Dying for Everest - Eden channel

Discussion in 'Films, Music and All Things Artsy' started by fairy_nuff, Jan 28, 2009.

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  1. Watched Dying for Everest last night, program about a Kiwi guy with artificial legs climbing Everest with three mates. On the way up they came across a guy in a cave bearly breathing and not responding, so they say they sent a radio message to get him rescued and carried on up. On the way down he was still in the cave so sent another message, sherpas came up, tried to save him but he died. When they got back to NZ they were seen as heroes until story of the guy who died came out, then the media kicked off saying that they should have saved him.

    IMHO can't see that they could have rescued him as two of the Kiwis would be carrying him down Everest in the dark so can't see that they did anything wrong. Just wondered what others thought
  2. Been there done that

    Above 12000ft even with lots of acclimatisation any kind of load carrying is a real problem due to lack of oxegen, above the ice fall on the top of the Kumbu glacier it is out of the question your only going to kill your self ,for what to bring down a corpse. To my recolection there are about forty dead on the mountain. When you go that high with or without oxegen your are on your own

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  3. Well done you. How many bodies did you find? Think these4 found 6
  4. It's been a controversial topic in mountaineering for a long time, particularly regarding the season in 1997 (I think) when 8 people died in a series of storms and famously a Japanese team walked past a dying Indian climber. Joe Simpson and others (Matt Dickinson, The Death Zone) have written about it in some depth.

    It's a very difficult one as clearly if someone is in a near death state at that altitude there isn't going to be a lot that is possible to do for him/her as the vast majority wouldn't survive long enough to descend to anywhere where they could be helped. To do so could put members of the rescue part at heightened levels of risk as well.

    Having said that there have been notable episodes of heroism. During the 1997 storm an American mountaineer spent hours at night at 26000ft in a raging blizzard trying to guide others back to safety and undoubtedly saved some lives, though he later was criticised for some his actions.
  5. Interesting. The guy these 4 are accused of leaving couldn't move and was bearly breathing. Later in the program they showed a guy,who could move, being rescued by 15 sherpas.

    It's a tough call. What I thought strange was that the NZ media didn't critize the tour company which let the guy who died up there on his own in the first place
  6. There was a lot of criticism after the 1997 season that tour companies were fundamentally allowing anyone with the money to try for the summit and were losing people at an alarming rate. Rob Hall, an acclaimed mountaineer died in the 1997 storm with a client who he had been attempting to summit with.

    This changed thereafter but even then the youngest person to climb Everest at the time, a few years after, (22 year old Brit, name escapes me and I'm at work) went with an expedition company and died of exhaustion on the descent.

    From the above example it's debatable if there was anything at all that the 4 could actually have done for him, and depends very much on weather conditions, physical state of the team, condition of the casualty, weather etc etc. Not a decision I'd want to have to make or live with the consequences of, I know that.
  7. The_Duke

    The_Duke LE Moderator

    Not a bad article, even allowing for wiki.


    Boukreev was originally the villain of the piece according to one book, then the hero in another. His own book makes for very interesting reading, including the philosophy of high altitude climbers.
  8. You been up there? Impressed! Thinking of just a meagre trek to Base Camp as I'm no climber.
  9. even a trek to base camp is not for the weak hearted. My mates son did it last year and was in rag order for a good couple of days once there.
  10. It's about 120mls to the nearest road thats a three week treck, If you fly into Lukla it is still about a weks treck to base camp but Lukla is about 11000ft from ther to Namche Bazar is about two days as you should not go more than about 100ft a day, or better still every other day this will help with alltitude sickness. The firs time I went up there in 1977 and Iv'e been back up into the Kumbu three times since, mostly to Kunde and the Everest View Hotel at Kumjung

    Pasang Tserring's house in Kunde

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  11. I've just finished reading George Bands book 'Everest Exposed'. Top read and it turns out he lives about 5 miles away from me!
    On the subject of trekking to Base Camp, I've read quite a few tour itineries etc but I'm unsure when is the best time to do it. Ideally I'd like it that the snow is on the ground as opposed to the monsoon time but can't work out when that is? I am a weather fcukwit.
  12. Mr Happy

    Mr Happy LE Moderator

    thats surely gotta be summer time and India/Everest is N of the equator
  13. Mr Happy

    Mr Happy LE Moderator

    For my own personal expectations, its self or team mates and thats it. If the other team is completely out of it then I might reconsider but for me, help and support is something you do on the way down if safe to do so, not on the way up.

    Did you all hear about that Brit 16 y/o that climbed Everest a couple of years ago? He died on Mont Blanc recently.
  14. Mr Happy

    Mr Happy LE Moderator

    Tough mountain, 1:7 die.

    "Since Hillary and Tenzing's ascent, made while wearing ordinary woollens, around 1,200 climbers have conquered Everest. A further 175 have died trying."
  15. The_Duke

    The_Duke LE Moderator

    Agreed, tough mountain.

    However, 1 dies for every 7 who sucessfully summit. The figures for deaths to attempts are still bad, but nowhere near as bad as 1:7 makes it look.