the hinge threads in to accept screws where there was previously stud rivits.
tapping the hinge holes a.png


the hinge itself fouls the tap handle as it rotates, so simple fix, use a spanner on the shaft of the tap
tapping the hinge holes b.png


finally, screws in and three strong points of attachment
hinge screws in.png
 
hazzar Boys! I'm chuffed, big move in the right direction, after a slight Nause, I trial fitting the door and realised the bottom hinge gap on the repair panel is out by 15mm, so some gnashing of teeth and a 15mm cut to the panel to move the hinge up, and one it went.
pax back door in position in the frame.png

what does this mean, well it means the doors can come back off as I now know they are in the right locations, I can finish welding up the A posts and start on the rusted out back of the body.
pax door back in, the interior.png
 
need to order some repair panels tommorrow for the rusted out area at the back.
bottom qp inside.jpg

make a choice from these that are available.
rear panels schematic.jpg
 
so this morning a tidy up of the workshop after tac welding on the piece I cut off the door above the hinge to move it up 15mm.
door cut below hinge tac welded on.png

doors off the car and placed up out of the way in the corner on top of the bench.
doors up and out of the way.png
 
went to the VW Heritage centre at Shoreham to pick up some more re3pair panels, and their couter is shut, due to Corona virus. so the only way to get them is along with everyone else restoring a Beetle, mail order, the pain of that is you have to be home to receive the pacage. Damn you Corvid 19 you're effecting everything, even my Bug resto. But the silver lining to this trip, and there's always a silver lining if you look for one, I fixed my Morris Minor Pickup
exhaust bracket.
exhaust bracket ratte.png

ordered a Ford Transit exhaust bracket, what a perfect part, with the rubber hanger, it simply bolted onto a bolt that holds the floor panel in place, ready with the welder but it wasn't needed, chuffed, no rattle.
exhaust bracket ratte fixedpng.png
 
theres such a small price difference between the rear cross member, £48.95
rear cross member.jpg


and the heater channel closing panel, that is part of the one above at £45.95, may as well go for the former.
rear heater closing panel.jpg

this is the area it will repair.
rusted out jagged holes left side.png
 

Oyibo

LE
Certainly a 'Trigger's broom' project, but nice to see it coming along.
 
despite the apocalyptic feel out and about, my rear body cross members arrived by mail today, chuffed. and holding them up against the area rusted out, they cover the area missing.
new panel right side covers hole.png
 
the flat area is the end plate to the heater channel, you can see where the heat pipe comes through from the engine compartment into the cabin.
NEW panel left side of car covering the rust hole.png
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
using the butt weld clamps, not too much deviation at the front
View attachment 453828
there's more deviation at the back, maybe a little more stretching might get me to an acceptable place
View attachment 453829

you never get a perfect fit right-away with repair panels, a nudge here and a tap there, eventually get you to where you need to be. I may cut off that central brace piece, just looks odd.
View attachment 453830
Double check it isn't a bracer or similar for the door card mate.
 
Double check it isn't a bracer or similar for the door card mate.
it's to cover earlier marks, they have that part going up, it's obsolete on a 72, but by keeping it in, the same pressing can find more use and more customers so makes it cost effective.
 
checking underneath first to see how this fits together, not looked under here before, I'll be getting the wire wheel under here for a clean up and some hammerite black paint. you can see the join line.
underneath the rear panel.png

cutting away the old to fit the new.
well lite ragged hole with klokkerholm held up.png
 
holding the Klokkerholm panel up where it will close off the open end of the heater channel, i can see how this is going to work. The stepping appears to fit well.
stepping of heater closing panel.png

the panel has an extra inch of metal on the end, I'll leave that on the first one in and cut it back later.
extra inch of metal on the klockerholm panel.png

examining the removed pipe from the engne compartment, it's plastic, and held on with rusted bolts.
plastic pipe bolts.png

they sheared off, but they're metric, so easily replaced.
plastic pipe unbolted.png
 
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so a sunny Saturday Morning spent in the workshop, welding in the new repair panel. first of all I decided to fit this the same as the original no matter where it fails to touch the heater channel. Wedged it into position using a axle stand and timber blocks and a wedge
wedged into position b.png

gaps that will need small pieces cut and tac welded in.
expansion piece tac welded.png
 
the edge where it meets the back floor panel needed seam welding in when it was clamped in.
rear cross member clamped in place.png

welded in nice and strong
welded in a.png
 

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