flashing a stove pipe down

TheIronDuke

ADC
Book Reviewer
#1
Wassname The Bird has just bought a wood burner without consulting me. It is a lovely French art nouveau job from the 1930's. With a 3.5" flu outlet. Modern flu pipe starts at 4". Any idea how to fash a 3.5" pipe into a 4" pipe without poisoning everybody with carbon monoxide or murdering The Bird for buying fFrench antiques? Lead will not work because it will melt and asbestos tends to kill people.

Any sensible advice welcome.
 

TheIronDuke

ADC
Book Reviewer
#3
Would a few beads of fire clay help?
Dunno. Can they summon the dead or tell me what is going to win the 3.45 at Kempton Park? I know what fire clay is but I need a rock solid joint between the flue on the wood burner and the flu going through the wall. So fire clay is maybe not the solution? But cheers for the suggestion.
 
B

bokkatankie

Guest
#6
Combination of fire clay, then wrap flue in bitument lined flashing tape (it will melt but it will also seap into fire clay thus rendering fire and perhaps more importantly waterproof seal) with full application of joiner fluid worked for me. Botch job but has worked on full use wood burner for last 2 years, no water in and no fire out. But rather depends which bits one it trying to seal!
 
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bokkatankie

Guest
#10
Gun Gum bandage and putty, about £7-8 the pair at Halfords


I tried Gun Gum, burned away in no time, dried out and left non-waterproof seal, then went to fire clay and bitumen flashing tape, 2 years in working well!
 

TheIronDuke

ADC
Book Reviewer
#11
Combination of fire clay, then wrap flue in bitument lined flashing tape (it will melt but it will also seap into fire clay thus rendering fire and perhaps more importantly waterproof seal) with full application of joiner fluid worked for me. Botch job but has worked on full use wood burner for last 2 years, no water in and no fire out. But rather depends which bits one it trying to seal!
Sounds like a plan. The 3.5" pipe comes out of the back of the stove so the joint needs to look half way decent. Then it will go into a 4" pipe up the wall and outdoors at the top. I can angle the outlet so water should not be a problem.

Gun Gum is the result of Satan shagging Halfords. It is crap.
 
B

bokkatankie

Guest
#12
Sounds like a plan. The 3.5" pipe comes out of the back of the stove so the joint needs to look half way decent. Then it will go into a 4" pipe up the wall and outdoors at the top. I can angle the outlet so water should not be a problem.

Gun Gum is the result of Satan shagging Halfords. It is crap.
Good luck, if I can be arrsed I will take a photo tomorrow of how mine looks!
 
#13
As much as it pains me to be sensible, I'd really advise calling a proper HETAS approved stove installer in. For the sake of saving a few shillings it's really not worth you and your family ending up like pit canaries.

Good luck!
 
#16
Don't use tub fire cement.

Glass fibre rope tapped in well then you can get black fire cement in a tube, make a nice neat joint with a wet finger.

3.5 ins sounds small for a flue...... is it a very small stove?
 
B

Biscuits_AB

Guest
#19
Wassname The Bird has just bought a wood burner without consulting me. It is a lovely French art nouveau job from the 1930's. With a 3.5" flu outlet. Modern flu pipe starts at 4". Any idea how to fash a 3.5" pipe into a 4" pipe without poisoning everybody with carbon monoxide or murdering The Bird for buying fFrench antiques? Lead will not work because it will melt and asbestos tends to kill people.

Any sensible advice welcome.
Just stick to your one bar portable electric heater that your granny left you. It'll keep you warm enough if you huddle close to it. Your granny had the corned-beef legs to prove it. Mind you, that could have been the advanced stages of decomposition. She'd been sat there for a week before anyone noticed that she had 'karked' it.
 

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