from Old English White to green moss and rust

The TC was originally set up to run on 5* 100 octane, which is no longer available unless you have a supply of AVGAS (100 octane low lead).

Lead replacement additive is available but there are different varieties and should not be mixed.

Would be worth it to get an unleaded head fitted.
 
Old cloth covered wiring loom that had male/female bullet connectors. They get furred up so undo them one by one and clean up with a bit of emery cloth. One at a time or you may lose track of what goes where,
Same with the fuse box, old school glass fuses easily broken. Clean them and the contacts
up with a quick rub of emery cloth.
 

Helm

MIA
Moderator
Book Reviewer
If it's doable I would suggest turning the oil pump over with a drill or similar, once you've drained and replaced the oil, get the engine pre oiled before you turn it over, even by hand
 
so ahem, back to the Beetle, the A post repair panel cut and fitted ready to tac in.
cut to fit.png


tac welded in, well, a biyt more than that, not too much that I can' cut it out and adjust it when I trial fit the door, I've blown a few small holes, they will have to be welded back up.
a post tac welded in.png
 
what does this mean? well it means I can't go any further without the passenger door, here it is, and it's in a real state, almost a mini project on it's own.
left door before.png


so let's take a look at what I have to fix on it, both hinges are frozen, I have two new ones to go on here, the bottom needs cutting off and I have the two panels to go on there too.
door up ended.png


first off, the new repair panel encompasses the bottom hinge mount area, so that's taken care of... draw a line and cut that mess off.
new panel passes bottom hinge area.png
 
so the car body on it's dolly wheels, can be moved to the other side of the workshop, making space to work around the bench with the door on it. Fun this innit.
move over so the worst door can be worked on.png
 

Joshua Slocum

LE
Book Reviewer
Apologies for hijacking this fantastic thread, but since we're on the subject of old English metal.......

The wife’s uncle had a few nice motors including a beautiful MGA in creamy white with red leather.

He died a few years back and the car collection was split up among his grandchildren. The MG staying in storage for his youngest grandson.

This lad is 15 now and has started to show an interest. His old man is off the scene and to be honest he lacks a male role model in his life.

He’s asked me if I’ll help him get this thing back on the road and look after it for him until he can drive it. It’d be my absolute pleasure to be honest. He’s a lovely lad and I had a huge amount of respect for his grandfather, the last owner of the car.

The car is a family heirloom and needs to be used and cherished again.

I’m off to dig it out of the garage this weekend. last time I saw it was a good 5 years ago. It was running then, but needed a load of little jobs doing, like a new roof and some minor electrical issues sorting.

I’ll take a fresh can of petrol and some jump leads, but hoping it shouldn’t need too much to get it going.

Anyone know these cars? Known faults to look for etc? I’ve never touched an MG in my life.

View attachment 453515
Hydraulic brakes, will most likely be seized or leaking
clutch might be rusted to the flywheel
take all of the spark plugs out and turn it over on the starting handle to get the oil moving
then spin it on the starter with the plugs out and check the gunge flies up
check the tyres for cracks and damage
and the wiring for rodent damage
disconnect the battery when you leave to prevent a fire
and flush the fuel tank out, and remove and clean the float bowls on the carbs
and have a fire extinguisher handy
check the clutch pertaining mechanism as well
 
cutting off the bottom edge of the door, the rusted hinge just fell to the floor with a bump, didn't even try to hang on and give me grief.
cut off hinge.png


the only thing keeping that bottom edge on is the bottom bar mount
cuts to door bottom inner.png

held by one 10mm bolt in a captured nut
bottom bar mount.png
 
the mount is secured by spot welds to the bottom edge of the door, that doesn't come with the repair so I'll cut it off, save and repair it.
bottom bar mount spot welded on.png

there seems to be a problem here, the profile of the inner repair panel doesn't match.
door bottom mismatch rear left.png

the same on the other end
door bottom mismatch front right.png

and what's this, why didn't I notce this before, there is a central support bar, but not on the original door.
door bottom miss match bottom centre.png

there's not one on this cut off bottom edge, need to do some research.
original cut off bottom edge.png
 
using the butt weld clamps, not too much deviation at the front
butt weld clamps in use forward.png

there's more deviation at the back, maybe a little more stretching might get me to an acceptable place
butt weld clamps in use rear ward.png


you never get a perfect fit right-away with repair panels, a nudge here and a tap there, eventually get you to where you need to be. I may cut off that central brace piece, just looks odd.
butt weld clamps in use.png
 
made a start welding on the inner repair panel
bottom inner start weld.png

and the front, they fit ok, but the welds need more work.
bottom inner front start weld.png


the bracket at the bottom cleamed up, bottom part of it rusted away and so was cut off.
bottom bracket cleaned up.png
 
nasty looking bubble under the paint on the outer door skin
bubble up under the painton outer door skin.png


flap disc made short work of it, lurking under there car cancer, I'll have to take the whole panel back to bare steel to treat it,
bubble flap disced off what lies benieth.png
 
Cut off the bottom edge of the door, not much good metal left, the top edge is nearly three MM thick, if they had rust treated cars as they do today, this would have lasted several lifetimes.
cut off bottom edge.png


the new repair offered up for fit
bottom outer repair panel.png


30mm by 30cm long, to be cut out of the trailing edge
rusted out trailing edge outer.png
 
while tac welding the the bottom panel on, there was lots of flame and black deposite, this piece of material has to come out Doh.
burning smell and black deposit.png


clamping the bottom edge to weld it, in couldn't be simpler.
clamping the botom edge.png


from the front...
clamping the botom edge. exttpng.png
 
finally, after a long time drilling out the rivits that hold the hinge in, they knocked through with a punch freeing the hinge.
top hinge is out.png

from inside the hinge panel has almost stayed clear of rust, but the door panels have some rust treatment coming on an old toothbrush.
inside the door.png

the new hinge is a perfect fit, only it's diffy one screw hole.
top hinge new hinge one hole less.png
 

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