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FFS, Land Rover 127 clutch problems

Morning gents. My beast has packed in, again, I just can't wade through the google pages to find any relevant information I understand so I turn to the real lump hammer and black maskers experts.

Last week jumped in van, clutch pedal was on the floor. Got it recovered to Land Rover garage, 140 quid later it was returned in working order and ran ok for a week.

Same problem this morning. Pedal flat to the floor.

Background info. It's an 1989 V8 55k on clock

When idling out of gear and clutch not depressed it's visibly noisy in the cab (I thought is was the drive shaft) this goes away when the clutch is depressed.

Has the garage just short cutted me, filled it up with fluid tightened some bolts and waved me off or is just standard progress and a lot of stuff on it needs replacing

What needs really fixing/replacing and how much is it gonna cost
 
First obvious thing, have a look in the Clutch Hydraulic Reservoir, if there's nowt in it you probably have a leak somewhere. If there is fluid in it then I would guess either the Master Cylinder or Slave Cylinder piston is buggered(non technical term).
 
I would go for the slave cylinder try swapping out with a second hand / referb one, i had very similar issues with my brake system, the SC was the culprit. hope you get it sorted and post back.
 
WTF did they do for £140?

Refill with fluid without addressing the actual issue perhaps? As if.

Any signs of fluid leaking? (BTW, it's an excellent paint stripper...)
 
Sounds like a cylinders leaking.

I have one for a V8 (the one on the gearbox - Master I think - but I do confuse which is which)

Its identical to the 300tdi unit except the threads for the fluid pipe are different.

Bit of an oops moment

Mine was a case of clutch pedal wouldn't come up - lift with foot works ok fine for a while then repeat
Park Landover with not to be used until issue addressed notice.
Realise wives citroen* is on form again - use Landrover as Citroen US.

Middle of bloody no where late oclock - Pedal works - but clutch not disengaging
Pump pedal
Pedal suddenly moves freely with absolutely no resistance ( yes I know that's the moment the seals on the master cylinder fucked off).
Fortunately Citroen was ready

Changed cylinder but clutch still wont disengage - you can hear / see it all working - with bleed valve open - soon as you close bleed valve pedal rock solid.

One for the garage - havent the facilities to lift engine and I cannot be arsed to strip the interior to get the gearbox out.

Still on the to do list as the only Garage willing to do it - came for it as arranged in January - whereupon I asked if he would take the wives Citroen* instead as it now had gearbox issues

*When I got to France sister in law was looking at a Rover 75 - Dont do it said I - crap, unreliable and no longer supported
Cue how can you say that - its a British car - patriotic etc
No longer made theres a reason for that - Citroen would be the same except cheap prices and French product loyalty kept them afloat .
Anyway Rover 75 Bought - Rover 75 develops problem - Listen to symptoms - Dont drive it - head gaskets going Gone - anyway we drove it - so that proper fucked it.
So when I said to the wife Dont buy Citroen - crap unreliable etc - she immediately bought a Citroen - now wishes to get rid of it** because its crap and unreliable

**So badly she wants to fix the 27 yr old 205s head gasket and use that instead
 
Morning gents. My beast has packed in, again, I just can't wade through the google pages to find any relevant information I understand so I turn to the real lump hammer and black maskers experts.

Last week jumped in van, clutch pedal was on the floor. Got it recovered to Land Rover garage, 140 quid later it was returned in working order and ran ok for a week.

Same problem this morning. Pedal flat to the floor.

Background info. It's an 1989 V8 55k on clock

When idling out of gear and clutch not depressed it's visibly noisy in the cab (I thought is was the drive shaft) this goes away when the clutch is depressed.

Has the garage just short cutted me, filled it up with fluid tightened some bolts and waved me off or is just standard progress and a lot of stuff on it needs replacing

What needs really fixing/replacing and how much is it gonna cost
You might be better off re posting in thread below, lots of ARRSERs watching the thread with knowledge LRs .
https://www.arrse.co.uk/community/threads/land-rover-horror-stories.226464/
 
The rattle that vanishes when clutch is depressed is most likely worn clutch release bearing or input shaft bearing.
The lack of pedal, as others have said is seals in master cylinder/slave cylinder. Easy enough to rebuild but a twat to bleed as I recall
 
The other oddball fault that some LRs are prone to is the failure of the pivot bearings on the clutch arm. This can give some interesting symptoms depending on whether one or both bearings fail.

A rattle from the box will mean one of two things:

1. Thrust bearing worn to excess (roller bearing)
2. Tinkling noise usually menas that the clutch spring fingers are broken and rattling round in the housing

As it's a basic hydraulic clutch it's either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder. DO NOT JUST REPLACE THE SEALS this is false economy and you'll end up buying a new cylinder anyway. If the seals are leaking, the chances are that the cylinder and / or piston are worn.

The Rover 75 is a perfectly good machine and could have been fixed for pocket money (maybe still can be if the head hasn't warped). The usual failure is a small rubber seal on the inlet manifold allowing the coolant to leak. Uprated gaskets are available and the job can be DIY for the competent.
 
Simple stuff it's a hydraulic system with just two things on it, master cylinder, on top of your clutch pedal, and slave cylinder at the clutch end, then needs bleeding.
It happens, I've had Bedford TKs and Dodge/Renault 50s do it to me too, great fun when you're miles from home! Ask me how I know, go on.
And if the noise is a rattling then it's clutch release bearing most likely, harmless but irritating, not worth the huge expense of having the engine and/or tranny out over a little noise.
Anyhoo. My advice is that to make sure you get properly made parts fitted as the "Made in China out of Cheese" syndrome is the strong in the Land-Rover replacement parts game. (As I know to my cost, literally. That said, don't trust the stealership very far unless you want to help pay for all those marble floors and leather sofas.*)
Also to get the whole replacement parts rather than a refurb' kit of new rubbers, as the bores are likely to be worn and scored so it'll just fail again, probably both master and slave at the same time so things are "balanced" as it were.

*£94 for 8 propshaft nuts and bolts!!! And the cheeky cnut didn't even see why I was surprised!!! Didn't even have the f*ckers in stock FFS. Rogers of Bedford did them for £15 and they had the good sense to keep a bin of them in stock.
 
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I think even Bearmach can supply made in China stuff, best research on a part by part basis rather than trusting to brand names which can so easily be slapped on anything. And frequently are.
 
Have you considered buying a vehicle that works?

Previously I had an RS6 which worked but had the Damocles sword of a 10k plus bill if anything went wrong:mrgreen: and cost a gazillion quid to maintain annually

At least the Land Rover is a simple mechano type beast and not too expensive to fix (touch wood)
 
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