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Builds F-16CJ 1/32 Viper

PFGEN

GCM
Apologies if this is incredibly obvious, or teaching you to suck eggs... and I only say this because it looks like it's the underside of the decal that is reflecting...

...but did you put a gloss varnish under where the decal was going, so that it's a perfect contact underneath, then apply the decal, and then put the matt varnish on top?

I think you nailed it right there. Bugger, should have thought about that. Exactly that, gloss underneath, the decal, followed by lashings of decal fix and then an overall matt varnish for a finish. New approach, sod the gloss and go for a matt varnish top and bottom and use the decal fix to get good adhesion.

I now feel like stripping some of them and starting again. Not really in the mood for that as it will take a fair bit of work, don't see many alternatives. I can try smearing them with a film or something or other but it won't change the physics of the layer underneath. Maybe try some experiments first, it can't get any worse.
 
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PFGEN

GCM
Apologies if this is incredibly obvious, or teaching you to suck eggs... and I only say this because it looks like it's the underside of the decal that is reflecting...

...but did you put a gloss varnish under where the decal was going, so that it's a perfect contact underneath, then apply the decal, and then put the matt varnish on top?

Decal stripped and indeed a large shiny arrse patch of gloss underneath. Bit of work to flatten it, now I need to make some new decals to finish the repair. I'm glad I found this out now. and not when working on the likes of the tail.
 

PFGEN

GCM
The decal saga continues.... After the last shiny arrse examples I stripped them back and went for a matt finish prior to applying the decals. I know its supposed to be gloss but hey I needed to try something. Still shiny. Managed to scrounge some original Tamiya decals but they were worse. Then followed with some more aftermarket and then my own variation. I've now lost count of how many I've been through. All decals put on with lashings of MicroSol and MicroSet solutions. Eventually went for one solution and finished it with a matt coating to cover that. Still not happy and wonder just how bad the large vertical fin decals are going to be.

IMG_035924.jpeg


For the frame that I'm building the ECM pod, the AN/ALQ should be the 131 deep dish version rather than the 184. I bought an aftermarket version which is a bit of a bad joke. I haven't found anybody who supplies the short pylon for it. I also suspect the dimensions of the aftermarket ECM pod as the positions for the sway arms look like they are in the wrong place. Looks like I'll just have to load up the long pod.
 
The amount of time, effort and geld that gets lavished on these glorified 'toys' - just so the cat/missus/pissed-up mate can trash the bloody end product? NEVER again.
 

Daz

LE
The amount of time, effort and geld that gets lavished on these glorified 'toys' - just so the cat/missus/pissed-up mate can trash the bloody end product? NEVER again.
I can do that without the listed help .................and that's just during the build :)
 

Daz

LE
The decal saga continues.... After the last shiny arrse examples I stripped them back and went for a matt finish prior to applying the decals. I know its supposed to be gloss but hey I needed to try something. Still shiny. Managed to scrounge some original Tamiya decals but they were worse. Then followed with some more aftermarket and then my own variation. I've now lost count of how many I've been through. All decals put on with lashings of MicroSol and MicroSet solutions. Eventually went for one solution and finished it with a matt coating to cover that. Still not happy and wonder just how bad the large vertical fin decals are going to be.

View attachment 489521

For the frame that I'm building the ECM pod, the AN/ALQ should be the 131 deep dish version rather than the 184. I bought an aftermarket version which is a bit of a bad joke. I haven't found anybody who supplies the short pylon for it. I also suspect the dimensions of the aftermarket ECM pod as the positions for the sway arms look like they are in the wrong place. Looks like I'll just have to load up the long pod.
Could one of the long pod pylons be modded?
 
Finally finished the missile load and 370 gallon tanks. After trying an enamel panel liner and oils I went back to a simple wash and an available digit to rub it in. I'm happy with the results.

View attachment 481782


View attachment 481783

What I'm not so happy about is the reflection from the decal paper. I've tried a few different types and this was the best of the rest. Even after matt varnish it's still visible. Any suggestions?

could be the decal solution. I’ve just switched to Mig decal fix and it’s deffo better
 
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PFGEN

GCM
Could one of the long pod pylons be modded?

I had a go at that but its tricky finding a photo to compare. The deep pan ECM pod is also carried by the A-10 but on an underwing pylon so that wasn't much use. Of all the pictures I have from servicing in the hanger I have no pictures of the centreline, #5 pylon. I had a stab at it using some schematics that I had but once I'd put some shape in it just didn't look right.
 
Finally finished the missile load and 370 gallon tanks. After trying an enamel panel liner and oils I went back to a simple wash and an available digit to rub it in. I'm happy with the results.

View attachment 481782

View attachment 481783

What I'm not so happy about is the reflection from the decal paper. I've tried a few different types and this was the best of the rest. Even after matt varnish it's still visible. Any suggestions?

I've just had a good look at these. You are right - its really shiny. Did you try the Mig stuff yet?
 
The amount of time, effort and geld that gets lavished on these glorified 'toys' - just so the cat/missus/pissed-up mate can trash the bloody end product? NEVER again.
encapsulate the model at risk in glass, that way said pissed up twit who wrecks it will never forget the model that you made that took seconds to destroy, and the hours waiting in Casualty with the bandaged wrist with free sample of glass. Models that will never be forgotten.
 

PFGEN

GCM
Cleaned the cobwebs off the bench and started work on the main wheel bay. Screwed up the main undercarriage legs. Need to clean off the white and get rid of the left overs from the casting process. Only realised it was so bad after spraying.

IMG_5001.jpeg
 

PFGEN

GCM
Started work on the lower fuselage as I need to get the paint on it before attaching the various parts of the undercarriage and engine air duct. UHF antenna in place, cooling ducts for the engine bay and the no-where duct fitted. I've completed some of the internal; engine bay structure as I need the rigidity for the added resin parts. Ventral fins next, thanks Tamiya, the fit is complete cack.

IMG_5156.jpeg


the piece of plastic half way along the inside should be flush with the bottom and although there's a gap between the fins, front and rear there shouldn't be a gap along the fuselage. Fit and filler for that lot but it will need some care to get the right look. There are also some holes there that should not be fist deep, they need to be reduced in depth.
 
Cleaned the cobwebs off the bench and started work on the main wheel bay. Screwed up the main undercarriage legs. Need to clean off the white and get rid of the left overs from the casting process. Only realised it was so bad after spraying.

View attachment 513506
That looks pretty accurate to me. Touch in the non-white bits with yellow primer for that truly authentic squadron line swine gash job look. Oh... it's not a Tonka is it?
 

PFGEN

GCM
And while thinking through the undercarriage fit this happened!

IMG_5158.jpeg


Fcuk !! I'd been careful while removing the flash and exhaust marks, obviously not careful enough. The only way I can think of solving this is trying to drill out the centres and trying to fit a pin. I doubt soldering is a good idea. Who at Tamiya thought that soft metal was a good idea, ye cheap skate fekkers!! Hannants has a replacement for a Hasegawa F16 which might work but needs quite a bit of work. Certainly cheaper than a new kit.
 

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