Draper Tools PD-16 'Drilling Machine' 1981 Mascot Tools (Floor Standing Pillar Drill)

thejay

Swinger
Hello there, I have an old machine that I bought from someone else a while ago. One of the things it appears to be missing is a depth stop, which is extremely frustrating.

Because it is so old, I can't find a manual for it and when I contacted Draper, they said that they did not have one either.

Is there anyone out there who has experience of dealing with this machine? Is there a built in depth-stop that I am missing, like in the handle? If not, is there an easy way to modify it so that a depth stop can be introduced into the handle somehow?

I know that there are two main types of depth stop, once is external and relies on nuts being turned and the other is built into the handle (although I don't know how this works).

On the handle, you can see there is a plastic cap in the middle but it is as tight as it goes.

In the third image, there is a nut, attached to a bolt inside the machine which points to the centre of the spindle. I wonder if there was support to be an external depth stop on this machine and if it was attached using that nut.









 
look online at ebay listings ect....

then ask the seller for close pic of the bit your missing ;)
 

thejay

Swinger
Thanks so much for your replies. It's very strange that the manuals for the models you have posted links to both share a depth lock which does not appear on mine!

1551632334967.png


Where the thumb screw is shown is where there is a measure, which goes around the entire circumference. I removed the assembly and ran my finger over the inside where the hole would be tapped if it were already on the machine, just in case something was hidden below the measurements, but there was nothing.

I don't get it...
 
The black knurled part should lock the graduated collar. Slacken it then the collar ought to rotate backwards, re tighten to lock depth. The circular housing on the other side is the return spring, loosen the nut and twist the housing to inc/dec return pressure.
Edit: after you recover the parts that ping across the room and land in the pile of wood shavings. Or maybe that’s just me...
 
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thejay

Swinger
Thanks for your reply. That makes sense.

I have taken a couple of photos. The top one shows that there is a piece of metal connecting the outer ring and inner ring. The second shows a piece of metal which points outwards, which presumably should catch on the metal which connects the two rings.



When I put it back together, as I turned past a certain point it did feel like the whole assembly was kind of catching on something but not enough to stop it turning. Is it possible that the pointy bit of metal has been bent slightly, stopping it catching as expected?
 
The graduated ring should turn freely until locked by the knurled knob. Inside the graduated ring assembly, there should be a detent to stop against the lug on the drill body. Quite likely either have been bent or graunched in the past and the 2 parts no longer engage correctly. There could also be something stopping the graduated ring butting up against the drill body correctly, possibly a spacer missing from the other side not pulling the spindle through far enough.
 

thejay

Swinger
That is possible. In case you struggled to understand what I said because I don't know any of the technical terms, I have drawn a model of the two parts in the photographs I previously shared.
Drill Press.png
 
That is possible. In case you struggled to understand what I said because I don't know any of the technical terms, I have drawn a model of the two parts in the photographs I previously shared.
View attachment 380959
ProDesktop? The round lug should ride in the channel. The web between the concentric rings is the stop for it. The knurled knob should lock the rings to the plunging handle to set the depth, usually it’s unlocked and free to rotate, but you shouldn’t be able to rotate more than 360° when it’s unlocked. If it rotates freely more than that, the lug isn’t engaging the web, so something is broken, bent or wrongly assembled. Does the graduated ring rotate? Does the knurled knob lock it to the handle?
 

thejay

Swinger
Thanks for your reply.

Designed in SketchUp.

I thought that was what you were hinting at. When I turn the black knurled knob it sets the gauge, so when I turn the lever to drop the drill down, it moves with the handle to give a true indication of the depth being dropped to.

When everything is tightened, the handle can be rotated two or three times to the full extension of the drill. Each time the handle does a full rotation it does look like the metal pieces come into contact because the gauge moves slightly like it is knocking.

I did try rotating the gauge and retightening it but it makes no difference to stopping the handle from being rotated. I suspect that the pointy bit on the left component is slightly bent preventing it from engaging properly.

I don't know if anything is actually missing.
 
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The peg looks a bit sad... might have had it’s end broken off. Can you screw it out and replace it with something longer? Is the web bent or chipped?sounds like it’s almost working but not fully engaging.
 

thejay

Swinger
After further inspection and your last post, I decided to use a cold chisel and hammer to bend the peg back into shape. When I did this, it made a bit of a difference.

I then tightened the nut on the other side of the drill, like you said before, and it worked! Now I have a working depth stop. Although it took a while to get this sorted, thanks to your patience and explanation the drill works perfectly and I don't have to worry about making my own depth stop.

I didn't even know that this sort of depth stop existed.
 
This thread is like a danger f£ck, I have no interest in it, but keep coming back
 

thejay

Swinger
Okay, if you say so. All is well and Nimbus really helped me out with this one. I am extremely grateful.
 
This thread is like a danger f£ck, I have no interest in it, but keep coming back
Be honest - it was the mention of ‘cold chisel’ that drew you in: more ‘Marte’ than ‘Arte’...
 
Be honest - it was the mention of ‘cold chisel’ that drew you in: more ‘Marte’ than ‘Arte’...
The biggest thing I was issued was a toffee hammer


s-l300.jpg
 
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Hello there, I have an old machine that I bought from someone else a while ago. One of the things it appears to be missing is a depth stop, which is extremely frustrating.

Because it is so old, I can't find a manual for it and when I contacted Draper, they said that they did not have one either.

Is there anyone out there who has experience of dealing with this machine? Is there a built in depth-stop that I am missing, like in the handle? If not, is there an easy way to modify it so that a depth stop can be introduced into the handle somehow?

I know that there are two main types of depth stop, once is external and relies on nuts being turned and the other is built into the handle (although I don't know how this works).

On the handle, you can see there is a plastic cap in the middle but it is as tight as it goes.

In the third image, there is a nut, attached to a bolt inside the machine which points to the centre of the spindle. I wonder if there was support to be an external depth stop on this machine and if it was attached using that nut.









Hi, I'm sorry I can't help you with your problem, but could you help me with mine please? You no the belts on top? Are they your original ones has ares have gone but there not the original ones so I haven't got the number to replace them??
 

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