Fitting a multifuel stove in a flat

Discussion in 'Finance, Property, Law' started by brettarider, Sep 21, 2009.

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  1. brettarider

    brettarider On ROPs

    If I was to fit a multifuel/wood burning stove into a flat which still has a chimney would I need to have a flue fitted right up to the top of the stack or would I just need to take the flue into the chimney breast as long as it was tested and found to be Ok?

    Flat is in the middle of the tenement with another above me I'm just weighing up my options at the minute between one of these or a gas fire
     
  2. I am not an expert in this area but have some experience (the Fire Brigade was really quite sweet, as it happens...).

    All the way up.

    At the very least, you need to undertake a video inspection of the state of the chimney.

    Multi-fuel burners run bloody hot - much hotter than the open fire for which the chimney was designed. Be careful!

    Litotes
     
  3. Do you have a stove yet or still to purchase one.

    There is a dealer in Hamilton who has a great selection of models.
     
  4. Being Septic I have no idea of the building/fire codes there. I would urge you however to invest in a battery Carbon Monoxide (CO) detector whether required or not. Here in the states they run about $25. The first few years they made them they were a bit dodgy but the newer ones are reliable and could save your life/your families life.
     
  5. brettarider

    brettarider On ROPs

    Havent bought one yet I'm trying to work out if my budget will allow for one as I'll bet the installer will claim for scaffolding to drop the flue down the breast. I'd love one I know were there is plenty of easily obtainable wood so in the long run cost me almost next to nothing to heat the flat 8)

    Cheers for the advice Dave realiase I'll need a smoke detector as well

    TS, Who's the dealer in Hamilton? seen a few on ebay and machine mart
     
  6. Hold on here, we are getting muddled!

    1. You should have a smoke detector in your flat anyway. There are plenty of points of ignition even before you fit a woodburner!

    2. If you have a woodburner (aka multifuel burner), you will know that you have one; the heat is tremendous. You will also have a chimney; a proper chimney. As long as the chimney has been cleared for use with the woodburner (see my earlier post), there is, IMHO, no need for the CO detector (it is carbon monoxide (CO) which is a heavy, odourless gas that kills slowly by asphyxiation which is the real killer). If a problem develops with the chimney, you will experience smoke as you have never experienced it! A CO detector is for those people with gas boilers in strange places like airing cupboards and the like, where a failure of a seal can lead to CO leaking into your living space - primarily because there isn't a proper chimney with good ventilation!

    3. CO is a killer, make no mistake, but I would be very surprised if a correctly installed woodburner was implicated in such a death!

    Litotes
     
  7. Afterthought:

    As I pressed "Send", I remembered that the Telegraph covered a similar topic over the weekend. The question was about tar seeping through the walls of upstairs bedrooms.

    A woodburner is a more efficient burner than an open fire where most of the heat goes up the chimney. Old style fires are cooler lower down and hotter further up. Woodburners are hotter lower down and cooler further up. The fact that they are cooler further up leads to the deposition of tars that seep through brickwork and appear on internal walls.

    Two things can prevent this; vitreous chimney pipes (which I now have) and stainless steel liners. The problem with the steel liners is that, eventually, they burn out.

    You should, in any case, always burn seasoned wood to reduce the tar!

    Litotes
     
  8. Hi,
    If you can fit one it will be a slick move to say the least!!
    I fitted a small logburner around 18 months ago and my gas bills are now tiny in comparison to what they were 8)
    Have you looked here ..... http://www.hetas.co.uk/public/hetas_guide.html
    http://www.warriorstoves.co.uk/assets/Stove%20manual%20a4%20Gabriel.pdf <<<thats my stove

    If you want anymore info feel free to pm me as i work for a well known gov dept that is loathed by most and me somedays!! :lol: ( you know the one that starts with an H and ends with an E !!) but it does give me access to lots of info.

    As a basic rule i would advise fitting a flue liner made from 316 stainless steel, this is the best for a log burner as the flue gasses are really very hot.

    Another thing that HETAS recommend is to go up one size on the flue liner ie if the stove has a 5" outlet then install a 6" flu liner.

    Regards,


    RM

    Edit to add be careful of some the crap offered on fleabay , most are not made of virgin cast iron and crack like f**k oh and they don't have a bs mark.
    Summit to think about if you ever wanted to make claim on your home insurance!
     
  9. brettarider

    brettarider On ROPs

    Cheers for the info I was looking at one or two on fleabay might get one from Machine mart I'd expect they would be BS marked
     
  10. "I'll bet the installer will claim for scaffolding to drop the flue down ".

    I had the impression that it was only a ladder job, drop a line down and yank the liner up, then trap and cement in place. Should only be two ladders and a bucket of muck. The guy indoors can control the unfurling of the spiral as it goes up.

    Two men, but no scaffolding costs.
     
  11. double post, site or my uplink slow today
     
  12. It is my understanding that the Safety @ Height Act has stopped all commercial ladder work. All work on chimneys/roofs etc in my location is being done via scaffolding or with hydraulic platforms.

    Litotes
     
  13. I hope that you will read this before getting started. Sorry for the late post.

    I wonder if you have considered:

    1. Carrying tonnes of cut, split, seasoned wood up the stairs to
    your flat.

    2. Carrying large bucket loads of fine wood ash back down the stairs.

    3. Where will you store wood, outside the building and inside your flat?

    4. If you will be using a chain saw, do you have somewhere to store kit and fuel securely.

    5. Have you sounded out the neighbours regarding your idea?

    I've lived with both woodburners and gas for years and I have to recommend the latter because it's clean, easy and available on demand. If you want a little ambience get an open hearth with pummice stones that looks like a coal fire.
     
  14. Some excellent points there and I totally agree. Heating with wood is labour intensive and very messy. Here Frogside, our central heating is provided by a wood burning boiler. In a winter it consumes approx 10m3 of wood and has to be cleaned out once a week. The chimney is swept once a month as it is an old boiler (I seem to be attracted to old boilers) and unlike the latest versions, there is still the risk of a chimney fire.

    To supplement the central heating we have an insert which also consumes wood like it's going out of fashion and is great for heating the ceiling. It's an economy model so presumably the more expensive models actually heat where you sit.

    To further supplement this we are getting an enamelled Godin drainpipe multi-fuel burning stove and this will also be eating into our wood reserves. Wood is readily available here but even if you get it ready cut to size, they (unfortunately) haven't yet invented the self-stacking log and those are the days I really don't look forward to.

    Ash can also be a problem as while some can be composted and some can be thrown on the roses, it can't just be chucked in the bin (or shouldn't be). So unless you intend filling your trousers with ash and distributing it like in an old German POW film, then you're going to be stuck with a load of ash.

    As Bakerlite says, get a gas fire.